zephyrland Posted October 1, 2013 Report Posted October 1, 2013 Hi, I have recently gotten my d24(with a p24 engine and carter b&b carb) up and running. Thing is I haven't gone more than a mile from my house yet. After the engine has been on the road for a bit and warmed up, I start having what seems like fuel starvation problems. If I lay on the accelerator the engine acts like it is running out of gas. I have rebuilt the carb, but in all honesty, it was my first carb rebuild. Float levels and accelerator pump might not be calibrated very well at all. but my Bro is a real life mechanic and he handled the idle speed and other screw on the outside, so I feel like they're alright. So, the bro said he would rebuild the carb for me, but I was just curious if there was some other explanation for my current issues. Quote
greg g Posted October 1, 2013 Report Posted October 1, 2013 (edited) check this thread look at the flow test as detailed in post 19 of the thread. http://p15-d24.com/topic/33876-fuel-pump-or-vapor-lock/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Bflow#entry341018 Edited October 1, 2013 by greg g Quote
De Soto Frank Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 Sounds like fuel=-supply issues ( pump, lines, tank )... Quote
zephyrland Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Posted October 2, 2013 well i did just find two dozen tiny holes in my tank..... Sounds like fuel=-supply issues ( pump, lines, tank )... Quote
lheadandy Posted October 5, 2013 Report Posted October 5, 2013 I dont know if this will help but... I had all kinds of fuel problems with my 47 dodge coupe. Every time I took it out on the road (on the road mark you) it would run out of gas with the tank full and would not restart. So, drag it back home. Sometimes without doing anything to it the bloody thing would, as if by magic start and idle just fine! Checked everything found nothing. BUT the fuel pump was new so decided to get the old one out. The mistake was mine I had put on a post 49 pump the type with the riveted on shoe that contacts the ecentric on the cam. What was happening was the pump push rod was going too high in the housing and was getting wedged against a casting web inside the housing right up inside, whereupon the pump stopped pumping and the engine just stopped, never at the same time or distance from home but always at high demand for gas. Sometimes it came unwedged on the tow home and would restart and sometimes not. Have you looked at the fuel pump? and is it the right one? 1947 dodge large ecentric, no shoe pump 1949 up dodge smaller ecentric, shoe on pump. Thats what I have found. 1 Quote
zephyrland Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Posted October 6, 2013 I now have a box of fuel pumps. I think it's time to start swapping them around. I added an inline fuel filter and already noticed my fuel flow is minimal to say the least. Quote
Young Ed Posted October 6, 2013 Report Posted October 6, 2013 How are the fuel lines? Even a tiny pinhole will allow it to suck air instead of fuel. Quote
zephyrland Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Posted October 6, 2013 I haven't seen any liquid come out of the fuel lines. But that doesn't mean I've looked in the right areas. Quote
lheadandy Posted October 6, 2013 Report Posted October 6, 2013 I read somewhere that you have a 53 engine. that would be a small ecentric cam. If youve got an early type pump the effect might be not enough pump rod travel and so no enough fuel volume or perhaps pressure. I knew a fellow in miami who sold his De Soto for this reason. It was a coupe and he loved it, I didnt have the heart to tell him the pump story. Quote
zephyrland Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Posted October 6, 2013 I've been considering an auxiliary electric pump one way or the other. But I keep hearing horror stories of that modern pump whistle sound coming from the back of the car, and that scares me off. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 6, 2013 Report Posted October 6, 2013 a properly mounted electronic/electric fuel pump has never been a noise issue in all the years I have been installing them..the key is in the isolation from the frame when mounted..do that right..you will not even know it is there.. Quote
zephyrland Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Posted October 6, 2013 a properly mounted electronic/electric fuel pump has never been a noise issue in all the years I have been installing them..the key is in the isolation from the frame when mounted..do that right..you will not even know it is there.. I'd like to see how you hook them up. You know, for inspiration. Quote
zephyrland Posted October 7, 2013 Author Report Posted October 7, 2013 I read somewhere that you have a 53 engine. that would be a small ecentric cam. If youve got an early type pump the effect might be not enough pump rod travel and so no enough fuel volume or perhaps pressure. I knew a fellow in miami who sold his De Soto for this reason. It was a coupe and he loved it, I didnt have the heart to tell him the pump story. Because my grandfather constantly tinkered with and modified his cars, it's entirely possible I don't have the right fuel pump in this car. But here's some photographs! Also poorly lit. Quote
lheadandy Posted October 20, 2013 Report Posted October 20, 2013 I would say that is a pre 49 pump, no shoe you see. Have you had any joy with the running yet? Just out of curiosity, what is your engine number, and does it have the extra water passage 'hump ' at the front of the cylinder head? Quote
54Illinois Posted October 21, 2013 Report Posted October 21, 2013 If you have a fuel filter, make sure it is in right. Quote
hendo0601 Posted October 21, 2013 Report Posted October 21, 2013 I am running a small electric pump in my windsor, and with the rubber isolators on it I can barely hear that thing run, I mean I reallllllllly have to listen for it. How do you have your fuel lines run? Are they getting kinda close to the exhaust at all? You may be experiencing vapor lock where the fuel in the lines/bowl will begin to boil and evaporate when the engine gets hot. This causes all kinds of headaches from stalling/surging/bucking and extended cranking times waiting for cold fuel to get into the lines and fill the bowl. You may consider either wrapping an insulation around the fuel lines to keep them cool or routing them away from the exhaust and making sure the line isnt resting on anything that transmits heat i.e. cylinder head. Quote
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