1950 B-2-D

[59bisquik]

I did it the lazy way... Fired the truck up while on jack stands and used a wire brush and then sandpaper on the end of a stick with the rotating drive shaft. Cleaned up really nice, then painted.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Well I tried using Evaporust on the driveshaft but that didn't work out.  Not sure if the sun hitting the shaft while it was being treated affected it or not.  So i guess back to the sand paper and scrubbing.  I did manage to clean all the rust off of the shock mounts both upper and lower.  Going to try and get those bolted up soon.  Then need to buy some shocks to throw on the front end.  Also need to get my steering box put back together and mounted.  Need to figure out how i'm going to mount the steering wheel since the threads got smushed when trying to remove the wheel.  Will probably just cut and reweld a piece on there.  Also been thinking about the wiring.  I got quite a bit of stuff to do....eesh.  I'm still chugging along!

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Well after a little bit of a hiatus, I'm back to wrenching on the truck.  I removed the old brake lines and to my surprise there was still some fluid in there.  Going to have the old rubber lines replaced with some stainless steel braided ones.  Also had the mastercylinder rebuilt some time ago but never installed it because I screwed up one of the bolt holes.  Thinking of jb welding it shut and then drilling and retapping it.  The other 2 bolt holes are still in great shape.  Still have to mount the brake and clutch pedals, clean up the drive shaft, electrial, fuel, brakes, cooling, wheels and tires, bodywork, paint.  Almost there. LOL

 

So Found out my truck used to be this awesome blue!  The interior looks like they just sprayed the whole thing in white paint.  I pulled the covers off to see what I was working with.  I'll eventually disassemble the doors to make sure everything is greased up and works fine.  The windows are hanging up and so are the door latch releases.

 

Going to blast the housing and get it all cleaned up.  Might have to send my gauges out to Keven to have him refurb for me.

 

Oh I also bought these new 4 post terminal junction blocks.  I wish I could have got the clear covers that go over them but can't seem to find them.  I'll keep looking.  Yes, 4 terminals since I do have fender lights going on this truck.

Edited June 12, 2017 by 1TonDirtyMopar

[Don Coatney]

I like your 4 pole terminal blocks. Where did you find them? JB weld has it's place but in my opinion using it to repair a master cylinder mount would not be my favorite place to use it.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

32 minutes ago, Don Coatney said:

I like your 4 pole terminal blocks. Where did you find them? JB weld has it's place but in my opinion using it to repair a master cylinder mount would not be my favorite place to use it.

I Picked those up from here:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/stud-junction-block-4-stud.html

Yea I know.  I plan on reinforcing the rear with a plate to make sure it's nice n tight.

Edited June 12, 2017 by 1TonDirtyMopar

[1TonDirtyMopar]

Would the braking system benefit from a proportioning valve to split the brake bias front to rear?

[Dozerman51]

Your doing well on getting the truck back on the road.  I see you have the Semi-Synchro. 4 speed tranny.  That's the same tranny I am going to install in my '41 Military 1/2 ton closed cab pick up. After 30 years of DC'ing the tranny on the truck, it will be nice to have 3rd and 4th gear synchronized with the added feature of them having Helical cut gears so they will be quiet and not have that whine to them like the straight cut gears.  Keep up the good work.

[RodFru2u]

Great to see you are back on your project. Life happens in between.breaks.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

On ‎06‎/‎14‎/‎2017 at 7:52 AM, RodFru2u said:

Great to see you are back on your project. Life happens in between.breaks.

Yeaup, it definitely does.  We got to meet up one of these days. 

I'm trying super hard to get my truck on the road by the end of the summer.   I'm pushing to make it happen.

 

DId some tearing down of the nose clip.  A few dents that need to be fixed down and the moustache bars need new mounting tabs on them. Going to remove one or two and try and get them duplicated.

 

Took apart the lights and decided to throw a coat of bedliner on the rear. Then just painted the inside lips black.  Going to try and get some "chrome" paint to maybe create a "reflector" for the bulb to shine off of.

Edited July 3, 2017 by 1TonDirtyMopar

[ggdad1951]

On 7/3/2017 at 9:44 AM, 1TonDirtyMopar said:

Took apart the lights and decided to throw a coat of bedliner on the rear. Then just painted the inside lips black.  Going to try and get some "chrome" paint to maybe create a "reflector" for the bulb to shine off of.

