It's "no go" after second attempt...

[Jim Saraceno]

Jim, here's my 53 timing pointer. Looks like you got an oddball timing cover on the rebuilt. Might be fine if the pulley matched the cover but they must have done a mix and match. The more I look at your black cover, I can see where the original pointer used to be attached.

Your '53 timing pointer is the same as my '55 timing pointer (the silver one). I see the dent on my timing cover, but i really don't think it was moved, I think they probably changed the location at some point. I just think the cover is from one year and the damper is from another so they don't match.

What year is your new engine? There was a guy a year or so ago on this forum and on the POC forum who had a late 50's Plymouth and had the same basic issues you were having with timing. Makes me wonder when this change with the timing pointer came about.

The rebuilt engine is from a '57, my old engine is from a '55. I have asked that very question about when they made that change over at POC, so I'll see if anyone over there knows.

I haven't gone back to work on it much since I figured out the timing issue. I was getting so frustrated that I needed to step back for a while, calm down and try again later. I'm still concerned about the 80 - 100 #s torque it takes to turn the engine with the spark plugs removed. "Baby steps... baby steps..."

[jd52cranbrook]

= I'm still concerned about the 80 - 100 #s torque it takes to turn the engine with the spark plugs removed."

I would be too

[Suddensix]

Jim, Were the bearings checked for proper clearance when the engine was built? All it takes is one to be a little tight and it will be tough to turn over. I'd be more worried about this than it not starting. Maybe the fact that it won't start is a blessing in disguise!

.

[Jim Saraceno]

Were the bearings checked for proper clearance when the engine was built?

Yes, I plastigauged all the bearings, rod and main. Everything was within spec.

[Normspeed]

Jim, did you see Jim Wheeldon's post about the fogging oil? Maybe if you get the initial timing right you can get it to fire on some fogging oil. Good lubricant for those cylinders too.

[jimwheeldon]

I actually got my engine running tonight!!!! It was a jubilant 5 minutes. Then the carb flooded and she stopped. I am confident it will run again-it sounded amazingly good after it's 40 years of slumber in the trees. Jim, I'd try the fogging oil...it's highly combustible yet offers a good deal of lubrication. I would venture to guess your upper end is your point of friction just like mine. Take your plugs out...crank it a little , then spray a 10 count of fogging oil in each cylinder and crank it over again. If it doesn't turn over any faster then you know the friction lies elsewhere. I wish you the best...heaven knows I can feel your pain.

[greg g]

Jim, congrats on gettin the engine started. If the carb overflowed, the float is stuck misadjusted or, the needle and seat are dirty. This is a fairly easy fix. Just pull the top of the carb and check it out. there is a retainer clip securing the pivoting end of the float. Pull this straight up, and then grab the little tab that closed the needle with pin nose pliers and pull that straight up mind the metal pin that the float pivots on. This will allpw you toacces the needle and seat to see if it is clean or ther might be som goo preventing it to close all the way. You can also check you float for leaks. as a leaky float will not seal the needle. Check it by shaking it a bit (after you remove and secure the pivot pin) if you heas sloshing it has a pin hole leak. These are easily repaired with solder. Put it in soome boiling water till all the gas is evaporated out, You should also be able to find the leak as air bubbles will come out the hole/s. Good luck, enjoy your progress

[Jim Yergin]

Please excuse my ignorance, but where do you get "fogging oil?"

Jim Yergin

[Normspeed]

It's an aerosol oil used for winter storage of boat motors. Most boat dealers or suppliers sell it. Coats the cylinders and stuff for storage.

[Don Coatney]

Fogging found it on the bay.

[Jim Saraceno]

Jim, I'd try the fogging oil..

Interesting. sounds good. I had never heard of it before but it's definitely on my "to do" list now.

I haven't had a chance to get back to the engine and won't this weekend either. Probably the following weekend will be the first time I have a chance to work on it. I want to wait until I have a whole day that is uninterrupted to work on her. If things don't go well after another day's work, I'll have to re-evaluate the situation.

[FMSPEED49]

I used it on my boat last winter, cut power to the fuel pump, as it ran out of fuel at thew carb, kept it running for a minute or so more with the fog oil, and shut her down. Fast forward to now, hooked up fuel pump and let it run for a minute, and cranked it over, fired like i had just shut it down.

now i use it in the boat and the bikes, and ill shut down the '49 with it if i know it's gonna be sitting for a few weeks.

the brand i have and use is "STA-BIL Fogging Oil"

• Coats internal engine components to prevent corrosion.

• Displaces moisture from metal to protect engine.

• Lubricates cylinders to prevent cylinder damage (scuffing) at start up.

• For all 2 cycle and 4 cycle gasoline engines.

(from their web site)

http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/index.htm

[Young Ed]

The 51 plymouth that was given to me hadn't been started since the 80s. The owner told me he had fogged it the last time it ran. Started right up with no stuck valves etc after probably 20 years.

[Lou Earle]

Although I have not done it Many folks have told me they just run some oil - a lot thru the car until engine shuts down if they are not going to run it for several months. The say it protects the walls etc. Anyone been there done that?

Lou