lower rear shackle bushing passenger side

[pflaming]

I need the rear shackle bushing on the passenger side for a '52 1/2 ton. I had to use a pipe wrench to get it out and elongated the head thus the zerk hole. I could jerry-rig it but preferr not to.

Does any one have one?

Edit: In my search reading I noted that the spring ends do not have threads, if it feels like it does that is the remains of rust build up. So if the bushing goes on the shackle without the aid of a wrench, but goes on HARD when attempting to install the spring, then one is fighting those rust ridges. Is that fair question? If so then one could/should run a reem through the sping eye and thus smooth the inside of that eye and remove those rust ridges.

That bushing must rotate back and forth to move the grease and if it goes in hard then it will not rotate and work as it should. I do not like the thought but I am going to remove the bushing that is in the other spring and free it up some how. The bushing then is, in fact, a long nut/bushing. It holds the spring via the long threads and the bushings head. The spring eye should be snug but not TIGHT. Such is my conclusion, will look much more closely at this tomorrow. I may not need a bushing after all.

Studying "Paradise Lost"/ Chaucer/ Shakespeare/Boetheus/Wordsworth was nothing compared to the intricicies of this truck. Love it/hate it.

Paul

Edited May 7, 2012 by pflaming

[TodFitch]

Assuming you have the "silent U" spring shackles on that...

Actually the bushing does not rotate with respect to the spring so it can go in "hard". The screwing motion is between the U-bolt thing and the shackle bushing. The bushing should be screwed in while you are installing the U bolt thing: Align the spring and U where they should be then screw in the bushing.

I no longer have spares and there are some variations on size so the ones for my '33 may not have been correct for your truck anyway... I think that Rare Parts has them but I don't know if they will sell single bushings or if you have to buy a whole kit with both bushings and the U.

[pflaming]

Todd: So then what is actually happening is that the bushing is being 'pressed' into the spring's eye and the outer threads assist the inner threads as the bushing goes in. It goes in hard because of the friction of the outer threads against the spring's eye, yet there are no threads in the springs' eye.

Rust forming over years between the threads then make for a difficult removal.

That understood, I can use the bushing I have and leave the other where it is. That said, it is the inner part of the busing that wears out, not necessarily the outer surface.

I hope this is all correct.

[TodFitch]

Todd: So then what is actually happening is that the bushing is being 'pressed' into the spring's eye and the outer threads assist the inner threads as the bushing goes in. It goes in hard because of the friction of the outer threads against the spring's eye, yet there are no threads in the springs' eye.

Rust forming over years between the threads then make for a difficult removal.

That understood, I can use the bushing I have and leave the other where it is. That said, it is the inner part of the busing that wears out, not necessarily the outer surface.

I hope this is all correct.

Not sure if you can use the bushing you have or not, but the wear area is or should be the threads on the inside of the bushing and/or the threads on the U. And those threads take the side thrust so you want them to be in good condition.

Like many things the Chrysler engineers did back then, those shackles will last a long time if properly lubricated but will wear out in a hurry if let go dry. A little like the Detroit ball and trunnion U-joints in that regard.

By the way, the later parts book on the car side show a 0.010 oversized bushing. I guess if the bushing started turning in the spring it would wear the spring eye enough that a larger bushing was needed...

[48Dodger]

Try watching these paul...maybe they will answer some of your questions. The bushing screws onto the shackle and should not back out or slide off. If it does, its worn beyond use. In fact most bad bushings are worn thin to the point of cracking on the weight bearing side, which tells me they don't have a habit of rotating. Just make sure to square up the ends of your leaf springs so your axle doesn't carry any lateral forces, etc.

48D

[Young Ed]

Also check wwII jeep suppliers for parts. I've heard from a couple guys on the 39-47 group that do military vehicles that those jeeps used the same system with just a slightly shorter U piece.

[HanksB3B]

I keep an alphabetized word doc of pilothouse threads with copy/paste links about specific topics. Here's a couple I found under "Springs and Shackles".

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=26019&highlight=spring+shackles

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=30228

Have fun,

Hank

[pflaming]

I got mine to go back in. All the suspension is now in and tightened for the first time around. Now to the brake lines. What a job, expecially from floor level. After a time I may put the truck on a lift and put in all new bushings and shackles but not now.

Paul