yourpc48 Posted May 25, 2012 Report Posted May 25, 2012 How many different electronic ignition distributor types have we adapted to our flatheads? I have looked through the threads and found several ways of adapting our originals but I seem to remember seeing an image with an HEI like a Chevy cap. So that got me thinking. Start a thread to see the different ways to use or adapt electronic ignitions for our flatheads. The most recent I saw was a slant 6 adaptation. Pics and / or a basic description would be great. Thanks... Dale Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 25, 2012 Report Posted May 25, 2012 Some have adapted a Slant 6 dizzy, and its solidstate components for this very job. I know of a Gent near where I live who has done this very conversion, and He is quite happy with it, good performance, and great engine start-ups. Quote
Daliant. Posted May 25, 2012 Report Posted May 25, 2012 I was using electronic ignition on my flatty with a modified slant 6 distributor and stock 70's Chrysler ignition box and was very happy with it: quicker starts, no low speed miss and better perfomance. The flatty is coming out though in favor of V8 power (318) also with the same stock Chrysler electronic ignition. Quote
Tim Keith Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 I have heard that the GM HEI is the best OEM system for the least money. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779 Quote
yourpc48 Posted May 26, 2012 Author Report Posted May 26, 2012 Thanks for those replies. Good idea to adapt the gm HEI to the stock dizzy. I want to eliminate the points as the trigger. The slant 6 dizzy conversion using the original flathead dizzy shaft is do-able and could be taken a step further with the HEI conversion. Has anyone taken a GM or other Electronic dizzy and made it work in the flatty? Just wondering. I have seen a couple of inline 6 distributors that might be made to work and then use off the shelf parts to work with when the cap, rotor, etc are needing replaced. Hmmm. Quote
hkestes41 Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 Langdon's Stovebolt Engine Co sells a modified S10 HEI distributor for the flathead Mopars. http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#ecwid:category=361515&mode=product&product=1222043 I have been running one in two different flatheads a 218 and a 230 with great results. Just dropped it in, set the timing and have had no issues since over the past 4+ years. Until Dec this was my daily driver so there are a lot of miles on the clock with this set up. I got the round coil rather than the square one. Quote
47heaven Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 Dale...this is what I'm running in my P15, and have been for over five years. Darin http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#ecwid:category=361515&mode=product&product=1222043 Quote
Andydodge Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 Same here, the Langdon S10 HEI.....runs fine, great improvement and no points.....lol.......andyd Quote
falconvan Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 Same here; just installed Langdon's mini HEI a few days ago and the all around difference in running quality is amazing. Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 Same here; just installed Langdon's mini HEI a few days ago and the all around difference in running quality is amazing. That sounds very good, what major or even minor difference can be expected by installing this set-up? Quote
BeBop138 Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 I used the inline six set-up from Chebby---I also like the slant six conversion. I like my set up for the easy access--plus I have the room in the engine bay----the slant six conversion my be better for the smaller bays----- We do it because we can..........Lee Quote
yourpc48 Posted May 26, 2012 Author Report Posted May 26, 2012 I used the inline six set-up from Chebby---I also like the slant six conversion. I like my set up for the easy access--plus I have the room in the engine bay----the slant six conversion my be better for the smaller bays----- We do it because we can..........Lee Nice engine compartment. I like the black and yellow. Your the one that I had seen with the HEI in your pic. Is this a aftermarket setup or something that you did? One of the distributors I looked at that already has a tang on the end was the inline Chevy. Quote
1941Rick Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 The controller for the slant 6 is the only part you will see as different. The distributor is the same size as original. No room issues at all. I have a GM 6 dist and went with the slant 6 for the reasons you did not go with the slant six.....different strokes for different folks. Thats the beauty of keeping these old cars going. Everyone has their own ideas. you can always find something here you wished you had thought of. At the end of the day they burn gas and are cool to drive around. Quote
BeBop138 Posted May 26, 2012 Report Posted May 26, 2012 Nice engine compartment. I like the black and yellow. Your the one that I had seen with the HEI in your pic. Is this a aftermarket setup or something that you did? One of the distributors I looked at that already has a tang on the end was the inline Chevy. The oil pump tang on the Chev dizzy just has to be filled down a bit to fit the oil pump. Triming down the housing was no big deal---just put it on the lathe and took off the collar on the housing so it would slid in farther. The stock plate hold down works the same. The only thing was to re-curve the dizzy to the flattie specs----this I had done by a buddy that owned a tune up shop. He had done it on his 38 Ply and we just copied his idea. Picked up the dizzy at a U-Pull-It for $20 bucks---his help was free and I think I had about $50 bucks total in it. Cheaper than Langdon`s and I think a better product---I just didn`t like Toms Hei...my 2cents.....Lee Quote
