Countryss

Just did mine. 5/16 all the way tank to carb. Got a 25'coil and had 3 connections at the tank, midway on rail, and at fuel pump

Checked them. Both have washers and both tight

Also yes there was fuel in intake upon removal

Took carb apart and everything looked fine. Needle and seat is there and float is in hinge. Put it all back and hit throttle twice and it started coming out again. Also this isn't coming from dash pot but from underneath where throttle is

Upon removal of top this is how I found it

Ok so green wire on starter goes to sisston choke, one blue wire goes from relay to relay, other blue wire goes from relay to distributor and then i lose it in harness, square top relay is connected directly to battery

Yes the carb has recently been rebuilt and cleaned. Swapping out the plugs, installing a pressure regulator to get me down to about 3.5psi, and opening up carb to see if there is anything that needs to be adjusted sounds like my course of action

So I have gotten around to taking some pictures for you guys. As you can also see there is fuel seeping out from beneath carb. This can be replicated with engine off and by solely moving throttle. This is a stromberg bxvd-3

I was asking what those parts served as. Also letting you know that car was converted to 12v neg so you have a background on the modifications

Just converted car to 12v so that was in while car was 6v generator. I have fluid drive transmission

Ordered the phonelic kit and extended manifold bolts. So while waiting for those parts to come in i started tinkering with some other stuff. I see the sqaure top relay is for the starter but what is the round one controlling?

Gonna have to check tomorrow. Carb just got rebuilt and tested from a company in Cali.

Ok gonna order the phonelic spacer and extended bolts from the stromberg website and try that out

It is a fluid drive

Currently have a 46 dodge that has been recently converted to 12v neg. The issue that is occurring was happening before and after conversion. Temp reaches 160 idles fine and around 20 to 25 min after driving it will shut at idle. Dont really see an issue turning it over after it shuts. If I keep giving it a little gas it will run at idle. Any thought?

I'm sorry meant to put vintageautogarage.com yes it was a bit pricier than getting part by part at a supply store but I wanted everything I needed in one package with super clear instructions and that's exactly what they delivered.

Just did this conversion today. Bought the kit from vintage auto parts.

I don't recall the bore size that was supplied in the kit. The new bore size was 1 1/8. Raybestos 36306

I purchased adapter brackets and master cylinder kit from Roger a little before christmas this year. Everything arrived well packaged and in a timely manner. I just did my conversion a week ago and ran into a couple of problems. The bracket he sent did not match up on the spindles. The job came to a halt until we figured out what was going on. My mechanic called Roger who he had previously dealt with and explained to him the situation. After a few calls back and forth Roger figured out that his guy had picked the wrong brackets off the shelf. Amazingly, Roger overnighted the new brackets from Oregon to NY and arrived the next morning at 8:30am. The new brackets went on with no issue. Secondly, the master cylinder he sold me for my 46 dodge did not clear the shift linkage. My mechanic was able to find and use a different unit that fit better but stuck up in the floor pan a little more. I called Roger and explained the situatuon. He had no problem having me return to him both products. All in all his customer service was amazing. Roger is a knowledgeable stand up guy. Thank you for your services.

All put back together. Steering feels so much tighter. Ended up using a grade 8 bolt for the lower shock mount. All I need now is a serious alignment. Thanks for the help all

Had a 1/2 stainless steel bolt lying around. Picked up two washers and two lock washers. Gonna try to get it all together this week. I did see the ones you guys said on speedway missed it on the first time I looked. Thanks

So I got the new arm and installed the bushings and tie rod. I removed the upright from the car. I attempted to take the old lower shock stud out and couldnt get it. Heated it up and it started to move and then it snapped. Didnt see any for sale on ebay or speedway or bernbaum. Any idea where I can get one? What would the difference be if I just used a grade 8 bolt?

The tapered plug hole Is damaged as if the previous owner drilled it out . so I ordered a new arm so I can put it all together on a bench and then bolt it on as one piece

Yea i do have the manual. From what I saw I believe that the steering knuckle support is what holds the upper and lower control arms. So my concern was that when I remove that the spring will be affected. Am I correct