Oil Pump Kit

[John-T-53]

Ever hear of one? Can't seem to find any except for just buying a whole new pump. All I need are the gears and a cover plate.

Thanks,

[beyert99]

I spent to much time chasing in an attempt to stop mine from leaking. Purchased a new one from Advanced auto parts, my engine thanked me. Mine was a Sealed Power #224-4160

Advanced Auto $115.19 after coupon code P20 with free shipping

Rock Auto $108.79 + shipping

Hope that helps, Tim

[JBNeal]

The flathead gear type hydraulic pump has a gasket & a square o-ring that is supplied in engine gasket kits to seal up potential fluid leaks. If the gears &/or cover plate are worn enough that the pump isn't building adequate pressure, odds are that the pump body has wear on it too that is detrimental to building pressure. Some hydraulic pumps have removable inserts that allow the machined-surface parts to be replaced, but the flathead pumps do not have this feature. It'd be cheaper to get that new pump then trying to make the old one work when it's past its prime

[IanT_Qld]

BTW - What is normal oil pressure? I noticed mine tended to sit around the 40 mark on the dial.

[John-T-53]

Alas, I finally found a rebuild kit. Of all places, I was able to order it through Kragen, direct from the mfr. Napa couldn't get it.

Melling # K-37A

This pump only has about 15k miles on it but some contamination passed through and marred the gears a bit. These rotor type pumps are more suseptible to damage from contamination. Still made good pressure, but while I have it apart, might as well do it right.

[HanksB3B]

John,

Great Find!

How much $

Hank

[John-T-53]

Cost was $68. A little savings over a new pump. Plus a fun side project.

[rustyzman]

Remove the drive gear carefully. It is easy to crack it or break teeth off. I started by trying to rebuild mine, but the gear lost a tooth in the process. Then the NOS assembly I bought seized after about 30 seconds of running (properly prepped ahead of time too) and knocked two teeth off that gear plus a minor bit of boogering on the cam gear. Third try was the ticket. All this because the cover leaked and I figured why not go for the rebuild. Also, the rebuild kit shaft is not drilled for the roll pin. You will have to do that after assembly. Just some thoughts.

[John-T-53]

The Melling kit comes with a new drive gear. The shaft was pressed out of the pump body by a drift touching the end of the shaft inside the gear, so no teeth are contacted in any way. Pressing on the new gear wasn't too bad, just a little tedious to get the correct amount of end play (.003 - .005") between the gear and the body.

I took the liberty to smooth out the oil passages inside the body with a dremel - the factory casting was a little rough and had sharp edges. This will hopefully make the pump a little more efficient by reducing friction loss.

Still have to drill the pin hole - going to use my friend's mill for that...

[John-T-53]

To conclude...

Finally got to drill the new pin hole today.

All done!

[JBNeal]

additional information - oil pump conditioning

[John-T-53]

17 hours ago, JBNeal said:

additional information - oil pump conditioning

 

Wow, that guy goes nuts.

[Sniper]

On 11/22/2022 at 3:08 PM, John-T-53 said:

 

Wow, that guy goes nuts.

Yes but he has zero failures so is it really nuts?

[John-T-53]

The oiling system is important. I checked back through my photos of the pump rebuild 10 years ago, and I did all the internal deburring, checking, and honed the end plate like this bloke did. However, I didn't upgrade to ARP fasteners so I guess I'm a slacker, LOL. 

[ggdad1951]

15 hours ago, John-T-53 said:

The oiling system is important. I checked back through my photos of the pump rebuild 10 years ago, and I did all the internal deburring, checking, and honed the end plate like this bloke did. However, I didn't upgrade to ARP fasteners so I guess I'm a slacker, LOL. 

 

it's not just this why we think you are a slacker!