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Final stage: safety detail and fine tuning Chronology


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I drove it today and the brakes, though still a bit spongy, held firm. Tomorrow will put it on a lift and check all bolts, etc. Then a fine tune on the engine, it backfires some when starting so got to fix that.

I drained the oil, it probably had only 2 hrs of running time. I was amazed at how dirty it was. I put it back in for the tune up then will drain it and put in fresh and install the oil filter.

The goal remains: do only what is required to get it road worthy, insured, and licenced.

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Hi Paul;

Could be it is running rich? That would explain the backfiring and "dirty" looking oil.

Have you pulled the plugs and looked at them? They will tell you a quite a lot. You will want to look at all of them to get a good picture of how your engine is really running.

Sooty black is too rich...Tan / med Brown is good...White with blisters or metal deposits is too lean.... and any time one plug is radically different than the rest you know you have a problem with that specific cylinder.

Hope this helps, Jeff

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Update: I had spark plug wires 5 & 6 switched, had a 3/16' fuel line to the carburator (must be at least 5/16"), had the distributor advanced a bit to far, and had the carb too rich. Other then that all was fine. :D Now I suddenly have a new engine. It starts without the use of either the choke or the footpedal, and it starts quickly.

DETAILS!

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I have the truck at a large box supply yard which has a very good truck shop and a mechanic who I've known for 40 years. On side of the yard is 1/4 mile long so one can test there and stay off public roads. Out another side is an alley with speed bumps so I could give the springs a nice work out. I tested on these then pulled in for a tune up.

I learned two things: (1) some gas nipples are tapered to tighten the deeper they get and thus they seal themselves and (2) I'm embarrassed to learn this, some fuel pumps have a sentiment bowl on the bottom to collect debri. I've know this since I was 10 years old, but I never realized the upper part of that bowl is a FILTER! Dad taught me to clean that bowl whenever there was something in it, which I did and do. So I have an in-line filter.

If I can get an old truck going, anyone can, that is, if they read the forum.

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Carl, thanks for the tip. I have disc brakes up front so will keep an eye on the rear. What I have been doing, is wipe all fittings after each drive. I test with my hand first for any wetness, then wipe clean. So far no leakers and the brakes are getting increasingly solid. On a sharp stop the truck stays in a straight line.

I was amazed at how smooth that engine started to run when we tightened the vacuum advance line, put in the correct size fuel line, and changed the 'advanced timing' snafoo, and of course put the wires in the correct order. edit: I was also amazed at how much more torque one can put on a wrench standing as opposed to lying on a creeper or on a concrete floor. I think all the bolts and nuts under the truck have a nice coat of silver fingernail polish on them. It really makes the plain ones evident as more and more shine.

I have spark plug wires that are wireless replaced by that black filiment. Is this what others are using?

This thread is a written reminder for myself and possibly a help to others.

Edited by pflaming
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Put this Mopar Flathead 2nd Drivein You-tube to see and hear the progress.

or: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xd_jX0DrV2I

It needs a carb rebuild, new points and spark plug wires, glass, and 15" wheels and tires. At least I'm now off the concrete. That 6 cyl has some get up and go if you want to really punch it. I'm not into doing that much, but my mechanic friend showed me how. Music to my ear.

Edited by pflaming
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  • 4 months later...

I've been close to street legal for sometime but couldn't find wheels. When I found wheels, I found a 55 Grill. I've been tinkering with that then tonight it all fell into plase. So here is my cut and paste 'new' grill.

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Hey! "No blood no gain!" Years past, you could always tell a GREAT mechanic or carpenter because they all had one finger missing! It's called 'putting yourself into your work"! :D

The ' 55 park light has a SINGLE filement bulb. Question: When did turning signals become mandatory? It is interesting that MOPAR automobiles had turn signals as standard equipment in the late ' 40s but not in their trucks. I put a dual filement receptical in the base to solve that problem.

Edited by pflaming
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I installed the new glass in my doors today. With no vent window, it's not a big task. 1) lower the glass in from the top, (2) forward guide must be loose [3 screws], (3) level the glass holding it through the door opening; (4) get both ends of the glass in the glass guides and lift it up about half way, (5) lower or raise the regulator just below the glass bottom channel. (6) now everything is visible and easy to reach. Put the regulator stubs in the slot and attach the clips, (7) slowly raise the window to full close, (8) replace the three screws that hold the forward channel. (9) put some lythium grease on the guides, (10) put the cover back on the door opening.

