Robert Thornton Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) am putting jeep rear axel on my pilothouse I need some advice. While removing springs I wont to take the two small springs on all four spring sets. what I need to know is should I make steel blocks the same thickness to keep same ride height or would the inch or so even be noticeable . I am a big fellow sometimes it can get a little tight under the truck. And I do like the original look. I valve your good advice Robert T P.S. would the spacer make springs week or sag. Edited March 31, 2014 by Robert Thornton Quote
pflaming Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 I removed the 2nd from the bottom all the way around and the ride improve significantly as did the cornering. But it did lower the truck about 2" which I like. I would think the spacer would put a lot of stain on the leaf above but this is only a GUESS. I would GUESS a spacer at the Axle might be OK. Quote
Dave72dt Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 Removing two leaves from the spring pack reduces the load capacity of the remaining pack which of course would mean the body would sit lower regardless of adding a spacer or not. Adding a spacer to either lower ( lowering blocks )or raise a spring pack increases the leverage the axle has against the springs and may increase spring wrap and wheel hop. You may be able to compensate for some of the body drop with taller tires and perhaps stronger shocks for the increase in body roll. Quote
pflaming Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 Dave, is it a fair statement that body wrap and wheel hop are caused by speed and load weight? If so then a vehicle used as a hobby driver or even as a daily driver on modern roads may not experience spring wrap. Is that a fair conclusion? Quote
Dave72dt Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 Sure, they're factors in the amount of wrap you get as is the amount of torque you can apply and how well the tires bite. All acceleration and braking will wrap the leaves. Driven as a cruiser, you may never notice it. Quote
Robert Thornton Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Posted March 31, 2014 (edited) do I understand you took just the 2nd from bottom. I need to do the same I don't wont to drop to low ill put back the shorter one on bottom. was really surprised how much play in spring hangers, when axel was removed could move side to side about 2 in or so. Was changing hangers anyway already have new ones from Roberts. this photo is why I wont better brakes. install disc kit from old daddy also Edited March 31, 2014 by Robert Thornton Quote
pflaming Posted March 31, 2014 Report Posted March 31, 2014 2nd from the bottom? YES. With all the leaves loose, I then sanded each and coated with silicone before bolting them back together. How much that helps I do not know, I figured it couldn't hurt. I put a fully built flat head engine in the back, just a tad forward of the axle and the front did NOT come up and it road like a Chrysler town car, so the springs still have plenty of 'lift' for my use. It's a bit of work but well worth it in my opinion. Quote
Robert Thornton Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Posted March 31, 2014 Paul did you paint outside of springs after putting back together and would never size work also I soaked with p.b. blaster for months could not believe how much rust came out. could you show pic of your truck stance. I have 16 in wheels. on my b3b Quote
pflaming Posted March 31, 2014 Report Posted March 31, 2014 I did NOT paint or coat the outside of the springs. i'm not engineer, but since the leafs are to give, why would one want to paint them, they are designed to MOVE. This is my favorite pre-fire picture. It shows how the tire tops are close to the fender openings. I have 235 75 R 15's on in that picture. The truck came down about 2". Quote
Robert Thornton Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Posted April 1, 2014 (edited) little progress springs ware a lot more than you might think deep in prints where I removed spring rear end in front b3b back jeep. looks like about 3/4 in shorter on both sides I wont see that much difference could use spacers on wheels would have to get longer lug bolts. Edited April 1, 2014 by Robert Thornton Quote
pflaming Posted April 1, 2014 Report Posted April 1, 2014 Interesting imprints.yet, I don't think those impact ride or driving. Mine were only cosmetic so my truck was a city truck. I remember vividly taking my springs apart. I never want to do that again. Those leafs get heavy after a while. Looks like you have it well under control. I wish you well. Paul Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 1, 2014 Report Posted April 1, 2014 I did NOT paint or coat the outside of the springs. i'm not engineer, but since the leafs are to give, why would one want to paint them, they are designed to MOVE. Are you the same guy who a month ago suggested that the spring pack should be welded solid as the only movement was in the 3-4 inches from the shackle? Quote
pflaming Posted April 1, 2014 Report Posted April 1, 2014 "touche"! That's what happens when a forum allows a former English teacher to try and fix old cars. The best advise I've tried to learn and practice is "don't mess with mother nature"; i.e., learned people engineered these cars so be careful what you change. Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 1, 2014 Report Posted April 1, 2014 "touche"! That's what happens when a forum allows a former English teacher to try and fix old cars. The best advise I've tried to learn and practice is "don't mess with mother nature"; i.e., learned people engineered these cars so be careful what you change. What specific forum granted you allowance to fix old cars? You did that on your own and you must own up to the responsibility. Quote
pflaming Posted April 2, 2014 Report Posted April 2, 2014 Which I do. I make quite a few mistakes, but that's a whole lot better than wearing out a Lazy Boy! I'd rather wear out my knees than have calluses on my buns. I haven't broken down on the road yet! Quote
Robert Thornton Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Posted April 9, 2014 I have new rear end mounted it went grate easy for one man. One thing I would suggest to do I do not have a welder so when I talked to a man that builds utility trailers to get right perches hi said if would just put the perches on and tighten the u-bolts real tight you can drive to his shop and weld perches then. this worked well because you can still loosening and make adjustments .I have a question about angle my motor and trans set at 0 on meter so I set rear at o also I forgot to check angle of driveshaft before removing old one. I did check motor and trans and rear they were at 0 also. The only thing that bothers me is all picks of Cherokee brakes the master cylinder sets at 12:00 after I set at 0 deg. like old one the cylinder is leaning to 11:00 could some one tell me what angle the old drive shaft is or if you have installed jeep what is your driveshaft angle. after 15 years I have found a pilot someone restoring a 50 b2b near me they are looking for good cab 5 window and doors and floor boards or good parts truck they are willing to travel for good parts. Quote
The Oil Soup Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 The angle of the driveshaft isn't important as long as the trans and rear are the set the same. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 The angle of the driveshaft isn't important as long as the trans and rear are the set the same. while to most degrees in phasing that is true but in fact it is a consideration...x angle of the driveshaft will limit the very speed it can effectively operate.. SHAFT RPM OPERATING ANGLE 5000 3.25° 4500 3.67° 4000 4.25° 3500 5.00° 3000 5.83° 2500 7.00° 2000 8.67° 1500 11.5° Quote
Robert Thornton Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Posted April 20, 2014 Thanks just what I needed Robert Quote
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