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Posted

Hey everyone. I put in 3" lowering blocks on my 53 Plymouth cranbrook today. It looks great but now I have ran into troubles with my driveline. It knocks like crazy. I went under there and I can move the driveline back and forth with my hand. From engine to rear end travel. It looks like the rubber boots have split so I am thinking from raising my rear axle up, I jave taken the rake out of the driveline and pretty much made it run even with the transmission. Which wouldake my driveline shorter?? What the hell do I do now?? It has the hydrive transmission in it still. Has anyone had this problem?

Posted
Hey everyone. I put in 3" lowering blocks on my 53 Plymouth cranbrook today. It looks great but now I have ran into troubles with my driveline. It knocks like crazy.

I would suggest you remove the lowering blocks.

Posted

hmmm, lets see you changed the position of the rear end in relationship to the tail end of the transmission, and you have also changed the angle at which the driveshaft was designed to operate, and changed the arc through which the rear axle moves. any one of these is contrary to the engineering of the vehicle and the combination throws all that engineering out the window. Your dirve shaft is probably trying to work in a fully compressed length at all times. Wonder why it might want to bind up and clunk?

Drive shafts and universals are not designed to work in a straight line. Look up pinion angle, and try to understand what your modification has done to that concept.

Posted

It is normal for there to be a little front to rear movement on the drive shaft on these cars. When you installed the lowering blocks did you unbolt the drive shaft? Is it bolted back on right, got the circular end plate nested into the rear end pinyon right?

Posted

I have had the clutch rebuilt, and he did take the driveline off. But I have drove it before the blocks were put on and she drove fine. I know I am not the only person who has put 3" blocks on their car before, I just need to know what to do from here. Take my driveline to be lengthened??

Posted
But I have drove it before the blocks were put on and she drove fine. I know I am not the only person who has put 3" blocks on their car before, I just need to know what to do from here. Take my driveline to be lengthened??

Spend the money and go for it! Then when that does not work try removing the blocks.

What is your goal? A car that drives or a car that you cannot drive?

Posted

Lengthen it??? It you can't move it forward and backward, what make you think a longer one is the answer. I think I would be pulling it to check the condition of the Universals.

Posted

The drive shaft is not hitting anything. I checked everywhere. It is definitely something in the shaft. The rubber boots that connect to the tail shaft are split and leaking oil for some reason now. This is really starting to suck....

Posted

I researched u joints, and I believe that is my problem. I you tubed a bad joint sound and it was dead on what I am hearing. A bad clunking noise when I go into gear, and when I accelerate. The rubber boots were already split and worn exposing the u joint. It was just a matter of time untill they failed. And I think when I changes the angle of the shaft with the lowering, it caused them to go early. At least I can still buy them and the whole kit to replace both ends is 250 bucks... No sweat.. I think by the time I get her where I want, I will have rebuilt the whole damn car!!! LOL..

Posted

Why don't you have a new shaft made with modern joints for a hundred bucks more or so you can have a new shaft with new style joints and not have to worry about it. If you shaft has no end to end movement, you still have a problem.

Posted

There is end to end movement... It just clunks real bad when driving and putting it into gear. And where the rubber boot goes into the transmission, there is oil coming out now. I am going to call my driveline shop on Monday and see what they say. But I know it is my ujoints now.

Posted

Replace the old worn out driveshaft with a modern shaft and set up the correct shaft angles.

Posted

You mention that you can move the driveshaft some for and aft. There is a spring in each U joint that will allow such movement. If one or both springs are broke, then this might cause some sloppy end play. When removing the drive shaft, I compress it (which compresses the U joint springs) some after removing the bolts and this allows the shaft to be removed easily from the rear end.

Posted

I am going to get under there and take a good look at the u joints. I am almost positive this is my problem. I don't know why I am getting leakage of oil from the split boot at the tail shaft though. Maybe the u joint has a broken seal or something.... Someone else was saying maybe I need to move up my driveline hangers. Whatever that might be.

Posted

The original U joints with leather or rubber boots were supposed to have oil or grease in them to lubricate the joint, once there is a hole in the boot the lubricant will leak out........if it was me I'd go for replacing the whole shaft with one from a car that has the normal cross style uni joints.........andyd

Posted

I took video of my driveline. I went underneath and rotated it with my hand side to side, so that someone could hear the sound it is making. If anyone wants to shoot me their email, I can send the video for you to tell what the heck it is.

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