Recommendations for cleaning out the oil system?

[perrymedik]

I will have everything back together on my 49 P-18 in a few days, but since it has been sitting for over 5 years I want to clean out all the oil sludge that is no doubt lurking inside the motor and everywhere else before I try to crank this thing over for the first time (assuming foolishly that it will run right away, LOL!)

 

What is the best way to clean this all out.  If there is a way to flush the system without dismantling the motor that would be awesome!!

 

Also, I am considering using synthetic oil when I refill.  Any considerations to keep in mind with that?

 

Any recommendations would be appreciated!

 

Cory

[perrymedik]

I have the oil pan cleaned out and debunked.  Then I ground the rust spots off of the exterior, primered and painted and am getting ready to install today.

Since I am planning on putting cheap oil and transmission fluid in the system to clean out the system, and then change it out and install the new oil strainer, I was thinking of bolting the pan up without the gasket so that I don't have to buy another one when I unbolt it after the first Oil drain and Strainer replacement.  

Question: Would bolting it up without the gasket cause any problems?  How likely would it be for the motor running to cause oil to get slung outside of the Oil Pan?  I assume once I bolt it up with the gasket, when I take it off, I would need a new gasket set.  I don't plan on driving it as soon as the motor gets running because the brakes still need to be inspected and the brake lines filled and bleed.

Thanks!

Cory

[Don Coatney]

Clean the oil pan and use adhesive to glue the side pieces to the oil pan side only. Use grease on the other side and on both end pieces. By doing so you can re-use the gaskets. I have had my oil pan off about 3 times using this procedure. Also do not trim the ends of the end pieces.

 

[perrymedik]

I don't have that specific adhesive that your paper mentions, but I do have 3M 77.  Would it be safe to use that?

[Don Coatney]

Use whatever you are comfortable with.

[perrymedik]

Done!  Thank you!

[austinsailor]

If you're taking off the pan, you are already at 80% of the gunk. If you pull the valve covers off and flush/scrub that area you'll get most anything, and far more than running it with cheap oil/kerosene/ATF or whatever you planned.

What I've done on several that sat for years (like 30) is pull the pan and valve covers, clean as good as I can, then add rotella, run it for awhile. In each case after a half an hour or so smoke went away and they did fine. I think the modern detergent oil removes a lot of the crud in the rings and frees things up.

Edited October 28, 2014 by austinsailor

[perrymedik]

Cool! I put it all together. Time will tell!! Hopefully it won't be on there for months before I change it out (aka: can't get them motor started!!)

 

What is Rotella?  I'm not keen on pulling the valve covers.  I'm trying to get this thing back together!  I'm afraid if I take any more off I won't have an engine left! LOL!

[austinsailor]

Valve covers are simple, and there is usually a lot of gunk right inside there. With them off, wipe out all you can get, flush with the pan off, using a small brush and kerosene or something similar. Probably take you under an hour start  to finish.

 

Rotella is a high quality detergent oil by Shell, any good qualitydetergent  oil should do the same. It happens to be what I use.

 

I'm not sure if it helps, but at this point I always wipe some grease on the cam lobes to keep them lubricated until the motor is pumping and slinging plenty of oil.

[1941Rick]

Don....do you leave the end gaskets just as you see it in your photo......

[_shel_ny]

Also do not trim the ends of the end pieces.

 Quote from post 3

Edited November 8, 2014 by shel_ny

[JBNeal]

As for the oil pan gaskets, I had some heavy (yellow) wheel bearing grease left over from a farm trailer overhaul and used that as my adhesive as it was very tacky.  I then used a red lithium grease to the other gasket surfaces, and this has served well for multiple crankcase & valve cover gasket removals.

From what I have read here & there, synthetic oils only really benefit new engines with tight tolerances; otherwise, for the larger tolerances in these flathead engines, any store brand dinosaur oil will have more effective detergents in it than the engine oils that were available 50 years ago.  A good filter, sock or cartridge, will also assist the oil in removing contaminant from the system.  The minor modifications needed to assist in sludge prevention in the form of the 180 or 195 thermostat and the PCV system can also help keep the innerds clean in the long run

[perrymedik]

Car is running!  

When I put the oil in, I put a quart of AFT fluid in along with it.  How long should I go before I do the first oil change to get the cleaning oil/ AFT Fluid and any gunk out and put fresh oil in?

As I don't have the brake system checked out yet there will be no driving.  So run time wise at temp, how long?  I've already got about 30 minutes on it so far between last night and today.

Thanks!

[JBNeal]

I reckon the rule of thumb is to operate for 500 miles before the first oil change on break-in, which could be about 20 hours preferably with some loading to really heat up the internals to soften up the crud

[desoto1939]

Perry:

 

You state that you have no working brakes. Cna you state what is happening. So when you push the brake pedal does it go all the way to the floor board or do you at least get some sort of soft pedal. If you pump the brake pedal do you get a build up of pressure.

 

There could be a couple of things that need attention.

 

You could be low on brake fluid.  I am assuming that your have the old dot 3 brake fluid and not the silicone Dot 5. Do not mix the two they are not compatible..

The MC could need to be rebuilt since the car has sat so long

Check the resevior onthe MC to see if there is fluid in it.

The brake shoe might just be out of alignment.

The brake cylinders might be leaking and either rebuilt or replaced or have them resleved if they are badly pitted.

If the shoes are worn down then need to replace the shoes or reline the shoes if you have riveted brake lining this is easy to do.

After finfin out what is wrong then you will need to adjust the shoes to fit the brake drum.

Also might need to replace allthree rubber brake hoses.

 

Since you have the lockheed brake system that has the toe and heel adjustment you will need the AMMCO 1750 Brake gage to get the shoes properly adjusted.

 

I have the brake gage and you can contact me when you get to that point inthe project.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Cell 484-431-8157 home 610-630-9188

Valley Forge PA just outside of Philadelphia, PA

[JBNeal]

While working on the Subaru today, I needed to stick the water pump gasket to the pump body, so I moseyed up to the barn to fish out the yeller grease...it's quite thick

 

[Don Coatney]

Question on getting the grease. Is the mosey a learned gait or is it in the genes?

[Plymouthy Adams]

probably taken from the 40 years Moses was walking about...referenece to moving about aimlessly or slowly

Edited December 15, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[JBNeal]

I reckon a true mosey requires a slow somewhat steady pace coupled with looking towards the ground...ya never know whut ya might step into while out in the country:  rabbit hole, rattler, fresh pile...

[Frank Elder]

I reckon a true mosey requires a slow somewhat steady pace coupled with looking towards the ground...ya never know whut ya might step into while out in the country:  rabbit hole, rattler, fresh pile...

Farmer's daughter.........

Edited December 22, 2014 by Frank Elder