jimfenick Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 I have a B4B with a Truck-O-Matic that I need to seperate before removing the engine. I am use to standard automatic transmission that you just unbolt the bell housing from the block and pull back and the shaft clears the torque convertor. Obviously this is different. Anyone have any suggestions on seperating these? Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 The bell housing wraps around the front of the flywheel, so you have to leave it in place and seperate the trans from the bell housing. Once the trans is removed, then the clutch and flywheel have to be removed from the engine, then the bell housing can be removed. I'd leave the bell housing attached to the engine until it's removed from the chassis. There is a way to remove the bell housing without removing the flywheel, but the trans still must be removed first. You would have to lift the bell housing up and over the top of the flywheel. And in some cases you first must drive the two dowel pins into the housing to gain the space. Merle Quote
HanksB3B Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 It's not possivle to seperate (hint ) the trans from the bellhousing. Anyone know why? Hank Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 It's not possivle to seperate (hint ) the trans from the bellhousing.Anyone know why? Hank I'll bite! On a truck-0-matic the bellhousing is part of the trans housing? Did I get it right? What did I win? Trip to Disneyland? 16 piece set of steak knives? T-shirt?:D Quote
HanksB3B Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 no it's dumber than that...possivle is not a word and neither is seperate. It is however "possible" to "separate" the trans from the bellhousing. Hank Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 I guess I wasn't thinking "dumb" enough. Yes, I saw the (sp) mistakes, but they're fairly common occurances here, myself included. Most, if not all of the early automatics had a removeable (sp?) bellhousing, so on the off-chance Chrysler did a one-up on everyone else.... Guess I'm not going to Disneyland after all.: Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 It can come out as an entire unit as long as you have a good hoist and some manpower. I removed my engine/ bellhousing and fluid drive 4 speed tranny as a single unit. Use the head bolts as shown earlier in the post and add a HD cargo strap to secure the transmission. Pretty easy with the cab off. Jeff Quote
HanksB3B Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 (edited) I guess I wasn't thinking "dumb" enough. Yes, I saw the (sp) mistakes, but they're fairly common occurances here, myself included. Most, if not all of the early automatics had a removeable (sp?) bellhousing, so on the off-chance Chrysler did a one-up on everyone else....Guess I'm not going to Disneyland after all.: I live in LA and I think I've been to Disneyland twice both times dragged along with a group wanting to go. I guess I'm just a poop because I really do not like Disneyland. Nothing about the place interests me and you often hear of mechanical failures leading to either serious injury or death. So happy family of 4 expect to pay ($336) for 1-day admission, 4 snacks @ $5ea-($20), 4 meals @$20ea ($80) so if you think $436 is worth hearing "It's a small world afterall" and it makes you feel better about life I say go for it. Hank Edited October 3, 2012 by HanksB3B Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 I've been to the one in Florida, drug along as well and nursing a pinched nerve in my back at the time. Wife, daughter and grandkids had a great time. Me, not so much. I won't be back. Disneyland, catch phrase for winning. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 If you don't want to mess with the trans and fluid coupling you can leave the trans/ bell housing in the truck. You will need to support the rear of trans to frame. Remove the bell housing to block bolts. Remove lower bell housing cover. Remove "8" fluid drive coupling nuts. Carefully pull engine from FD and bell housing. Crank flange should be marked in relation to FD unit. Easy. Bob Quote
HanksB3B Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 Thanks for getting this thread back on track. An honest question: Why wouldn't one want to separate the trans from the engine before pulling the engine. I always prefered to remove the transmission then the engine. Safer?, Faster, Easier? All the above? Hank Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 (edited) If you are say just rebuilding/swapping the engine and not wanting to pull the M-6 trans or bell housing and don't care about old grease and dirt, why not save a couple hours and leave the trans and bell housing in the car or truck (M-5 or M-6) setups? The FD and M-6 trans is a big heavy assembly compared to a regular 3 speed and clutch and has wiring to deal with too. Thats how these were done back in the day at dealerships and shops when just replacing the engine , not to mention it saved the customer a bundle on costs on these M-5/ M-6 cars and truck engine jobs. Today it's all about the love and feelings for our pretty old cars and trucks and making everything absolutely pristine in a restoration. Some times certain parts on a car or truck can be left as is-if desired. Bob Edited October 3, 2012 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 Thanks for getting this thread back on track. An honest question: Why wouldn't one want to separate the trans from the engine before pulling the engine. I always prefered to remove the transmission then the engine.Safer?, Faster, Easier? All the above? Hank That depends on what you are trying to do. If you want to work on the frame and the cab is off, then what I suggested is much faster and easier than separating them. 4 engine & bellhousing to frame mounting bolts and 4 at the rear U-joint. 10 to 15 minutes in or out. No alignment issues As far as safety goes.......at no point did I feel like there was any danger of injury or damage. Just have to have the right stuff to do the job and that is true any time you do something like this. You should never work at the extreme limit of the lifting equipment you have. Jeff Quote
jimfenick Posted October 3, 2012 Author Report Posted October 3, 2012 Guys, Thanks for all the input. I am doing a complete, frame off restoration. Engine is going to the machine shop, tranny to the tranny guys, frame/body to the blaster. Quote
jimfenick Posted October 3, 2012 Author Report Posted October 3, 2012 Another picture, I finally dumbed down my camera to get the file size smaller. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 3, 2012 Report Posted October 3, 2012 At this point with your stripped down truck to the frame just pull the complete engine and trans out then pull off the M-6 transmission. Then if you can punch the 2 bell housing to block dowel pins into the bell housing just enough so the bell housing can be lifted up and off the Fluid Drive coupling. This way you can remove the "8" FD nuts while standing-not laying undeneath the engine or laying it on it's side and spilling fluids all over. This is much easier than from underneath the engine. All this assuming you want to pull the Fluid coupling and trans once it'd out. NOTE: You have a fluid coupling-not a torque converter. Bob Quote
jimfenick Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Posted October 4, 2012 Bob, Thanks, I was at it tonight and that was the same conclusion I reach before I read your mail. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Posted October 4, 2012 look at you go with the wooden dollies! I like! Quote
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