Started the teardown, and now the build up.

[casper50]

Okay finally got a couple of days to start the teardown on my 47 dodge 3 window.  Nothing too amazing so far.

Edited March 7, 2016 by casper50

[casper50]

some more

[casper50]

motor was stuck and when I bought it the PO told me that two cylinders had no compression.  So I figured head pull to check things out was in order.

[casper50]

Put PB blaster and some Marvel oil down the cylinders a week ago.  Seemed to do the job.  Turned over by hand on the fan when I got the sheet metal out of the way.  Still had one valve stuck.  Worked it a bit and it started working also.

[sig]

makes me happy to see someone in the same predicament as me !...sorry, it just does  ...whats the grand plan....?

[casper50]

Mostly keep it stock.  Change the brakes to disc on all 4.  Dual carbs split exhaust.  maybe weld the rear fenders on.  Other than that stock.

[sig]

weld the rears on....I´m pretty convinced about doing the same.to keep the joints tight etc.I can´t think of many reasons why they will need to be removeable from now on?..what are your reasons?..if anything the existance of the double layers cases more rot

[casper50]

To be honest it's just the way they look when the seam is filled in.  The whole rearend just flows so well.

[jcmiller]

I'll be watching this with interest.  I have a '46 3-window that has similar issues. 

[kented]

coming along nicely! 

[TodFitch]

Mostly keep it stock.  Change the brakes to disc on all 4.  Dual carbs split exhaust.  maybe weld the rear fenders on.  Other than that stock.

Interesting the different takes people have on "mostly keep it stock".

[Don Coatney]

Interesting the different takes people have on "mostly keep it stock".

I thought I was the only one that noticed that.

[fstfish66]

subscribed

[casper50]

^{Not much progress.  Trying to get the body off.  Found 6 bolts/studs on each side.  the parts book shows 9 would that be for the sedan?  The metal sleeves that the bolts go through seems to have rusted to the mounts.  I have the most of the bolts out or at least the nuts off but can't get any movement at all.}

 

 

[knuckleharley]

I thought I was the only one that noticed that.

I think they mean not modify anything that can't be easily changed back if the next owner wants a restored ride.

 

Or at least that is what I am thinking when I say similar things.

 

Anything can be changed back,but the key word is "easily".

[knuckleharley]

^{Not much progress.  Trying to get the body off.  Found 6 bolts/studs on each side.  the parts book shows 9 would that be for the sedan?  The metal sleeves that the bolts go through seems to have rusted to the mounts.  I have the most of the bolts out or at least the nuts off but can't get any movement at all.}

Then you obviously still have bolts with nuts still on them. You might start discovering where they are by taking something like a short piece of 1x6 pine and using it as a lever between the body and the chassis to see if you can get it rocking any. Once you do,it should be easy for someone watching to see where the rocking stops and that will be where the hidden bolts are.

 

I say 1x6 pine as a lever because it's soft and likely to break before you can put enough pressure on it to harm any of the sheet metal. The idea is to use the least force possible to find where the hidden bolts are.

 

It would also be helpful for you to post photos showing us where they were when you do find them.

[casper50]

From front to rear right side

 

 

[casper50]

^{next 3}

[casper50]

had to do a 3rd reply

 

[_shel_ny]

You could make your pictures smaller for posting. Detail in nice on some items, but sometimes is overkill.

Yours are not horribly large, but could be smaller. We have had them waaaaaaaaaaay bigger.

 

Smaller pics allow others to view the whole pic without moving it side to side, and up and down. Also makes it

easier to click to the next one when not larger than full screen.

 

Smaller pics allow you to add more pics in each post.

 

Also, with large pics you may run out of allowed space on this site, and may have to go into ''manage attachments"

to delete some before you can continue to post more.

 

You can make copies of the pics you want to post, and keep the originals if you want large detailed pics for your own use.

 

Not telling you what you have to do, just a suggestion that you may find helpful

[DCurrent]

I have a hard time posting pictures myself. I'd post more if I didn't find it difficult. I'm likely doing something wrong bc I see others have no issue it seems.

 

On subject, casper I'm surprised that you are able to back any bolts out with your mounts in the state they are. As you take a bolt or nut off try to get a little space between the mount you just loosened making sure it is free one bolt at a time. Slide a putty knife between the body and frame making sure they are separate. All of the mounting points of the body will likely be on the outside of the frame. Take care not to bend the mount or destroy the underside of the body as best as you can. What are your plans after the body is separated from the frame? What will you be supporting the body with after the frame is removed? Body rotisserie? When I see the pictures of your body mounts it gives me concern that your body floor may be weak. Is the floor fairly solid?

[casper50]

the floor is pretty good.  I've also welded in bracing.  Most of the rust is the inner rocker panel and the mounts.  I'll be sitting the body on a platform made for it while I finish the frame, engine and running gear.  I can get the inner panels but I'll most likely have to make the mounts.

[DENISONS 1946 D24]

on the pass side where the spare tire bracket is there one there ?

[casper50]

yes.  also one in the middle of the trunk and a 2nd one 8 inches inside the A pillar both sides.  It's off.  Photo later. 

[casper50]

as promised