Interior panels

[John Mulders]

Investigating what can be used for the door panels.

I found a product called Sintra,several types of thickness ( I think 4 mm (=0.16 inch)would do).

Anyone used that as panel for doors?

It is water resistant, the fabrics can be glued on, seems easy to cut and is pretty strong.

John

[BobT-47P15]

John, the original panels were of a type of cardboard that was waterproof, as I recall. They had some flexibility to them and gave just a bit around the springs at the door handles and window cranks. Not familiar with the item you mentioned....is it sort of like cardboard?

[Plymouthy Adams]

http://artgrafix.com/store/page13.html

I think I have a sheet of this at home tucked away for a couple panels for the 52...sounds like it by description..have not used it yet...cannot vouch yeah or nay. Not a very heavy in weight but appears very strong material. I have always been fond of ABS plastic...industry has used this for years...I do have panels make of this stuff..the trunk panels in the Tiger are of ABS and they have a pig-skin texture on them that looks excellent...very pliable 16years later.

http://www.americanplastics.net/abs_sheet.htm

[John Mulders]

I still have the original pannels but...no good.

I will use these to match the look and hopfully I can use the trim.

Good point on flexibility for the doorhandles. It does bend , think the thickness is important, these panels come in different sizes.

John

[greg g]

John, when I was doing my door and kick panels, I looked for coroplast. I had seen it used for trunck dividers and other automotive applications. It is used extensively by folks who make signs. I ended up using the same stuff as the original from the upholstery shop. I couldn't find anyone who would sell me 2 pieces of the plastic. The coroplast looks like cardboard made of plastic. This stuff looks good being more flexible than the coroplast. I will be interested in it when I get to the interior of my new project.

[bobby horne]

I used loads of coroplast in sign making. Coroplast is a very durable corrugated plastic. The problems with use in a auto is that coroplast will warp with temperature variations. My 38 Plymouth had 3 layers of laminated roofing felt in it originally. Heavy roofing tar paper was glued to the inside of doors and other panels for sound deading and insulation. I am using wood paneling boards now. Wood Panel boards are sturdy, inexpensive, easy to work with, and can be bought at about any home center.....

[Don Coatney]

I couldn't find anyone who would sell me 2 pieces of the plastic. .

Greg;

Try McMaster Carr. They will sell whatever size you need. They normally ship next day and I have found there prices are very fair.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Material > Shape > ThicknessView catalog pages (2)

Compare products (15) Plastics

15 products match your selections

Material ABS

Backing Plain Back

Shape Sheets, Bars, Strips, and Cubes

Thickness 1/8"

Tolerance Standard

UL Rating

UL 94HB | UL 94V0

Length

12" | 24" | 36" | 48" | 54" | 8'

Width

12" | 24" | 36" | 48" | 54"

ABS Material

ABS: Tough and impact-resistant, this material works well for protective applications such as small appliance housings.

ABS/PVC: Great for use in applications where dust and static electricity are problems. Material combines the best features of PVC and ABS for corrosion resistance with high-impact strength. It's electrically conductive and has a slightly textured finish on one side.

Color: Many plastic colors vary depending upon the consistency of batches, the thickness of the piece, and the viewing conditions. Please use these listings as a general guide.

Opaque materials block the passage of light.

Translucent materials allow the passage of light, but not necessarily a clear view of what lies beyond.

Clear materials allow view of what lies beyond without obstruction or haziness.

Opaque

Beige

Black

Operating Temperature

Select the level of low and high temperature resistance that best approximates your need. Before purchasing a product, verify that the Operating Temperature Range is suitable for your application. These selections are meant only as a general guide.

Lowest Temperature

Not Rated

Highest Temperature

+100° to +200° F

Not Rated

Performance Characteristic

High Impact Strength

Greater ability to withstand forceful sudden impact (similar to hammer strike). Generally withstands 5 foot-pounds of energy per inch of thickness under normal conditions. Static Dissipative

Often protects against static electricity. Allows moderate level of electrons to flow across surface or through mass. Generally has surface resistivity of 106-108 ohms per square inch. Flame Retardant

Contains additive that significantly reduces or retards tendency to burn.