falconvan Posted May 28, 2012 Report Posted May 28, 2012 That sounds very good, what major or even minor difference can be expected by installing this set-up? I had a high RPM miss I just couldnt get rid of and the car vibrated at idle. I had new points, condensor, cap, rotor,plugs, wires, and coil but it still wouldnt completely go away. All that's gone now, it idles very smooth, power is better, plus I dont have to lean over the fender and try to see that point gap to adjust it. Quote
steve57dodgetruck Posted May 28, 2012 Report Posted May 28, 2012 Maybe I'm missing something in the question, but I'm using the pertronix electrical setup that eliminates points etc. I know others are because I was turned onto idea here. It couldn't be simpler to install, maintains the stock dizzy and cap and is invisible unless you take the cap off. It has worked well for me. Quote
thrashingcows Posted May 28, 2012 Report Posted May 28, 2012 Just fired my motor for the first time. I did the electronic slant six/flathead dizzy hybrid conversion. Seems to work very well. Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 28, 2012 Report Posted May 28, 2012 Dale...this is what I'm running in my P15, and have been for over five years. Darin http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#ecwid:category=361515&mode=product&product=1222043 Geez Darin, How is this working out now? Follow these links. Read all postings for the full story. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=10654&highlight=langdon http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=26328&highlight=langdon Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 29, 2012 Report Posted May 29, 2012 thanks Don..I remember these threads and you repostng them does show all the concern and support that Tom does give the members here in support of buying his products.. Quote
yourpc48 Posted June 10, 2012 Author Report Posted June 10, 2012 Thanks to everyone for the comments and pics. I have decided to start out with the slant 6 conversion and have one that should arrive Monday. Any tips in making the conversion process go smoothly? Quote
Daliant. Posted June 10, 2012 Report Posted June 10, 2012 The hardest part is turning the housing down .030" where it goes into the block. If you have a lathe or access to one it's no problem. When I made mine I ran a 1/2" bolt though the empty housing, chucked it into my drill press and held a file against it to take the .030" off. The rest is just swapping parts around. Quote
yourpc48 Posted June 10, 2012 Author Report Posted June 10, 2012 The hardest part is turning the housing down .030" where it goes into the block. If you have a lathe or access to one it's no problem. When I made mine I ran a 1/2" bolt though the empty housing, chucked it into my drill press and held a file against it to take the .030" off. The rest is just swapping parts around. I dont have a lathe or a drill press right now but my plan is similar to yours. run a bolt or redi-rod through and turn it with my drill chucked into the vise. "Instant lathe". Then a file and some sandpaper. I will have to pick up a micrometer since I dont think I will want to constantly pull it apart for fitting. Quote
40P10touring sedan Posted June 10, 2012 Report Posted June 10, 2012 The oil pump tang on the Chev dizzy just has to be filled down a bit to fit the oil pump. Triming down the housing was no big deal---just put it on the lathe and took off the collar on the housing so it would slid in farther. The stock plate hold down works the same. The only thing was to re-curve the dizzy to the flattie specs----this I had done by a buddy that owned a tune up shop. He had done it on his 38 Ply and we just copied his idea. Picked up the dizzy at a U-Pull-It for $20 bucks---his help was free and I think I had about $50 bucks total in it. Cheaper than Langdon`s and I think a better product---I just didn`t like Toms Hei...my 2cents.....Lee Do you recall how much had to be taken off..I emailed langdon about the use of his headers and his hei setup on a 25" block, and about some carbs about 3 weeks ago and still no reply... I think Moose here could revamp the springs...maybe I could find someone local too, but not like it used to be. Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted June 10, 2012 Report Posted June 10, 2012 I did an electronic conversion on another make of car by adapting the Ford thick film ignition module to a points distributor. It works much better than the original and cheaper too. By using the matching Ford coil it gives a very powerful spark. Some have the module in the distributor, some are remote mount on a finned heat sink. Those are better, the ones on the distributor sometimes overheat and fail. The points will last almost indefinitely because they act only as a trigger and do not carry the full amperage of the ignition. Just check them for wear once a year and add a dab of grease. Quote
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