 

actually WHITE works better 

[1TonDirtyMopar]

On ‎07‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 6:03 AM, ggdad1951 said:

actually WHITE works better 

Would a gloss white work or should it be more of a satin/matte white?  I'll start taping the rest of the light up to avoid overspray.

Did a little rust removal with some evapo rust.  I think it came out great!  Just need to get a big tub to stick the whole pedal in.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hey Mike;

Good to see ya back at it.

Home Depot sells an inexpensive tub for mixing mortar etc......that is just the ticket.

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

When I was designing light boxes we always used a matte or flat white to avoid any reflection hot spots (one of may reasons silver/chrome paints are not the best IMO solution).  I'd go for a semi-gloss maybe.

[johnsartain]

On 12/16/2014 at 9:35 PM, 1TonDirtyMopar said:

Yeaup.  That's the one.  Ended up getting it for free so why not.  I guess the 48's 3spd will get bolted to that motor.

 

Thanks the guy i spoke to for the motor just had a chevy 350 installed in his truck and had this laying around.  He said that it ran strong with no issues.  It is a 3 on the tree trans but mentioned that the fork or forks were broken.  I'll be heading down there this Friday so wish me luck!

I know this is an old thread but for your and anyone else information here it is. You can adapt a NP435 from an 89 Dodge pickup fairly easy if you're not using a fluid drive. Use the Clutch kit for the 89 as well. you will have to use the release bearing from the 50 model though. The bearing retainer on the input side of the transmission will need to be turned down a 1/2 inch or so and the bolts replaced with Allen Bolts. I also re-drilled the bell-housing. I cut off bolts to fit the ones originally in the bell housing and welded then in place, the drilled and tapped the new holes in the right location for the NP435. The extension on the retainer is smaller than on the  one on the stock transmission. I used a piece of SCH40 pvc as a bushing and pressed it onto the bearing retainer. Works like a charm and a have a modern 4 speed transmission with synchronizers.

[1TonDirtyMopar]

On 07/06/2017 at 9:47 AM, Jeff Balazs said:

Hey Mike;

Good to see ya back at it.

Home Depot sells an inexpensive tub for mixing mortar etc......that is just the ticket.

Jeff

@Jeff BalazsThanks Jeff!  It feels good to be wrenching on it again.

I Have to get some paint so I'll check that out!  Thanks for the tip!

On 07/06/2017 at 10:01 AM, ggdad1951 said:

When I was designing light boxes we always used a matte or flat white to avoid any reflection hot spots (one of may reasons silver/chrome paints are not the best IMO solution).  I'd go for a semi-gloss maybe.

@ggdad1951THat makes sense.  Even the lights in the office have white behind them not the silver/chrome paint on them.

I'll buy a gloss and semi gloss and a matte and see which works better.

23 hours ago, johnsartain said:

I know this is an old thread but for your and anyone else information here it is. You can adapt a NP435 from an 89 Dodge pickup fairly easy if you're not using a fluid drive. Use the Clutch kit for the 89 as well. you will have to use the release bearing from the 50 model though. The bearing retainer on the input side of the transmission will need to be turned down a 1/2 inch or so and the bolts replaced with Allen Bolts. I also re-drilled the bell-housing. I cut off bolts to fit the ones originally in the bell housing and welded then in place, the drilled and tapped the new holes in the right location for the NP435. The extension on the retainer is smaller than on the  one on the stock transmission. I used a piece of SCH40 pvc as a bushing and pressed it onto the bearing retainer. Works like a charm and a have a modern 4 speed transmission with synchronizers.

Thanks @johnsartain

Even if it is an old thread great knowledge to be shared!

[johnsartain]

I got questioned once on using the pvc as a bushing. I works great. Most throwout bearings these days are coming out with ABS or softer plastic instead of the forged iron castings that they used to have so I don't get where they make the difference. Other guys have used a T5 tranny as a swap. Thats a good one too but the NP435 is a truck transmission where the T5 was used in Light trucks like the S10 and cars. They had heavy duty versions of the T5 used in Camaro's and Mustang's coupled with V8's but they are getting rare and the gear shift is totally in the wrong location being too far back on the tail shaft. Last thread I saw for using a T5 in a Model B was to swap the internals of the Heavy Duty T5 from the Camaro and Mustang into the one from an S10. There is a thread on here somewhere for the T5 swap details.