steering knuckle support

[Countryss]

If I remove the steering knuckle support where the spindle sits will the spring and control arms be affected? I need tonhave my kingpins and bushings pressed in

[Andydodge]

To have the stub axle kingpin bushes removed, replaced and reamed to suit the kingpin you take I, the stub axle off the steering knuckle support or spindle, leaving it attached at the top and bottom to the upper and lower arms, there is no change or effect on the springs etc........once the stub axle has the new bushes reamed to the kingpin size then its just a matter of installing the stub axle on the support with the thrust bearing and any shims and tapping the kingpin in.......of course there is a little bit more fiddlying around then this bland statement but you get the drift.............lol......if you have not touched the tierod ends or upper outer pins then there is no change to the front end alignment either, just an improvement in the general tyre wear due to kingpin slop removal.......lol,regards, andyd

[Countryss]

I want to have kingpins put in at the shop where the spindles will be machined while its off the car. Once thats complete I wont to be able to bolt the whole spindle on. Is that possible?

[Don Coatney]

The spindle with the king pin as pictured below must be assembled on the car. Cannot be assembled as a complete unit unless you disassemble the entire front suspension.

 

 

[Countryss]

Ok great so what is the proper way of pressing in the bushings once it gets machined? I dont want to swing on it with a hammer if I dont have to

[Don Coatney]

The bushings are pressed in and then reamed to a slip fit for the king pin.

[Countryss]

So I can bring the spindle with bushing to the machine shop and they can press and bore it so that the king pin would only have to be tapped In?

[Don Coatney]

yes

[Countryss]

Thanks

[Dave72dt]

Take the new pin with you. They will need it to properly ream the bushings to size.

[Andydodge]

There is no "machining" done on the king pin......the stub axle has bushes that must be pressed out, new ones pressed in and the new bushes reamed using the correct reaming tool........then the stub axle is installed onto the spindle with the kingpin holding it all together..........normally this is done on the car but if you undo the upper outer and lower outer pins then the spindle can be removed from the front suspension arms and the whole shebang taken to someone and the kingpins & bushes done on a bench.........seems like a lot more work to me..............andyd 

[James_Douglas]

I prefer to have a machine shop not ream the bushings unless they have a very good reamer with new blades.  I have had many of them reamed that came out too loose.

 

Find a shop that has a "Sunnen Machine" that they use to line hone things like connecting rods.  Some shops have "Long" Sunnen hones that can do the bushings in the spindle.  A line hone will give you a much better job than a reamer. 

 

Remember, any play in the bushings will mean less quality steering.

 

In my case the local machinist did not have the correct hone size for my spindles.  He had broken that one many years before and never replaced it.  I got one used off of ebay for $40 and gave it to him.  Now I get my spindles honed for free!

 

Good luck, James

[Countryss]

Will the spring need to be compressed andy To remove the whole thing?

[Andydodge]

If you want to take the spindle AND stub axle as a unit off then you have to undo the upper outer and lower outer pins which will require the lower arm to be supported to stop the coil spring pushing the arm when the lower outer pin is undone.....do you have a workshop manual for the car?.........YOU need to get one and read up on the front suspension BEFORE you start any work.......this is not a difficult job BUT does require a reasonable mechanical ability plus various hand tools such as open end & ring spanners, a socket set and equipment like at least one jack, a pair of good car stands, etc...........your question regarding the compression of the spring makes me a little nervous that you may not be fully conversant with whats actually required.....spring compression is usually a term that's used in relation to McPherson Strut style front suspensions and whilst technically the mopar front spring can be compressed to stop it expanding after the spindle pins are undone its a term that I would not have thought of particular reference to these front ends and that makes me wonder whether you maybe need to read up.........if I have misinterpreted your ability I apologise..............regards, Andy Douglas

[Niel Hoback]

   Andy and the rest of us are concerned for your safety. The coils are quite strong and will cause damage and personal injury if not controlled.  Study up on this suspension before you take anything apart to avoid an "explosive" situation.  

[Countryss]

Yea i do have the manual. From what I saw I believe that the steering knuckle support is what holds the upper and lower control arms. So my concern was that when I remove that the spring will be affected. Am I correct

[Don Coatney]

You do not need to remove the king pin support to replace the bushings in the knuckle. Why do you want to remove it?

 

[Countryss]

The tapered plug hole Is damaged as if the previous owner drilled it out . so I ordered a new arm so I can put it all together on a bench and then bolt it on as one piece

[Don Coatney]

Now I understand. That information would have been helpful early on.

[Countryss]

So I got the new arm and installed the bushings and tie rod. I removed the upright from the car. I attempted to take the old lower shock stud out and couldnt get it. Heated it up and it started to move and then it snapped. Didnt see any for sale on ebay or speedway or bernbaum. Any idea where I can get one? What would the difference be if I just used a grade 8 bolt?

[Andydodge]

have you got both pieces?........if so just take to an engineering shop and get them to machine one up on a lathe........due to the stepped shape I'm not sure whether a bolt would work anyway.......andyd

[DJ194950]

So I got the new arm and installed the bushings and tie rod. I removed the upright from the car. I attempted to take the old lower shock stud out and couldnt get it. Heated it up and it started to move and then it snapped. Didnt see any for sale on ebay or speedway or bernbaum. Any idea where I can get one? What would the difference be if I just used a grade 8 bolt?

Try speedwaymotors.com-shock mounts, new are avail two sizes as I remember

 

DJ

Edited June 9, 2014 by DJ194950

[Andydodge]

DJ's got a good point......I've seen them also in a Speedway catalog now that I remember........err.........what was I trying to remember?..........lol.............andyd

[Countryss]

Had a 1/2 stainless steel bolt lying around. Picked up two washers and two lock washers. Gonna try to get it all together this week. I did see the ones you guys said on speedway missed it on the first time I looked. Thanks

[Countryss]

All put back together. Steering feels so much tighter. Ended up using a grade 8 bolt for the lower shock mount. All I need now is a serious alignment. Thanks for the help all