still over heating

[Guest Tavis Miller]

I posted awhile back about my 47 d-24 overheating. It was suggested that I check the water dist. tube. Well, a few months later I finally got around to it. Yep, she was clogged. So I replaced it. But now I'm still overheating. When I bought the car from the guy he had put a new radiator, waterpump and freeze plugs in it. I just put the tube in and a new thermostat. Overheated with and without. I flushed her, but maybe she has really bad blockage or something. I'm not thinking to straight right now as I have been up since 4 in the am for work. Thanks for the help. Have a good holiday weekend!

Tavis

[Reg Evans]

I had one where the ports between the head and block were clogged. I rodded them out and all was cool.

[Dennis Hemingway]

At my feet in this photo you can see some of the junk that came out of my engine. After we removed all of the freeze plugs and the water dist. tube, we stuck the wand of the power washer in the block and had a lot more junk come out of the engine.

Dennis

[Guest P15-D24]

You need to pull all the freeze plugs and clean it out.

[Guest Tavis Miller]

yeah, I got coolant to come out of the block drain. I guess I'm gonna have to pull them freeze plugs and try to blow more crud out. But i think I'm gonna wait for it to cool down a little. I think we hit 90 today in Delaware, plus I gotta get ready for trip to beach. Yay traffic!

[55 Fargo]

Okay lets go at this step by step. Now it's overheating, what temp does the gauge read, is it working and fairly accurate. Does the rad boil over, when and under what circumstances. Or is it running just hot after a run when she is warmed up, is it over 200 degrees. If the temps in your locale are over the 90 mark and humid, your engine could run warmer than if it was 40 degrees. Work to date, new rad, new water pump, new t/stat, ( what temp), r and r water tube and flush block. Is the fan belt tight and your fan on the right way, is it close enough to the rad. What happens if you pull the t/stat in warm/hot weayher, does it settle down and run cooler. Is your timiing correct, if it isn't advance enough it could run hotter. Have you also taken a temp reading in the rad with a cooking thermometer, or can you access an infared temp reading gauge and pinpoint where the engine is hot.

On your next reply, give us as many details as you can, this way myself and the ohters can possibly help diagnose the situation, I have had this concern with my car, and got a lot of help on this forum from the P15 D24 Brotherhood.............Fred

[bob_amos]

Yup, mine ran hot when I got it too. So, I removed the radiator, sent it out to be rodded out. (Of coarse, you have a new one.) Removed all of the core/freeze plugs and flushed out the block. Boy would you believe all the crud that came out!!! Replaced the distribution tube, which was in good condition but changed it just the same. Checked the pump flow. The reason for my running hot was mostly the crud in the block. The radiator had quite a bit of crud in it too but the biggest part was the crud in the block. I removed and replaced all the core plugs that were removable without removal of the engine. Haven't had much trouble since.

[mikemaker]

Rockwood & Bob pretty much went over just about everything, but I would stll do a compression check to see if maybe you have a problem with the head gasket. I blew the head gasket on my Bizzy coupe a long time back, it blew between # 5 & # 6 cly. and I went through just about everything before I figured it out.

[bob_amos]

Good point Mike. If a compression test doesn't show any results, try running the engine with the radiator cap off and the fluid level above the core about half way to the top. While increasing the engine speed, look for bubbles to appear. If so, there still may be leakage but not enough to show in a compression test. One last thing. A few bubbles that eventually clear up are nothing more than coolant flow trapped air. But if the bubbles increase with engine speed and decrease when idled down and fail to dissapear, then removal of the cylinder head may be in order. Before removal, however, try having a professional do a chemical test on the system. What we do here is, fill a special container with a blue coloured fluid that will react to exhaust gasses that might be present in the cooling system. With the tools tube filled to a predetermined line we draw air off of the radiator tank. If the fluid turns yellow there are exhaust gasses present. If not, then you are home clear. To be sure that the fluid is still good, before discarding, take an exhaust sample from the tail pipe and if the fluid not turns yellow then the fluid is still good. I have seen this stuff age and not respond properly after sitting for years.

[1just4don]

Thinking HAS been dangerous for me to do. When we have dirty dishwahers or dirty glasses or dirty faucet aerators,,,we stick them in vinegar to clean them up.

Is there any way OR any harm in pouring a gallon or two of vinegar in a mopar 'block part' and let it set overnight before flushing it all out??? maybe with the freeze plugs and all other plugs still in it so it HAS to stay inside. Probably have to take radiator hoses off and plug bottom one with the right size rubber expander plugs,,,or taKE IT OFF THE BLOCK SIDE AND USE THE EXPANDER PLUG ON THERE.(sorry,darn cap lock,,,wish I could disconnect that key) If you soaked it a time or two then took plugs out and really cleaned her out,it would be closer to 'new' condition.

Otherwise it has considerable 'scum' inside. And a plug you could stick in the outlets with a water hose attached would blow alot of gunk out,till you got the freeze plugs out!! Like those snake things that you stick in a drain,the hosepart swells to the size of the pipe, then squirts pulse of high pressure water(supposedly enough pressure to snake/blow a houses drain clog).

I would THINK the vinegar would improve the flushing of the system. Commercial flush products are made out of what???

[Plymouthy Adams]

Only one...vinegar disolves cast iron...

[PatS....]

What about CLR?

[greg g]

clr is diluted phosphoric acid. vinegar is acetic acid, acid good good vs rust but for cast iron. Perhaps a basic solution of drain cleaner / oven cleaner might be as effective on the gunk but kinder and gentler to your block.

[BobT-47P15]

Guess I would need to remove the top bolt to drain on the side....no draincock on this engine. I suppose one could be added there.

[BobT-47P15]

This is some of the antifreeze that came out of the car the other day.....had some brown stuff at the bottom but not very much. Probably been in there for at least 8 years.

[Don Coatney]

I believe it was Lou Earle who suggested dish washer soap to clean the water jacket. I have not tried it but it sounds like it will work.

On the over heating issue check your engine timing.

[Guest Tavis Miller]

Sorry I haven't gotten back in awhile. I haven't done anything yet due to being away, but i'm going to have to check all them things. Hopefully this weekend I'll pull her al apart and blow water through her to see if there is any crud up in there. and i'll check the compression and good stuff. Thanks for the help!

[Plymouthy Adams]

Most product for fast flush on the market is a very diluted mix...I personally do not recommend any flush product that does not contain a second product for neutralizing the flush agent. Reason is, and I have seen this countless times, is that people will use that flush..let it sit for too long..if one is good two is better approach etc etc...the agent is to loosen the scale from the metal and allow it to be washed out of the system. However if you do not get it all out and if any crud in a corner have sediments that absorb the acid..you now have a concentrate amount and continued action of the acid..more leaks occur after an acid flush that I care to comment on. Removing the core plug and rodding the block along with a clear water flush if my recommendation..if you have serious crud problem..trust me..you need core plugs re-newed. Remember fast flush is a short time effort for max money in the repair business where the shop is making money at your expense both immediate for work done and long time for returning work that is often the by-product of the quick fix.

[De Soto Frank]

Tavis,

Have you checked the ignition timing ? Timing that is retarded too far will cause even a squeaky-clean engine to run hot.

Performance will also seem "doggy"....

Just offering another possibility...

De Soto Frank