Saving Interior

[lwebb]

My 49 four door Plymouth Deluxe has a remarkable original interior. The only real damage is on the wood grain front windows where I imagine sweat from the passengers and driver caused them to wear away and rust.
I’d like to protect what’s left. Should I use regular car wax on the dash and other places where it’s still in pristine shape or is there a special product for this.

The headliner and upholstery are also original and in beautiful shape. There are a few small places where moths have removed the nap.

Is there something I can do to preserve the martial. Scotchguard? Any suggestions as always would be greatly appreciated. Can you still get the old terry cloth seat covers?

Lanny
Athens, GA

[Darbone85737]

Wow. That does look great.    I would keep the dash clean and waxed.  Can't help w/the cloth. Mine was redone in vinyl by a previous owner but I've love to see it back in the wool fabric

[51cambridge]

Id say no to Scotch guard and keep them clean and out of the sun

[lwebb]

Well, I love this car, Drove one same color same interior etc when in college and plan on making it my daily driver so I was just looking for ways to make it last longer. Has to be something I can put on it?

[desoto1939]

You could use a very soft ligquid was onthe dah. Rememer this is a painted dash with a wood grained effect.  Do NOT again DO NOT use any abrasive cleaner on the dash as this will remove the painted on graining.  Myabe a groit liquird polish and sealer but very light onthe pressure and buff out by hand not with a machione.

 

You could also  maybe remove the garnish molding as it is called and then spay the two window molding with a clear lacquer or polyurethane coating to keep what you have.  Sounds as if the graining has worn off becasue of the peoples arms and sweat and mositure on their arms have worn off the graining.  The garnish moildings can be regrained but it is very expensive.

 

The same thing has happened on my 39 Desoto and its from age and just plain wear and tear.

 

Rich HArtung

[lwebb]

Good idea on the garnish moldings. Yes the wood paint has worn away replaced with rust. Are their places thdt can match the wood look with the decal material you sometimes see on the outside of cars?

[Plymouthy Adams]

oh yeah..plenty of shops that will do that job...just go online and get a  few of their estimates...a Hemming's Motor New available at about any larger bookstore/stand will have a very good list and you may find one right next door...

[desoto1939]

cONTACT A COMPANY CALLED grain-it IN fLORIDA.  They are the ones that have trained all the guys on how to do the woodgraining on cars.  They also sell a kit for the average car owner that has the correct wood grain and the apprpopriate paints and graining stains.

 

You can regrain the garnish molding yourself. It is not hard to do but it taskes some practice.  I have done a couple of garnish molding with their kit and also cheaper that sending out to a professional and then you have the pride of sayoing you did it yourself.

 

Figure around 200-300 per garnish molding to be done by a professional and then you might not get the color match to be just like what is currently onthe car becasue of aging on your car. they can get close but might be off a shade ot two..

 

Rich HArtung

[Darbone85737]

Were it my car,  if  removal of the woodgrain was the result of normal use I'd leave it alone and call it "patina"  

Edited October 7, 2014 by Darbone85737

[Reg Evans]

Yes, clean it real well with lacquer thinner and clear coat them from a rattle can. I'm getting ready to do that to my '33. The clear coat brings back some of the wood grain and preserves the history.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Darbone85737, on 07 Oct 2014 - 5:28 PM, said:Darbone85737, on 07 Oct 2014 - 5:28 PM, said:

Were it my car,  if  removal of the woodgrain was the result of normal use I'd leave it alone and call it "patina"  

is this the manner in which your car is represented at present?  curious as to how many truly go the rusted look..

Edited October 7, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[deathbound]

That's a beautiful interior....hope you don't smoke.

[Tones52]

Lanny, I don't believe that interior is as good as you say it is. I think more photos are needed to prove it.

 

Seriously, I've seen the exterior photo of your '49 from your other post and it sure looks like a gem so more photos would be great.

 

I thought there's a Scotch Guard spray that's appropriate for wool fabrics (clothing & upholstery), but there may be other sprays out there that are safe for wools.

 

I know you're wanting to keep the upholstery out of the direct sunlight and if you have to be out and about during the day, then no harm to keep then covered with a blanket or towel. Maybe a visit to the fabric store can get you enough material to make your own terry cloth seat cover or a bedding flannel flat sheet might work.

 

Good luck and hope to see more photos.

[lwebb]

I've really gotten basted in the past when I didn't reply to a post where I was the original"OP." I can't get back on line everyday and if I don't immediately reply please don't take it as a lack of interest or respect for the time you took to reply. I DO REALLY appreciate it.

Well I smoked 40 years ago but no more and I will post more interior pictures when I get back home.

 

I've looked at the prices of some of the restoration places and for now , that's a good bit out of my price range. I have marked them though for future. So while I would prefer that the "rusted" look not be prominent, it will suffice to stop the progress for the time being. I'll take a picture of that as well.

 The trim around the front window has the beginning of rust where I'm guessing condensation dripped down on the defroster vent.

 

I am driving this now as my daily driver when in town though. My wife says I can't stops smiling. Besides that, It’s kicked my Tahoe out of the garage permanently so regularly no sun. 

 

A.L.F. I’m sure re-chroming is the preferred fix, but any suggestions for another stop gap measure for chrome? For the most part the chrome is in excellent shape but on some pieces small pin head bubbles have started to appear. I was told to used 2000 grit wet and dry the buff with a wad of aluminum foil and finish with car wax? Any products

[Plymouthy Adams]

my chromer told me that in cases like this if you are concerned and want to arrest that what is breaking down till the time you get it replated...paint it..including a buff up and clear coat...paint comes right off in the normal stripping process when they do chrome work..

 

be careful on your car for what is chromed..what is steel based verse monkey metal and that what is stainless.....cleaning lighly pitted and surface rust stained bumpers is easy with a bit f phosphoric acid and steel wool...when converted the pits are neutralized for the minute...stains gone and yes buffing with alumni foil will transfer some metal deposits to the pits giving a better look..this you then wax good..keep waxed...stainless you can usually get by with xxxx steel wool and also pot metal..the pot metal pits are your worse..usually this starts within..not much you can do there but clean it and wax seal or spray with clear..

Edited October 12, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[lwebb]

Just a quick post with Picts

[james49ply]

interior looks fantastic. I use the heavy "Indian" blanket and works fine and preserves what is underneath.

[The Oil Soup]

I wouldn't use lacquer thinner that may actually strip or soften the existing paint. Use something like paint thinner, enamel reducer or simple green to clean any residue off it before clear coating it. Clear lacquer may also wrinkle the current finish on there.

[Andydodge]

NO, NO.......don't use any sort of lacquer or paint thinner or anything like them near the paint.........speak to someone in the car detailing industry but do NOT use any sort of paint thinner.........that's a beautifully kept interior and as much as I hate the patina word I'd just clean and use a liquid polish very sparingly............made my day to see the pics..........andyd

[Reg Evans]

Huh, I just got done doing the dash on my 33 Plymouth. The wood grain was nearly invisible and very rusty/dusty looking. I wet sanded it with 1500 grit and then wiped it down with lacquer thinner to remove an oils or grease and then applied several coats of Duplicolor clear coat. Most of the grain came back and it looks 100% better. Been doing this for more than 30 years. The wood grain has been there so long that I would have a very tough time removing any of it with the lacquer thinner.

[lwebb]

James, I have a couple of really heavy beach towels that seem to be working.

As far as lacquer thinner goes, I used it on my 98 Avalon to try to get off over spray rom a rattle can. Took off the over spray  easily and didn't touch the original paint. I will try a little in an inconspicuous place first.

How hard is it to remove the seats? They need re-stuffing.