Specifications Met

Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Compliant | Underwriters Laboratories (UL)

[vanbuskirk]

I used Masonite. Cheap. Quite satisfactory. The original materials for the six interior panels were - 3 heavy petroleum impregnated panels, and 3 corrigated cardboard. Both types had gone pruney. The upholstery fabric is held to the Masonite with Scotch adhesive spray. Bob

[BobT-47P15]

My door panels are made of 1/4" masonite....are plenty sturdy. Don't have to make rear side panels as they are metal due to being a ragtop. Just used the heavy posterboard for the kick panels....covered with vinyl material that has a grain. Used the posterboard stuff in the trunk side panels

[grey beard]

My B1B truck panels all have a thin vinyl bead sown around the outside perimeter of each piece - door and kick trim panels, even headliner pieces. How would one approach that process with ABS or PCV? Almost looks like I'm sorta'' stuck with something that an upholsterer's sewing machine can navigate. Suggestions?

Thanks

[Guest tagree01]

I know alot of the hot rod upholsterers use plain old thin wood paneling. They swear by it. It is a good trade off for flexibility and durability. Problem is that paneling went out of style in the 70s. I'll probably go with plastic for the next project just because I can't find any paneling. I tried masonite but I don't like the way the edges get fuzzy when you try to cut or drill it. I would avoid waterboard or any kind of cardboard-like material, unless you want an exact restoration.

[Plymouthy Adams]

If you are going with the home depot/lowe route..look at the thin bathroom paneling...get the on-pattern solid color stuff...will find that to be a bit moisture proof and thin enough..not expensive.

[1just4don]

using kemlite aka dairy barn liner aka what you see bathrooms lined with'alot'. It has a pebble grain side and a smooth side. I would think the smooth side would adhere well with glue etc. they are tough and hard to wreck. Cutting them is easy and has small fibers that slightly itch your neck(if you get a good dose of it)(but NOT necessary). Alot like fiberglass insulation. They use tons of it inside refrigerator reefer trucks. It doesnt delam like plywood or cardboard does. I am sure places like Menards or any lumber yard can get you 4X8 sheets. I have some 8' by 20-30 foot rolls of it. Blem stock from a truck construction place locally. It is SOOOO versatile!!

[Guest rockabillybassman]

I used hardboard (masonite) and covered it with pleated vinyl. I have a friend who is an upholsterer, and he uses a stuff that sounds a lot like some of the stuff mentioned above. Plastic, strong, but flexible. I wanted to use it, but it was beyond my self-imposed budget. The masonite was FREE!

[47heaven]

There was a guy I was referred to on here that makes these panels to original specs and ready to install. He has sold them on Ebay before. When I contacted him and asked him about possibly purchasing a set without the custom vinyl he puts on them, he said that he couldn't. I told him that I'm going to have my own material put on, but he still said no and that he only sells them with his custom vinyl on them. I don't see why he couldn't sell them just plain. I guess business is so good that he doesn't need customers. Go figure.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I would say that the panels are worth more to him for his finished product, in other words he is in the busienss for top resale not to provide material for DIY's..even I think if you were going to do it yourself you would make your own blanks.

[Lou Earle]

First pic is Masonite - thinnest available at home depot- covered with upholstery fabric I got for 2 bucks a yard

Second pic is of 1/4 or 3/8 inch cabinet grade(22 bucks sheet) plywood

Either works well- but just grind off the little arrows on the estucions otherwise they will eat up the fabric or scratch the uncovered wood

Lou

[47heaven]

I would say that the panels are worth more to him for his finished product, in other words he is in the busienss for top resale not to provide material for DIY's..even I think if you were going to do it yourself you would make your own blanks.

I would have paid the same price. I mean, I can buy them and rip the vinyl off of it. It's just that my holes for the trim are not correct and what I really need is a pattern taken from an original.

