Connecting Rods

[steve3050]

I am getting ready to check rod bearing clearances on a 1954 Hy-Drive engine. The first thing I see is that there are no lock washers under the nuts holding the caps to the rods. The manual shows lock washers. What type should be used, and are they ordinary hardware store items or special? The background is that this engine supposedly had the main and rod bearings replaced, along with one valve, plus the timing chain, only about 1000 miles ago, and before I owned it. I have an invoice covering the parts but no proof that the work was actually done. It has good compression and does not smoke. Unfortunately, It has a tapping or light knock that seems to meet all the criteria for a rod bearing or wrist pin problem. I am going into this to find out if something was done wrong that I can correct.

[_shel_ny]

Nothing special about the washers except the size.  get them over the bolt, and they may not fit in place. I believe someone on the forum ended up using some metric lock washers, and modified them a bit.

 

 

ebay seller sowaves had some of the correct ones at one time

Edited July 19, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[Plymouthy Adams]

look to see if they are not specific for a socket head bolt (allen bolt if you wish)

[Don Coatney]

Socket head bolt is also referred to as a  "socked head cap screw"

[Dodgeb4ya]

Most of the later Mopar flatheads as I recall after 1953 do not use the very special thin lock washers that fit into a counter bore in the rod caps. If there is no counter bore in the rod cap, no lock washer is used. 

Bob

Edited July 19, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[mayflower48]

Mr. Gasket Co. makes lock washer that is made for header bolts.  It is the same thickness and size as the orginal. Should be able to get them from Mr Gasket of maybe online from Summit Racing. Mr Gasket P/N3416

Edited July 19, 2013 by mayflower48

[_shel_ny]

if needed...........  part # is 668555

 

collectorsautosupply   $6      (set or each, don't know)

 

mitchellmotorparts

 

http://www.mmpar.com/StoreVBVS2011/PS.aspx?CategoryID=16&selection=1

[steve3050]

Thanks for all the input. I hope to get the first rod bearing cap off this weekend and see if it has the recess for a lock washer per Dodgeb4ya's post. Too hot these last few days—96 degrees in the garage at the time of day I could have gone out there—that's my excuse! Also I appreciate shel_bizzy_48's post identifying the source for the correct lock washers for the 218 engines. I'll check in again after I've measured the clearance of a bearing with Plastigage. This is all new to me.

[steve3050]

I rotated the crank so that the #3 and #4 throws were down all the way. Then I removed the conn rod cap nuts from #4 and saw no lock washers. Thought the cap would come off easily but it did not budge. So I took off the nuts from #3 and a lock washer came off with each nut. So I finally get it. The washers are there, just stuck on the bolt with the #4. Next question is, what kind of persuasion do you use to get the cap off? I intend to measure the clearance on one bearing, coat with assembly lube, bolt up the cap, and do the next one. I'm doing this with the engine in the car.

[Niel Hoback]

  Usually, tapping on the side of the bearing cap/connecting rod parting line will make them separate.  Try turning the crank so that the throw pushes the rod up.  Tapping lightly, not hammering.

[P15-D24]

  Usually, tapping on the side of the bearing cap/connecting rod parting line will make them separate.  Try turning the crank so that the throw pushes the rod up.  Tapping lightly, not hammering.

Use a rubber or plastic hammer.

[Don Coatney]

Plastic screwdriver handle works well

[_shel_ny]

And be careful not to scratch the crank with the threads of the bolts if you push the connecting rod and piston up out of the way before removing the bolts.

[steve3050]

I was able to remove conn rod bearing #3 using the advice given. Thanks. I used Plastigage on the bearing. I took a photo but do not know how to upload it from my desktop as an attachment to this post. The clearance is .002" based on how I read it. I measured the journal with a dial caliper and it read 2.053". The car came with some invoices, one of which was a Bernbaum order form with the owner's credit card number on it. So I think it was an actual order. It included a set of .010 conn rod bearings. I will move on to check the #4 conn rod bearing—the cap didn't come loose on my first try. I thought that the #4 was where the noise was coming from, based on taking off the plug wires one at a time and trying to duplicate the noise. I read a post from this forum about turning over the engine with a wrench and looking for loose piston pins. Maybe I'll do that next.

[Don Coatney]

Better to pull the head and remove the piston for inspection.

[_shel_ny]

I was able to remove conn rod bearing #3 using the advice given. Thanks. I used Plastigage on the bearing. I took a photo but do not know how to upload it from my desktop as an attachment to this post.

 

 

In the "reply to this topic" section, look to the right. click "more reply options"

 

Scroll down to the "attach files" area, then "browse" your computer pics and "attach" your file.

 

You can "preview" to see if it is to big, too small, or not there before hitting "add reply"

Edited July 22, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[steve3050]

I removed the #6 conn rod cap easily. Then I went back to trying to remove the #4 cap, but still no luck. The lock washers are firmly stuck in the recesses in the cap, and this appears to be the problem. The only thing I can think of is to tap harder on the bolts, to move them up 1/4 inch or so. Maybe that would dislodge the washers. I would use something softer than steel as a cushion. But I would like to know if I am in danger of breaking the cap or damaging the crank. I turned the engine over two revolutions by hand, before I took off the #6 cap, and that did not loosen the #4 cap.

[Don Coatney]

Use a piece of wood as a buffer

[steve3050]

Just to bring this particular phase of the engine work to a close...I was finally able to remove the #4 conn rod cap with a lot of trouble. Apparently someone lost the correct split washers and used 3/8 flat washers of soft steel. When the nuts were tightened to 50 ft. lbs. the washers flattened and got an extremely tight grip on the bolts. I was able to tap one bolt up about 1/4 inch and tap it down again. This allowed me to get a small Vise-Grip on the washer and literally screw it off the bolt leaving threads on the ID of the washer. I couldn't move the other bolt, so I had to carefully drill two 3/32 holes through the washer, finishing with an end mill in the electric drill so I wouldn't mark the cap with the point of the twist drill. This weakened the washer's hold on the bolt enough that I was able to tap it upward and remove the washer. The next step is to get all the piston and rod assemblies out and look for a twisted rod or loose piston pin. Thanks to all for the advice.