Rebuilt my carb...still runs rough!

[53dodgekustom]

Hi folks!

 

I have a 53 Dodge with a stock 230 six with a rebuild as of 3k miles ago. It's been sitting for the last three years and I just recently got it going again.

 

The carb leaked everywhere and it ran rough at part steady throttle. I remember it running like this before it sat as well.

 

I rebuilt the carb and lapped all the gasket surfaces. It does't leak at all anymore so that's good! Float level seemed good too. 

 

I put it back on and attempted to fire it up with no anvil. I have a 54 Dodge service manual and it says to beck out the idle mixture screw 1 turn for a good starting point. My car needed it backed out quite a bit more to run right. So, now i have steady smooth idle and no leaks. 

 

However, I took it for a spin and it still runs rough when trying to keep a steady speed or trying to accelerate slightly. If the throttle is punched or if even hit enough to gain some speed it picks up and go's wonderfully. But as soon as it plains out it starts sputtering.

 

I checked all six plugs before I took the carb apart and they looked pretty good. Maybe slightly slightly lean but nothing radical. I haven't checked the timing or the points gap yep but I know I had everything adjusted before it sat and it did the sputtering back then too.

 

The car in question.

 

 

Carb rebuild in process.

 

 

The carb back in place.

 

 

Hopefully tomorrow I can check the timing and the points. I am thinking something with the carb isn't right. 

 

Any ideas would be appreciated. 

 

Thanks!

[greg g]

I would do a compression test, then put a vacuum gauge on it.  sounds like there may be a vacuum leak some where.  Is your automatic choke working properly?

[53dodgekustom]

Automatic choke was accidentally hooked up to 12 volts at one time and it starting pouring smoke out of it. I just unhooked it. The linkage is hooked up but the choke just stays open. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Also check for bad/rubbing wires in the distributor and condition of the points/ condensor, cap and rotor.

[53dodgekustom]

So do I hook up the vacuum gauge to the advance or the carb or what? It does sound like a vacuum leak. My dad doesn't have one but I can buy one tomorrow. I'm assuming they come with all kinds of adapters.

[greg g]

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

 

 

It gets connected to the intake manifold.  Those of us with vacuum wipers can just connect it there. From your picture I can not tell if your manifold has the connection, since your car has electric wipers, it may never have been drilled and taped.  

 

 

 

 

Edited November 12, 2013 by greg g

[38plymouth]

I have had this happen two times. The first time was after a carb rebuild and the new needle was a different length causing the float to be off starving the engine. The second time happened to me recently after swapping out a head. This time it turned out to be the timing was off. I would start with the float level.

[50 coupe]

Can't help with the carb, I sent mine to a re-builder but awesome looking Boxer you got there. What year?

[navyboy]

Where did you get your rebuild kit thinking of doing mine also was it difficult, have instructions online one could follow.

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

you have a can of carb cleaner?  run at high idle,,spray carb cleaner on every possible area of vacuum leak , even sides of carb, swivel points of butterflies etc., base of carb, intake to block area.  If you dont know what your listening for, quick squirt it in top of carb.  The tune will change real quick if you find the right spot.

[MarkAubuchon]

My two cents.  Having had lots of carb issues over the years. When you take them apart, especially with the description you gave.  The carb is still slightly clogged.  If it was mine I would pull it back apart, disassemble, remove all of the parts and the acces plugs (aluminum) get a light and a piece of piano wire and make sure they are clear. Once you route them out, spray with carb cleaner and then blow them out. (dont forget about the ball bearing)

[53dodgekustom]

Found the problem!! The timing was to retarded. The more I advance it the better it runs!! Going to get my mag base and indicator from work tomorrow to time it properly. Can't see anything with the timing light. Does anyone know if a 0-1in indicator will have enough stroke? Or should I borrow my coworkers 1-2in?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Make sure your point gap is correct before timing the engine.

[53dodgekustom]

 

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

 

 

It gets connected to the intake manifold.  Those of us with vacuum wipers can just connect it there. From your picture I can not tell if your manifold has the connection, since your car has electric wipers, it may never have been drilled and taped.  

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the help greg g. I haven't been on here in 4 years but I instantly recognized your avatar from way back. Glad your still on here sharing your wealth of knowledge!

 

 

I have had this happen two times. The first time was after a carb rebuild and the new needle was a different length causing the float to be off starving the engine. The second time happened to me recently after swapping out a head. This time it turned out to be the timing was off. I would start with the float level.

Yep it was the timing.

 

Can't help with the carb, I sent mine to a re-builder but awesome looking Boxer you got there. What year?

Thanks! 1971 R60/5 I also have an 84 R100RS. Sweet bikes. That one was my grandpa's.

 

Where did you get your rebuild kit thinking of doing mine also was it difficult, have instructions online one could follow.

From Robert's motor parts. Once you take it apart it's really simple. Just cleaning mostly. 

 

you have a can of carb cleaner?  run at high idle,,spray carb cleaner on every possible area of vacuum leak , even sides of carb, swivel points of butterflies etc., base of carb, intake to block area.  If you dont know what your listening for, quick squirt it in top of carb.  The tune will change real quick if you find the right spot.

That's the first thing I did tonight and I discovered that I had no vacuum leaks. Then I moved to the distributor then messed with the timing and dicovered it was to retarded.  

[53dodgekustom]

Make sure your point gap is correct before timing the engine.

Good thinking. And considering that the head is as thick as it is I might as well just borrow the 1-2in indicator.. 

[Tom Skinner]

Correct Order:

Set Points.

Check Dwell.

Set Timing.

Connect Vacumn Gauge Set Carburator.

Badda Bing - Badda Boom.