I chose a moderate gray tint for my glass. I went one shade below the legal Calif limit.

On Friday I had my exhaust system all welded up and I installed new rear shocks. With the new shocks and the radial tires it really drives nice. Now to recheck the lights, turn signals. brake lights: and install the horn ring and button and I'm ready for the DMV. Will leave for Indianapolis on Tuesday back on the 2nd.

After the first of the year you'll find me on the P15-D24 side. I bought a '53 Plymouth convertible and when my truck is on the road will focus on that.

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Edited by pflaming
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Paul, what method did you use to set the glass? The guy who did mine used a thin rubber tape that does NOT keep the glass in the lower channel.

That is the OEM method. However if the channels are weak or spread out you might need to do something else. Either goo or thicker tape or a combination? You could try smushing the channel down a little too.

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That is the OEM method. However if the channels are weak or spread out you might need to do something else. Either goo or thicker tape or a combination? You could try smushing the channel down a little too.

the glass that was in there was SLIGHTLY thicker and was more TAPED in with a gooey type material, I had to heat it and cut it out. This stuff was doubled up and the glass just lifts out with any friction in the door run....

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My glass man, been in the business for 40 years, placed a piece of flat metal in the channel the with a small hammer formed the channel to that flat. I had already steam cleaned and wire brushed the channel. The he placed a piece of "tape" in that groove and the glass followed. It was tight from the get/go. I think that preparation with the flat metal ensured that a great deal of the surface was holding the glass. Little tricks I guess.

It is interesting what glass does to the appearance of a vehical. Will have toget new windshields now.

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What did I pay for the car? Depends on who you ask. The seller said I got a steal, my son said it was a good investment, my wife . . . */-^^##?!!~.

When I saw it, it occurred to me that it was just a 52 truck with fancy fenders. It's all perspective. It is complete but for the driver's door and I've found one, and a rear axle which I would replace anyway. It has a Hy-drive transmission and I found an overdrive so I will put that behind the converter. It will be remain stock otherwise. I found the car where I found the wheels. Globeclassiccarparts.com. They specialize in cars below 1971 and have a good selection.

The truck, took me a while to find 15" x 5" wheels. Now all that remaines is the horn, parts on order, generator, and a final check of the electrical, then DMV. I drove it about five miles yesterday, with new shocks, radial tires, and one less leaf in the springs, it went straight down the road. Nice.

Merry Christmas

Edited by pflaming
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  • 4 weeks later...

Been on the truck this week, that with trying to buy a car for my wife took the week, YET, wipers work, all lights work, brake lights work, Horn works, generator checked out OK and it is now connected to the regulator, tail pipe and muffler all welded up, tail light lens on order in on Tuesday, OE grille in but not detailed. Tomorrow will work on the wheels, sand, paint, new clips, caps. Then run a # 10 black wire from the ampmeter to the regulator, polorize it, and I'm ready for the DMV. Only one thing concerns me, I have some cracks in the windshield glass, I want to see what I can get by with before I install the good glass in the closet.

 

To all who have advised, supplied parts, encouraged, watched I say thank you! Will post some pics after I give it a good wash and 'shine'.

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Been on the truck this week, that with trying to buy a car for my wife took the week, YET, wipers work, all lights work, brake lights work, Horn works, generator checked out OK and it is now connected to the regulator, tail pipe and muffler all welded up, tail light lens on order in on Tuesday, OE grille in but not detailed. Tomorrow will work on the wheels, sand, paint, new clips, caps. Then run a # 10 black wire from the ampmeter to the regulator, polorize it, and I'm ready for the DMV. Only one thing concerns me, I have some cracks in the windshield glass, I want to see what I can get by with before I install the good glass in the closet.

 

To all who have advised, supplied parts, encouraged, watched I say thank you! Will post some pics after I give it a good wash and 'shine'.

 

So wait are you telling me you end up with a hunk-a-junk (now) 50's convertible and then your wife has you shopping for a new car..? That reminds me of my second marriage!

 

Just Kidding, 

 

Hank

 

Hey P15-D24 Webmaster where are all our siliey wise-a*s faces and stuff?

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