52 Plymouth rear axle

[The Inker]

Hi Guys,

I own a 52 plymouth and I've just worked out that the thread on my left rear axle is stripped, the tricky part is it's the thread closest to the hub. I can screw down the castle(crown) nut but when it get closer to the hub it loses thread and won'rt tighten down, my question is do I have to replace the axle or can I get it welded and re-threaded?I live in Australia and finding another axle is going to be a real task, which brings me to another question what was the stock diff in a Canadian 52 Plymouth ?

Thanks,

Dean

[Niel Hoback]

Put a couple of washers under the nut to keep you out of the stripped part? Drill a hole in the nut for the cotter pin.

[Young Ed]

Can you see damage to the threads? I once left the axle nut too close the end when pulling the drum and thought I had damaged the axle threads. The nut had given up before damaging the axle.

[Andydodge]

Dean, nice to see another mopar fan from Oz here...........where exactly are you?............I'm in sunny Sth Grafton NSW.........Welcome to the best mopar forum on the net, Andy Douglas

[The Inker]

Pulled the crown nut off, inspected the thread on the axle again yep damaged but so was the thread on the nut. Went and got a new nut, re-threaded the axle put a thin washer in and hey presto looks like it's gunna hold just fine . Hey Andy I'm in Brisbane thanks for the welcome, maybe if we need to get hold of any parts we can help each other out.

Cheers,

Dean

[Young Ed]

Make sure you got it tight. That nut requires a lot of torque. 142 ft lbs minimum.

[Andydodge]

Dean, Ed's right it needs to be TIGHT .........it would be a good idea to use some locktite or similar and also make sure the cotter pin is the largest size you can fit and its good & tight............I have 2 cars, the 1940 Dodge Sedan and a 1941 Plymouth Coupe..........I've had the Dodge for 41 yrs, and have a few refrence manuals and info re parts etc..........I talk better than I type & can be contacted on 02 66435260 at my shop, Scale Automobilia or after hrs on 02 66 425963........anyway welcome aboard.............andyd

Edited October 11, 2012 by Andydodge
spelling mistake

[Rusty O'Toole]

From my 1953 Canadian Service Data Book

1951 and 1952 Plymouth model P22 and P23 rear axle, semi floating type, hypoid gears, ring gear 41 teeth, pinion gear 11 teeth, pinion adjustment - shims for axial position, spacer for preloading, pinion bearing adjustment by shims, no pinion bearing sleeve.

[The Inker]

Hey Andy thanks for the contact info when things quiet down a little I'll give you a call, I''ll check the torque on the axles this weekend. Rusty thanks for the info sounds like I'll have to invest in one of those manuals.

Thanks again guys.

[Plymouthy Adams]

P23 rear axle ie: the larger 118 wheelbase car and has the 3.9 with optional 4.1 often sold in hilly areas..the 3.73 was reserved to the short wheelbase 111 chassis and later with hy-drive..(114 wheelbase cars except for OD and again hilly areas)

Edited October 12, 2012 by Tim Adams

[Andydodge]

Dean, would strongly suggest getting a copy of a workshop manual also, here in Oz the "Factory" manual was the 46-53 Manual published by Scientific Publications on behalf of Chrysler Australia, there was also a separate 1954 Supplement. The Oz manuals are very basic, however have all the specifications etc for the Oz cars including the engine specs for both the 23" and 25"(Kew) engines. I have a copy of both if you want something photo copied.....btw there is another guy from Brisbane on this forum, Davin Cole, he is into 40's/50's mopar pickups, especially DeSotos.........he was at the Chrysler Expo last weekend with his dark blue DeSoto.........he's mainly on the truck part of the forum so he might be worth contacting also for info...........regards, andyd

[Desotodav]

I mix it with the car guys as well AndyD. I'll be at the car show at Harrington's (Jacobs Well) tomorrow.

I have car manuals if you need to borrow them Dean. I'm on the southside. PM me if you wish.

Desotodav

[The Inker]

Thanks Dave I'll be in touch, sorry it's taken so long to reply just been a bit busy.

[Robbo0001]

This will be a MAJOR thread dig, but Ive spent the last 4 weeks reading this entire forum whilst "swearing happily" at our (new to us) 52 Plymouth Cranbrook.

Another Aussie, live in Brisbane on the Northside and have gratefully accepted the tips and info of the Forum,

Big puller for rear drums? Check. Beat the **** out of it? Check. Get the Drums off? Check

Get the shoes relined and drums machined? Check

Spend FOR EVER getting the bloody shoes centred and adjusted properly? Check.

Bleed the buggery out of the brakes, while the Missus develops one leg like the Hulk pounding on the brake pedal? Check.

