Anybody Ever Disassemble A Closed Door?

[StayFrosty]

Hello everyone,

 

I went to take the '54 out for a drive the other day.  When I attempted to open the driver door it behaved like it was locked--the handle pulled out freely and didn't do anything.  Thinking I accidentally locked the door somehow, I crawled through the passenger side and tried opening the door there.  I got a little (but less than normal) resistance from the handle but the latch did not disengage.  I removed the metal trim around the window and looked in to the door as I tried the handle again.  I could see the linkage moving correctly.

 

If I ever want to open this door again, I suppose I'm going to have to disassemble it with the door shut and figure out what part of the latch is broken.  Has anybody on here ever done this?  Any tips on how I might remove the door panel without destroying it?  The lower part of the panel is original and still in near-perfect condition.  I would like to save it if at all possible.

 

In addition, the process for removing the interior door handle/escutcheon is less than obvious.  From the research I've done, there is supposed to be a pin somewhere that has to be removed but I haven't had any luck locating any pins.  Any advice on this would be welcomed as well.

 

Thanks.

[Young Ed]

Push towards the outside and the door handle shaft with the pin through it will be exposed.

[Plymouthy Adams]

sounds like the lock is not working right...staying locked..have seen this happen...these door have a puh to lock pull to open on the inside with the glass garnish removed..can you get a tube in place to the latching mech and allpy some oil..let it soak and soften the old grae..then maybe it will allow you to open the door...the glass and track must be removed to remove the latch

[JerseyHarold]

If you roll the glass down you may be able to insert a piece of coat-hanger wire in the slot and manipulate the lock mechanism to release.   I've done this on newer cars and it usually works.  If you remove the opposite side door panel it would help to see what you're dealing with.

[WatchingWolf]

At the risk of over stating the obvious, I discovered on my 1950 Wayfarer (which I have no door or trunk keys for) that by pushing the inside door release handle beyond the "neutral center" it locks the door from the inside, just like pushing the lock button down in later model cars.  Pulling it all the way back unlocks the door and opens it. Have you tried to open the door using the inside handle? I had a 3 day long panic moment the first time my kid was "helping" and locked my drivers door.

[_shel_ny]

In addition, the process for removing the interior door handle/escutcheon is less than obvious.  From the research I've done, there is supposed to be a pin somewhere that has to be removed but I haven't had any luck locating any pins.  Any advice on this would be welcomed as well.

When removing the inside handle, as someone posted, push in to depress the spring and you will see the pin.

 

Depending upon how strong the springs are, how reluctant the pins are to be removed, and how coordinated you are, it is sometimes better done with 3 hands.

 

Pushing the spring, escutcheon back will expose the pin. Sometimes the pins are easy, sometimes they are tough.

 

As I have redone my door panels, mine just slip right out . Actually during this photo session mine fell out onto the floor when I depressed the spring and wiggled the handle.

 

The extra hand comes in if you need to use a pick, or a nail to coax the pin out.

 

Be careful if doing the pin by yourself. If the escutcheon is released during removal or installation with spring pressure behind it, without the pin being centered, it is possible to bend the escutcheon. Been there done that.

 

EDIT: can't get the pics in the order that I wanted them.

Edited May 11, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[Plymouthy Adams]

I posted this long back..the automatic center punches one gets at Harbor Frieght for a few dollars is a simple one man show for removing these pins..the punch is of the right diameter also and when touched to the pin the spring action of the punch shoots the pin out..so I use the side portion of my hand with the cupped palm to push and catch the pin as it exits into my palm.

[BobT-47P15]

Or......you can use something like a 10 penny nail to push out those door handle/window handle pins.  I believe you

need to push from bottom side of the shaft, up toward top as those pins are tapered so they won't fall out.  Hard to

tell at just a glance, but they are.  

 

Did the 54 Plymouth still use the inside door handle to lock the door?  

I think you pull the handle "up" to lock and push down to open the door..........sounds silly, I know,

but double check that situation.  Otherwise, with the window rolled down, can you see inside the door

and find any of the locking mechanism to work with along rear edge of the door?  

 

Do you have a key that fits the door lock?  I believe it is usually the ignition key......   

[Plymouthy Adams]

the pins are not tapered to prevent falling out  the escutcheons hold the pin in place..that is why you must push in on the spring to make them accessible..and yes the 54 still has push to lock and pull to open inside door lever action...mentioned in post #3

[BobT-47P15]

OK.......pin not tapered.  True.....you do have to push in/down on the escutcheon to reveal the pin.

 

The cone shaped spring behind the door panel is what creates tension to keep the escutcheon in

place against the handle.  

[StayFrosty]

OK, Thanks for the help so far.  I've managed to get the inner panel removed this afternoon.  I actually took both sides apart so I could see how the linkages work in a properly working door.  The 10-penny nail did the trick for getting the handles off.

 

After inspecting everything, it appears that all the linkages--both inside and outside--are working correctly and the problem is somewhere in the latch itself.  I'm going to give Plymouthy Adam's oil trick a try and see what happens.  I can't say I'm overly confident--I'm thinking something is broken internally in the latch itself. 

 

Worst case, anybody know where I might find a new set of door hinges and a new latch?

[Plymouthy Adams]

2 door or four door..2 door would be easy...hinges..that is a drastic measure...

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have a 53 Plymouth wagon that did this same thing. One day the door latch siezed up or would not operate. I knew the latch was going out as sometimes the door would not close 100% and click shut correctly as it used too. Well I closed it and heard and felt it close and jam up. I tried the easy "polite" be nice to the Ole girl way. No dice. I put a small piece of plywood against the door panel and down on the seat and kicked the door open as this is how I learned  to get them open in the junk yards. The door opened.

This is not the right way I know. The problem is in the worn rotor. It jams half way from where it should be. You can try to carefully wedge the door open too. This is a tough problem with 1953-56 MoPar door latches. I have a 300B that had this just happen too. I will have to be nice to it when getting that door open. 

Bob

[captden29]

this happened to me once.was a mystery like yours. turned out I had closed the door and left a screwdriver between the door sill and bottom of door.you could not see it. if you have an object in there like I did, try lifting up on the outside door handle and pulling while someone pushes the door open from inside.it will open up and no disassembly is required.a little embarrassing, but a better fix. capt den