[Norm's Coupe]

I would have paid the same price. I mean' date=' I can buy them and rip the vinyl off of it. It's just that my holes for the trim are not correct and what I really need is a pattern taken from an original.[/quote']

Darin,

It's easy to make a pattern yourself and get the holes in the right spot. First pick up a couple of pieces of poster board at an art supply store, Office Max, Office Depot, etc. Then tape them together to make one big piece big enough to cover the whole door. Remove your door handles and armrest from the door. Then tape the poster board to the door, trace the outer area around the door. Then run your hand over the door to find the door handle post, window crank post and the armrest holes. Then mark those. Remove the poster board and you now have an exact pattern with the holes in the right place. If you mess up with the armrest holes, it's no big deal. It's just poster board, re tape it back on the door and re do the armrest holes until you get it right. Now you have an exact pattern to work from. For the other door just flip that pattern over on the other side and it will line right up with those holes, etc. You can do the same with your rear quarter panels. The ashtray hole is easy because it's big enough to locate easily.

[Lou Earle]

Arm rest holes- easy way- When I made a pattern I put 2 bolts in the armrest holes held the big piece of cardboard up to door tapped it in the center- that marked the armrest screw holes on the board. then took screws out put big washers on screws punched holes in cardboard and the attached the cardboard to the door with the screws and bid washers - the drew outline

Very easy job

Lou

[47heaven]

Hey guys...thanks for the advice, but using the cardboard already crossed my mind. The problem is where do the holes go for the stainless steel trim? When my car had the present panels put in (and these aren't the originals) they only replaced the stainless trim for the front doors, not the back. When I tried to line up the trim in the back with what was already in the front the back trim seemed to pass under the window crank hole as seen here:

Someone on here then showed me a pic (which I can't find on here anymore) of their back special deluxe back seat panel as it looked originally before they had new ones made. It showed the strip riding over the front of the window crank instead of below. When I moved the strip above the crank, it, of course, it didn't match up with my front door strip. When I moved the front door strip up to match the back, it looked too high up.

The bottom vinyl strip on the door will probably be as high up as it is with the back seat.

[Norm's Coupe]

Hey guys...thanks for the advice' date=' but using the cardboard already crossed my mind. The problem is where do the holes go for the stainless steel trim? When my car had the present panels put in (and these aren't the originals) they only replaced the stainless trim for the front doors, not the back. When I tried to line up the trim in the back with what was already in the front the back trim seemed to pass under the window crank hole as seen here:

[img']http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/dk1964/myPlymouthPics00086.jpg[/img]

Someone on here then showed me a pic (which I can't find on here anymore) of their back special deluxe back seat panel as it looked originally before they had new ones made. It showed the strip riding over the front of the window crank instead of below. When I moved the strip above the crank, it, of course, it didn't match up with my front door strip. When I moved the front door strip up to match the back, it looked too high up.

The bottom vinyl strip on the door will probably be as high up as it is with the back seat.

Darin,

That's because you don't have little notches in the bottom of your back panel. You have to locate the beads rolled in the floor and cut those notches out. Otherwise the back panel will sit too high and make the back stainless higher than the front. If you click on the link next to my name, than go to the interior page from there, it will show a picture of that back panel with the notches I mentioned cut out on the bottom of the board. The board on that page is not covered yet.

[47heaven]

Darin' date='

That's because you don't have little notches in the bottom of your back panel. You have to locate the beads rolled in the floor and cut those notches out. Otherwise the back panel will sit too high and make the back stainless higher than the front. If you click on the link next to my name, than go to the interior page from there, it will show a picture of that back panel with the notches I mentioned cut out on the bottom of the board. The board on that page is not covered yet.[/quote']

Norm...I don't see a link next to your name. I went on your homepage, but couldn't find anything there.

[Norm's Coupe]

Darin,

The link is at the bottom of every post I make, right next to where it says: "Norm From The Old Forum" The blue writing is a link, click on that.

[47heaven]

Darin' date='

The link is at the bottom of every post I make, right next to where it says: "Norm From The Old Forum" The blue writing is a link, click on that.[/quote']

Sorry, Norm. I'm looking at every post you made on this tread and still not seeing it. All I see under your name is: Guru, have been a long time contributor and I can't click on that.