Brakes working? YIPPEE.

 

STRIP THE REAR LEFT HUB THREAD? check dammit.

 

I'm hoping a mobile thread repair dude can re-thread it on Monday....meant to be at Greazefest this weekend but the Old Gal isn't gunna make it unfortunately.

 

Hope all you Aussies are hale and hearty, and Gday to the rest of you...awesome forum.

[wayfarer]

I like your attitude. Many would simply give up after doing half of the work.

Keep us posted on the repair process.

[Plymouthy Adams]

was wondering when read the beat the **** out of it did not lead to the damaged threads...only hope that you did not damage the thrust block or other part within the carrier.

[Robbo0001]

Gday guys...cheers for the replies..all my BFG work was done on the puller "dog-bone' so I didnt bash any axle threads, or the drum itself.

Honestly, I think after running this drum on and off about 30 times, I've just dragged the thread a bit on the axle.

The "thread guy" was a no-show this morning, so I'm waiting on another fella for tomorrow. I actually managed to torque the castle nut and washer up to 150 ft pounds (with the drum off), but I still would like this thread resized. its the last 2/3 threads I'm a bit dubious about.

If all else fails, I will try hi-temp thread locker and retorque, with a bigger split pin.

[Desotodav]

Hi Dave and welcome to the forum.

Let me know if you have further issues with the axle thread as I have a few spare car axles down at my shed. I'm just down the road from you!

[Plymouthy Adams]

have you access to a thread file?

 

 

another method for repair threads is old school and quite easily done though it may sound a bit odd...take the nut and run it up tillit just gets tight...take a hammer at that point and tap all 6 flats of the nut while in that position..run it just a tad more and repeat the tapping on the flats....this will help to reshape the threads...use a tad of lubricant to prevent galling...have used this method many time and not so long ago salvaged the pitman arm on a vehicle the man had damaged...not super fast but does not take that much time either considering the alternative..this works fantastic on rusted bolts also as a alternative to chasing if you do not have a tap and die set at hand....again, bit of time but can save a job...the thread file will work wonders.

 

ADDED NOTE !!!  when tapping the flats..back the nut on the opposite flat with a body dolly or similar weighted object..say two pound hammer face...etc...

Edited August 8, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[Niel Hoback]

Thanks,I'm gonna try that. Not everyone has a die for bigger threads.

[Andydodge]

Hey Dav.........I thought we put a limit on how many bananabenders were allowed here.............lol............seriously tho' WELCOME aboard Robbo........these are a great bunch of guys and know their mopars, have learnt plenty here myself...........regards, andyd  

[Plymouthy Adams]

see my added note in reply above......please

[Robbo0001]

Thanks to all for your replies and advice, thread guy wasn't happy with reducing the axle by about 1-1.5 mm, so that's a no go.

Plymouthy thanks for your tip, but this axle is so far gone it only bites on the last 2-3 threads with the washer OFF.. (as in the castle nut can just be wobbled up of the busted threads along the axle)..so bad that for the short term, I've removed the washer from behind castle nut, torqued it up to 160 ft/pds and drilled a larger split-pin hole, further down the axle shaft.( I'm having problems with photobucket otherwise a chuck some pictures up..edit added as attachment sorry, can't seem to insert a link)

 

DesotoDave I might need that axle mate....just let me know where/when and how much. This going to mean new seals and bearings? I think I read somewhere it can just be pulled out once brake backing plate is off (More reading required). (I actually ran into a guy from Newcastle at Greazefest who had quite a few but I've lost his bloody number )

 

Andy thanks for the welcome, nothing wrong with a few Aussies to keep it lighthearted haha..

Bought this as a cruiser for my Missus but its spent 80 percent of its time on jack-stands...ah well, apparently its character building.

 

Back in the shed...Brakes work REALLY WELL but can't drive it.

Yippee.

 

edit I've redone the bigger split-pin and added another smaller one through the original position at 90 degrees.

 

 

 

Cheers again

 

Edited August 9, 2016 by Robbo0001

[Desotodav]

I will contact you soon Dave. I have hub & axle puller tools you can use. Axle should pull out with backing plate removed. There is a seal fella just down the road from my shed who should have new seals for you. Hopefully the axles are the same as yours (I think they are from 54 car/s).

I have emailed & messaged you.

[Robbo0001]

Got your email and have replied Dav, still amazed at how small the world really is when it comes to common interests and the Internet.

Fingers crossed its a match.. Missus has my head on the chopping block

Slowly learning Patience in relation to MOPAR.. The old Repco/ Bursons contacts aren't much help.. Cheers mate