1oldtruck Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 Ok, here's my dilemma. I've had an oil leak for the last few weeks and I traced it to the oil filler pipe. The oil leaks from where the pipe fits into the crankcase. Now, I know that I don't have too much oil so I'm thinking that the oil splashes around while driving and leaks out and runs along the crankcase and drips to the ground. Was there a gasket or extra sleeve that held the pipe firmly in place? I don't want to make something that would deteriorate and melt and fall into the crankcase. My filler pipe is a little loose. Any suggestions? Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 When I first got my truck the filler tube fit loosely too. I dug around in some old plumbing fittings and found a reducer that I could use as a forming spud. You could use something else......just needs to be something with a taper that will slide into the tube and snug up. The idea is to slightly expand the tube until you get a good interference fit. Once I got a good fit I slipped a heavy o-ring over the tube then put a little permatex on the tube and tapped it into place. It does not leak and the o-ring helps to keep water etc... out. Hope this helps. Jeff Quote
P15-D24 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 Pull the tube and look for cracks, There should be a brass flare fitting on the block, and the the steel oil tube should have the mating flare fitting. Quote
NiftyFifty Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 I pretty much did the same as Jeff, I flared out the engine side of the tube and then put a large o-ring on it with some ultra black rtv silicone. Hasn't leaked since then! Quote
JBNeal Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 I've got access to a blacksmith anvil, and the horn on that old iron flares out the filler pipe perfectly. But more common materials can open up the tube diameter: using a couple of pliers or almost-closed crescent wrenches can be used to work the metal outwards, or whittling a 2x2 down to a taper as a forming tool, maybe clamping a round bar in a bench vise and peening the tube over it...all ya need is for the tube OD to be a hair less than the crankcase hole ID. I have not needed to use RTV on the tubes I've worked over, but it won't hurt, and if it's a tight fit, ya won't need but to smear the RTV thin on the tube surface for it to work. Quote
1oldtruck Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks. I plan on working on it tonight if possible. I'll let you know how I do. Matthew Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 6, 2014 Report Posted February 6, 2014 Swedge it out a little. Should be a snug fit Quote
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