Small engine gurus Primer Button tube

[greg g]

Since weather is on everybody's radar this AM, I have a question about the tube from the primer button to the carb. On my snowblower it goes to a separate nipple on the carb.  It appears as the mice have chewed it as there is a hole in it between the button and the carb.  It is in a place where I can not easily replace it. (without removing the air cowl) 

 

My question is will this suck air when the engine is running leaning out the mix???  If so my plan is to just plug it like an unused vacuum line until I get around to removing the flywheel cover.

[Don Coatney]

Not sure if it will suck. But if the chewed hole is accessable you may be able to splice it using a plactic barbed fitting like the one pictured but a straight one not a "T".

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

^{on the primer...there is an inlet and an outlet..and the carb has an inlet and an outlet...loop is from tank to primer to carb to tank return.. by-passing the primer still has the necessity of a completed lop..depending on what  line to the primer was chewed up if you can transfer your fuel inlet to the carb direct...you may have to replace the lines anyway....on many models the line run under the flywheel but through a closed channel making replacing the line as simple feed through process...look to see if you can move the one on one end and see it moving on the other side..if so..just snake it through..}

[greg g]

Well I broke down and pulled the flywheel cover.  This primer is just an air pump that pressurizes the float bowl, so I got a new piece of mouse fodder.  I had to take the carb off again and rod out some orifices with more wire.  Got it running but now my tickle valve is leaking.  Guess when it runs out of gas, I will take the float bowl off again and remove and plug the tickle thing with a small nut and screw and an O ring.

[Mark D]

I was at lowes this evening and saw they carry replacement plastic tubing. And if your married to a nurse, they also have access to copious amounts of the stuff which is regularly thrown out. I've got a life time supply of the stuff thanks to my honey.

[greg g]

Uh, I have been looking for a source of surgical tubing to re power some of the sling shots my father made over the years.  He always used the tan colored stuff two or three pieces per side. I also came a cross a couple cigar boxes of ball bearings that he uncaged from worn out ones replaced at his workplaces.  Got a hankering to do some chip monk control this coming spring.

 

By the way the snow blower now starts and runs, and I discovered the leaking gas was not from the tickle/drain but from pin holes in the float bowl it self.  So it will need to come off again for some medicated goo while I see if I can source a new one. Another victim of ethanol. 

Edited December 15, 2013 by greg g

[55 Fargo]

Greg, do yourself a favor, and install a shut off valve from tank hoseline to carb. i did this with my 1973 John Deere, and couldn't be happier. I once started to have the float bowl leaking, in middle of blizzard clean up, was able to control fuel to carb, thus allowing machine to finish the job. I shut off fuel supply to carb after every use......

[greg g]

That is on my list. will be checking out tractor supply, or one of the other small engine places later today.  

[Plymouthy Adams]

I usually find the special tubing only at the swap meets....but stuck out at the last two events...I am out of stock currently..I try to keep a bit on hand at all times..it is about a dollar a foot

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

I am not sure on this but somehow doubt the surgical tubing is ethanol fast   IF that tubing was pre ethanol times (where ALL gas is mixed with like now).  Dad had a snow blower that the tubing just  looked like it melted from the inside out.  Replaced with newer style,all good since