Mark D Posted November 26, 2011 Report Posted November 26, 2011 So I scored a pair of stone guards on eBay that where mislabeled. The guy selling them said he bought them for his for a chevy but they didn't fit because they where too long. It was a $34- gamble that paid off! First question, these things have four threaded studs on the back. What type of fastener would be appropriate? Is it as simple as a SS nut/washer combo? I'm pretty sure it's all accesible. Second question, after the holes are drilled, is there a good antirust agent that should be applied to the bare metal, or maybe just a rubber washer? This area is exposed to weather so I'm thinking minimal rust prevention would be sound expense. PS it pays to scrub all areas of ebay if you're really looking for something. Quote
JohnTeee Posted November 26, 2011 Report Posted November 26, 2011 They don't look 'correct' for you vehicle. I'll take the right side one off your hands to match the left side one I already have . . . Nice find! Cheers! John Quote
greg g Posted November 26, 2011 Report Posted November 26, 2011 You might think about a small rubber washer on each side of the fender hole. You could also just put some silicone around the stud. Brass or stainless fastens should work fine. Quote
Mark D Posted November 26, 2011 Author Report Posted November 26, 2011 They fit! But it's gonna take me a couple days to gather up the gumption to drill the holes.. Greg, I like the double rubber washer idea. Gonna use that one, backed up by a flat washer and hopefully I can find a stainless lock-nut as well. If not I'll just double up the nuts. There's a slight over lap of the fender skirts as seen in the photo, I think some tweaking of the skirts in the opening is all thats needed. Quote
yourpc48 Posted November 28, 2011 Report Posted November 28, 2011 like the rubber washer trick with stainless nuts and washers. I try to shy away from silicon since many silicones have a chemical that will eat into your paint and make it blister and rust. If you want to use a compound of some sort try using the 3m glass bedding compound suggested by steele rubber for sealing the windshield gasket to the body. It firms up but will still be removable. I can relate to the building up courage thing. When I chopped the top on my 36 Ford PU 20+ years ago, as I cut along the lines I had marked I was thinking..... I can still fix that! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 28, 2011 Report Posted November 28, 2011 I personally like to use the 3M dum dum compound when mounting trim items..it does not dry out and does not harm the paint either..get it at your local auto body supply house..great sealing about anywhere ont eh body...especially good for the removable plug for master cylinder access in the floor.. Quote
yourpc48 Posted November 28, 2011 Report Posted November 28, 2011 I personally like to use the 3M dum dum compound when mounting trim items..it does not dry out and does not harm the paint either..get it at your local auto body supply house..great sealing about anywhere ont eh body...especially good for the removable plug for master cylinder access in the floor.. Yep thats good stuff too. The compound I was talking about acts the same way only it is thinner at first. Quote
JohnTeee Posted December 19, 2011 Report Posted December 19, 2011 Care to share some close-ups of how your mounting went. I've got to figure out where to drill mine too. Cheers! John Quote
Mark D Posted December 19, 2011 Author Report Posted December 19, 2011 Well, my excuse is, I had to wait for the cereal boxes... I've decided to make templates of the guards so when I drill the holes, it's a one and done experience. Works had me side tracked here in Columbus, so the templates and the guards will likely wait for my week off between Christmas and new years. One thing I found after I made the templates was that the studs on the guards are definitely not mirror image. It appears as though they where attached wherever the mfr felt like doing it that shift. I'll post photos of the install for future posterity as I'm doing the deed. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 19, 2011 Report Posted December 19, 2011 while not a mirror image they should be somewhat close to the same fixing points...to the best of my memory and by looking at some of the fender I have here that use factory stone guards..the mount holes are a bit enlarged and will allow for some shifting for proper position at which time you secure with a larger washer behind the nut to ensure you get the meat of the fender..I do sugest that if the stud(s) mount on a curved section that the backing washer be curved to match this shape also.. Quote
Young Ed Posted December 19, 2011 Report Posted December 19, 2011 Also because the object is curved the holes need to be bigger in order to lineup with the entire length of the stud. My car has them too. One side has about 1/2 in holes and the other side even bigger. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 19, 2011 Report Posted December 19, 2011 Ed..on my 54 Plymouth I found that the holes for the stone guard were smaller on the passenger side and larger on the driver's side..and to top that..for some reason the driver's side had an extra hole..what and why I cannot begin to guess..what amazed me even more is that all thes body mounting holes had not sign of rust even around the edges of the hole...everyone was intact and as prstine as the day they were factory punched..now for the kicker and the reason I use the stuff on reassembly...they had dum dum putty on them from the factory Quote
Young Ed Posted December 19, 2011 Report Posted December 19, 2011 My car had a replacement fender on the pass side with a completely different style of stone guard installed. So one of the two installers was less careful. Quote
aero3113 Posted December 19, 2011 Report Posted December 19, 2011 Be careful installing them, if you tighten the nuts to much they can pull the stainless and leave a indent. Quote
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