Sorting The Beast

[Jeff Balazs]

There are a few things about this truck I really don't care for. The location of timing marks and pointer is right up at the top of my list. If you tried it would be difficult to pick less user friendly location. Even after I painted the pulley black and filed a line at TDC it is very hard to get a decent angle. If I wasn't sold on putting an electric fan on before......... I am now.

 

Timing was about 6 - 8  degrees off and adjusting it helped some. I got the shocked repeatedly when touching the base of the distributor while doing this. I can understand getting shocked when touching the cap, etc.....but I think the base near the anchor bolt should be shock free ???? I need to look into this further. This can't be right. I can't recall ever running into this condition before.

 

Jeff

[Jerry Roberts]

 If I remember correctly , some of the electricity goes to ground through the steel body of the distributor . Make sure that your hold down bolt has a good clean , tight ground . Also the plate that bolts to the distributor body . I know that the condensor does it's job by grounding some of the electricity , and the condensor is grounded to the plate . My engine won't run if the condensor isn't grounded .    Edit ;  Yes , I see your distributor was loose when you were touching it to adjust the timing . 

Edited May 7, 2013 by Jerry Roberts

[HanksB3B]

 

"Perfectly Normal" but,

 

 

you do look like you have aged quite a bit since you started this project.

 

Hank 

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank I liked him as Iggy much better. Iggy & Louie ...... Now that was some funny stuff!

 

I will pull the distributor and take a closer look at that grounding point Jerry. I did paint the block. At this point it almost has to be something simple like that.

 

Jeff

[Jerry Roberts]

 I wonder if your engine doesn't have a good ground because of the new paint . Is the distributor grounding through you instead of the block ?

[Jeff Balazs]

Jerry;

Well it did sort of feel that way..... I pulled it and cleaned up the mounting boss, etc... so we will see if that helps.

I am trying to get a make it easier to read the timing marks. The way it was .... just wasn't working for my old eyes. Now the pulley is flat black and tomorrow it will get a fresh white mark. If that doesn't help I am not sure what to do.

 

Jeff

[MBF]

I hear what you're sayin' about the location of the marks.  Another way to tune is to use a vacuum gauge.  If your timing chain and or gears are worn a timing light might not be that accurate anyway.  A quick test to check for wear is to align the timing mark with the pointer at 0 degrees.  Remove the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor.  With a tight fan belt, grab the fan and try to rotate the motor one way until the rotor moves, and then back the other way until it moves again.  Calculate the difference between the two marks where the rotor moved.  That will tell you how much slop is in your timing chain and gears.  I've tuned engines by attaching the gauge to a non ported vacuum source and rotating the distributor to obtain the highest vacuum reading and then back it off 1 or 2 degrees.  With the engine up to temp, take it for a ride and see if it pings on a pull.  If it does back it off a degree at a time until it stops pinging.  There are other things a vacuum gauge can tell you- leaking valves, worn rings, etc.   Mike

[Jeff Balazs]

So here is a question.........how much of an effect do you suppose a PCV valve installation has on vacuum readings? I am getting a small amount of bounce (about an inch) in the vacuum readings and am wondering if it could be the PCV valve?

Thanks for your input.

Jeff

[pflaming]

I was going to put in a PVC valve, but Tim or Merle suggested I keep it simple and drive it for a while and then make changes as . . .  You might just disconnect that valve assembly and see what happens. MIne runs great but it tinkles a little oil, I think from the valve covers, I haven't gone on a witch hunt yet.

[HanksB3B]

Paul regarding your tinkle...(that just doesn't sound right) It's old age catching up to your truck.

 

I'm sure there are a couple of trucks out there that have leaks.  Maybe I forgot a few but here's some commonplace ones.

 

1, Like you said valve cover gaskets. Usually just tighten them. Be careful not to "dish" them ! This can happen and the structural integrity can be compromised. The cover will never exert enough downforce at the perimeter edge until you either re-puckered the covers or preferably replace them.

2. The main seal of the engine.

3. The oil pan.  When the instructions tell you to leave a protruding piece of cork they mean it.

4. That darn Ring Seal at the back of the transmission.  OD=2.543, ID=1.563, THK=0,743

5. If you have a truck with the dipstick in the pan and not in the block, be advised the "dipstick plate" affixed to the oil pan is subject to leak.  During your build, with the oil pan off, fill it with water to check for leaks. 

 

You need to pay super attention to all the little gaskets in the complete gasket kit, plus have the engine section of our Truck Manual memorized and really be looking over your own shoulder (ideal) or make sure your rebuilder has a copy of the engine section that you leave for him.   

 

Can anyone think of anything else ?

 

Hank 

Edited May 14, 2013 by HanksB3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Paul;

Keeping things simple is a good advice. I went ahead and did the PCV as an upgrade.....and I am not sure if it is actually causing any problems.......just wanted to bounce it off others who have one installed to get their insight.

 

I went ahead and ditched the mechanical fan in favor of a 16" electric pusher. It is an easy swap.....much quieter .....just as effective.....and not like to mangle any fingers. Sticking a timing light in there got a whole lot easier and safer too.

 

Check the seal around your fuel pump........after a few hours running time mine had a little oil drip that went away as soon as I snugged up the two mounting bolts.

 

Jeff

[pflaming]

I figured I would run it a thousand miles or so, then put it on a hoist again, and give it a close look.

Thanks for the tips, I'll specifically look at those. 

