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Waterpump Shaft Leak ???


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Posted

On the greasable water pumps, do the shaft seals go dry over time, and leak, or is just a wear thing.

I just filled the 55 with wtaer to check for any leaks, none, except a slight drip from water pump shaft.

Is this thing done, or would a shot of grease, in shaft zerk help seal it up, I am thinking it is replacement time.....

Posted

At least on the older designs, there is a spring loaded flat micarta type piece inside the impeller that runs as a seal against the body. There is another rubber seal between the micarta board and the shaft itself.

So basically the seals are such that water should never get into the bushings.

The wear issues I had before I discovered that I was using way to much tension on my fan belt seemed to have the following characteristics:

1. Any wear in the bushings means the shaft runs at an angle.

2. The interior seal does not work well if cocked at an angle so you get a little leakage into the bushing.

3. Coolant leaking into the bushings wash out lubricant.

4. Lack of lubricant means more bushing wear which means more leakage by the seal.

Two observations: I've been able to get a leaky water pump that was also starting to be noisy in service for a lot longer than I ever could with a modern one. Back when I was traveling cross country in my '33 I was able to go about 1500 miles with a bad water pump by simply putting some grease in it every time I stopped for gas. Contrast that with a '91 Jeep where the onset of noise to total failure was about 150 miles.

Second observation: Once I started keeping the fan belt a bit looser that I would for a new car, I haven't had a water pump failure. And no issues with a slipping belt causing cooling or charging issues.

If you've got a 1935 or up engine, then you can get a new water pump. Go for it when you can, but you can probably also get a few miles out of an older one by just greasing it frequently. For 1933 and 34, the inlet to the block is different and either a custom water pump back plate is needed or you need to rebuild your original water pump core. In my case I've acquired a second pump and have it rebuilt on the shelf waiting for the day it is needed.

Posted

Thanx Tod and Rob, used straight water for a test, it leaks a bit, but have not started this engine yet. I did give the waterpump 2 shots of grease. I will try it again, when I set to start this sucker, which will be soon.

This engine has not been run since 2005 or 2006, but was a daily type driver, till the owner figured the body should go ona more modern Chebby truck chassis, the whole truck burnt later, now that was a lesson...

Posted

Well the water pump I installed on the engine, has a lot of shaft play, did not check prior to installing, my fault.

I did find another ina box of parts, it has no shaft play, turns well, and the back plate is in decent shape.

I cleaned her up and painted it too.

I have no idea if this 1 is a dud or not. But I am not shelling out $85.00 right now, on an engine I have no way of knowing a this point if it is running well, or if it is a dud too.

The water pump isa more modern internal by-pass type, with the extra hole, which is good for my 55 fargo engine, plus it has the 2 thread holes on top for the fitting to allow the short hose to go to the t/stat housing.

I will install tomorrow.....

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Posted

Fred it'd have to be a pretty major dud to not be good enough for at least engine testing. Sounds like its one of the more fits all types with the internal bypass or the holes on top to mount the external piece.

Posted
Fred it'd have to be a pretty major dud to not be good enough for at least engine testing. Sounds like its one of the more fits all types with the internal bypass or the holes on top to mount the external piece.

The other one , that is on the engine still has a shaft leak, so it would have been okay to start the engine, but, not to pour in antifreeze to let it sit.

If this pump is good, I have 3 gallons of antifreeze that can be poured in. The truck will be going outside once it is good and darn cold, and I think you knwo what I mean Ed......

Posted
The other one , that is on the engine still has a shaft leak, so it would have been okay to start the engine, but, not to pour in antifreeze to let it sit.

If this pump is good, I have 3 gallons of antifreeze that can be poured in. The truck will be going outside once it is good and darn cold, and I think you knwo what I mean Ed......

Sure do. Dad has a flathead powered 46 dodge truck that sits out at the cabin in WI. Gets -50 up there at times. My car and truck are indoors but they are still good to about -40 since they are in unheated buildings.

Posted
Going a little off topic. I see you have "eyebrows" on your Crashler from your third picture. Where did you get them? JC Whitney no longer has them. Who does?

These were a gift about 4 years ago. The friend who gave them to me bought them from a Speed Shop in Winnipeg Manitoba, not sure who supplies them.

I am visiting this friend tomorrow night, will ask for some details.....

Posted
These were a gift about 4 years ago. The friend who gave them to me bought them from a Speed Shop in Winnipeg Manitoba, not sure who supplies them.

I am visiting this friend tomorrow night, will ask for some details.....

Thanks.

Posted
Sure do. Dad has a flathead powered 46 dodge truck that sits out at the cabin in WI. Gets -50 up there at times. My car and truck are indoors but they are still good to about -40 since they are in unheated buildings.

Sounds colder there than here. Even in an unheated building, a -35, it will be about -20, building make a big difference. My heavily insulated garage will be around 20-25 f, when it is -30 outside, and that is without heat on. Bringing in warm cars, heats the building up a bit.....

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