greg g Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 Did the spring ritual this AM after finding the p15 running poorly the other day. Removed bolt from bottom of fuel pump chamber. the brass screen was 2/3's blocked with stuff, cleaned and reinstalled. Disconected fuel line from pump to tank, put through a bit of compressed air at 15 lbs outlet pressure. Heard good bubble stream at fuel fill, reattached line. Inspected fuel filter #3. a see through one just before the carbs. Found it full of fuel but also with fine rust particals, change it and the one just after the fuel pump. (will be changing the third one after a trip to parts store) this one is on the frame rail just behind the drivers side front door. Checked all the fasteners on the carbs. Found they all needed snugging. Tightened all. found #1 and # 2 spark plugs to be loose, removed to check condition forund them a little sooted but not bad for just idling and running poorly around the block. reinstalled and tightened and checked others. found dizzy hold down screw loose and distributor rotated to fully advanced position, readjusted and snugged screw. Found coil to distributor wire loose in dizzy cap, adjusted it and reinstalled it tight. Started, made some carb and timing adjustments and went for a ride. Need a bit more advance and then she will be good to go. I also put 34 lbs of air in fronts and 32 in rears (205 75 15 radials) made quite a noticable difference in steering and handling. Drove around the neighborhood and noticed a 39/40 Ford PU peeking out of a garage of a back fence neighbor. Will investigate further, more gearheads in the hood is a good thing. So spend a few minutes around, over and under your car. The small things can make a big difference. Quote
Reg Evans Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 I still have fine rust powder coming from my tank on the P10 even after dropping it and cleaning it out at home. Shoulda lined it I guess. For now I put a large speaker magnet by the drain hole on the tank bottom in hopes that it will catch all the tiny rust particles. After a couple of weeks like this I'm gonna remove the drain plug and then the magnet to see if a bunch of fine rust drains out. I also put a small refrigerator magnet in the glass float bowl at the carb to catch what ever gets by the tank magnet. Think it'll work????? Oh....I also have 2 clear fuel filters in the lineup. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 Maybe I'm lazy, but I'd rather replace the tank with a new one than keep fighting rust in the gas. The gas in my fuel pump bowl is always nice and clean. Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 Maybe I'm lazy' date=' but I'd rather replace the tank with a new one than keep fighting rust in the gas. The gas in my fuel pump bowl is always nice and clean.[/quote']Norm; I know you have a nice clean poly tank but how old is the gas in your fuel pump bowl? What was the cost of gas the last time you filled your tank. Less than two bucks per gallon? How many years ago was that:D Quote
Young Ed Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 Don I was thinking its a good thing he got a plastic one or it would be rusting all over again. I quickly grew tired of the rust in mine too and had the tank gone over by gas tank renu. Mine was really bad though-I was changing the fuel filter at the carb after only a few 100 miles. Plus some really fine particles were still getting through to the carb. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 Norm;I know you have a nice clean poly tank but how old is the gas in your fuel pump bowl? What was the cost of gas the last time you filled your tank. Less than two bucks per gallon? How many years ago was that:D Actually, I just filled up not long ago (few weeks). Think it was around $3 per gallon then. Quote
Normspeed Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 Reg, I'm not sure a magnet will attract rust. I think iron oxide is non-magnetic. Anyone know for sure? I still have fine rust powder coming from my tank on the P10 even after dropping it and cleaning it out at home. Shoulda lined it I guess. For now I put a large speaker magnet by the drain hole on the tank bottom in hopes that it will catch all the tiny rust particles. After a couple of weeks like this I'm gonna remove the drain plug and then the magnet to see if a bunch of fine rust drains out. I also put a small refrigerator magnet in the glass float bowl at the carb to catch what ever gets by the tank magnet. Think it'll work????? Oh....I also have 2 clear fuel filters in the lineup. Quote
Reg Evans Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 Reg, I'm not sure a magnet will attract rust. I think iron oxide is non-magnetic. Anyone know for sure? Norm, I put the small magnet in the dirty float bowl and it picked up most of the crud in the bottom. Quote
Reg Evans Posted May 11, 2007 Report Posted May 11, 2007 Shell Bizzy 48 said , "Just think of the improved gas mileage that you will get with those magnets:D" I say, I know,I know !!!!!! And my ball joints feel better already too !!!!! Quote
RobertKB Posted May 13, 2007 Report Posted May 13, 2007 Had fuel pump problems with my '38 last year and had to replace it. Had fine dust/rust in sediment bowl on fuel pump and in the glass sediment bowl just before the carb. Put a clear plastic with paper filter in the gas line under the running board to eliminate the problem. Looked at it yesterday and there is some sediment (just a tad) in the new paper filter but none anywhere else. Will keep checking it periodically and replace if necessary. I had the tank steamed really well when I restored the car but I guess it doesn't get everything. Didn't want to line it as I am in two minds (not sure which one works) about that. On my '53 Plymouth I just have the glass sediment bowl on the fuel pump and nothing else but this car has been running continuously since new so gas tank is probably pretty good inside. Spends its winter in a heated garage so no condensation buildup. Guess each car has different needs based on history. Quote
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