[MBF]

Jeff if you're getting a bounce on the vac guage, it could be a leaking valve (needing adjustment or maybe just sluggish).  You could try getting it warmed up and dumping a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil down the carb with the engine running.  If its a sticky valve or a stuck ring that may help to free it up.  Just make sure you do this in an open area, and not near where there are clothes on the clothesline.  I kinda like the smell of MMO, a trait not shared by my better half!   A PCV valve should reduce the vacuum reading evenly (assuming that you have it on a vac port under the carb) as it is a controlled vacuum leak.   Make sure that you have a PCV valve designed for an engine of similar displacement so that the orifice isn't so large that it affects performance or results in an overly lean combustion.  Mike

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Mike;

I need to do a compression check when the engine is warmed up. Just have not had the time.

I used components from VPW to build this PCV system......and yes it is piped up correctly. I will see what sort of results I get with the compression check and then go from there.

 

I don't mind that smell either........but then I rode 2 stroke dirt bikes for years that used Castor based oils....and I have been told that is an acquired taste   Personally I loved the smell of Blendzall in the morning!!!!

 

Jeff

[Don Coatney]

You might try a different vacuum gauge. I believe some gauges have dampers to steady the needle. On a road trip I once used a vacuum gauge owned by Greg G and on my engine the needle bounced all over the place. When I connect my vacuum gauge to my engine the needle is rock steady.

[48Dodger]

OT:    "Mine runs great but it tinkles a little oil"   Pflaming

 

Boy....I just got done tellin Paul in a PM how his skills and his automotive speak have grown.

 

       Then he sez 'tinkle"...hahaha

 

Tinkle: The specific gravity of oil as it exits the valve covers, or sometimes refered to as the "Paul Effect"

 

48D

[Jeff Balazs]

Don;

That thought had occurred to me too. It is an old gauge that I have had for years. I will have to borrow a couple and see if there is any difference.

 

In general it is running pretty well........and since it is my first Mopar flathead I really don't know what to expect. My ultimate goal is for this truck to be as bulletproof as is possible. It is going to be my daily driver and my only form of 4 wheel transport. So it needs to assembled properly and run right.

 

Jeff

[Don Coatney]

OT:    "Mine runs great but it tinkles a little oil"   Pflaming

 

Boy....I just got done tellin Paul in a PM how his skills and his automotive speak have grown.

 

       Then he sez 'tinkle"...hahaha

 

Tinkle: The specific gravity of oil as it exits the valve covers, or sometimes refered to as the "Paul Effect"

 

48D

Is tinkle the same as letting the smoke out of his new wiring?

[Jeff Balazs]

For the very first time I know what it's like to have a fluid drive!!!!!! Very cool feature. Even with the 3.55 rear end the old girl has plenty of grunt.

 

Up til now I had some idle issues that prevented the fluid drive from working properly. I managed to find two items that were causing this. The first was an incorrect gasket between the carb and the manifold. Changing this helped but did entirely solve the rough idle. That went away after I plugged off the PCV connection. Apparently the old valve that I got from VPW is malfunctioning. I just need to find a better replacement for this and it should be good to go. With it plugged off vacuum is steady at 19". Engine is running smoothly and warm starts are a snap.

 

What a relief. Now I can resume assembly with some confidence. That is really huge. Thanks to all of you for the suggestions. This truly is a wonderful feeling.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

I'm looking forward to the day you and Merle have a Drag Race with your "Fluid Drive" models. I remember there are different style s of chrome script logos that your trucks have. I also should have asked you if you have a good chrome guy because I have someone here up North that's real good and about half the price of others.

 

Hank 

[Merle Coggins]

I've heard that carburators need to be rejetted when using a PCV system because you are basically adding a controlled vaccuum leak into the system making it run leaner.

 

Good to hear you got it sorted out.

 

Hank, you'd have to time us with a calendar if we drag raced. Especially me with my double clutching 4 speed. If forces me to NOT be in a hurry when going through the gears.

[HanksB3B]

Wait I thought if you have a fluid drive double clutching was not necessary. I know my friend has a 4-speed non-synchro transmission his old pre-pilothouse truck I guess they call a crash box. But I thought all pilothouse 4 speeds only had no syncro in 1st gear only.

 

Hank 

Edited May 20, 2013 by HanksB3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Heck I would let Merle win........... ......... just to be able to spend some time with him.

My 52 is supposedly a full sychro gearbox. Have not had adequate time to fully test this but I tell you what..... in second gear from a dead stop she pulls real good. I don't think the 3.55 is going to be too high either......could be a 3.23 would be just fine with my slightly larger 230. I will have to find out in a few months when it is all roadworthy. In the evenings the Toll road to Coto de Caza is practically empty.......great place to road test and fine tune things.

 

I am going to have to find a better PCV valve and then test again. The old unit I had in it was definitely suspect.......perhaps with a good one it will not require any further fussing. I would really like to retain this system as I believe the advantages when working properly are worthwhile.

 

Jeff

[Merle Coggins]

Hank, the FD unit has nothing to do with how the transmission shifts. Dodge used the "crash box", spur gear, non-syncronized 4 speed until the B3 models, as I understand it.

 

Since I drove my Ol' Dodge exclusively this weekend (about 300 miles total) I did some practicing with clutchless shifting. I could get it sometimes, and othertimes I couldn't. I think the FD messes with me because it reacts like an engine with a heavy flywheel. It's still all about matching the engine speed to road speed for each gear being selected, but it added an additional challange. A couple times I could get from a stop, up to 4th gear, then back down into 3rd or 2nd for the next stop without ever stepping on the clutch pedal. It's not something I would do often, but it was fun to try it.

 

Merle