Young Ed Posted June 30, 2011 Report Posted June 30, 2011 Contemplating reinstalling the fresh air box/plenum in my 48. I thought a couple years back when I removed it that I saw the seals for it on Steeles sight. I don't see them now. Anyone know if they are available-perhaps some place else? There are 2 seals one for the box to the cowl and one for the door at the bottom that allows fresh air from the vent to enter the car correctly. Quote
55 Fargo Posted June 30, 2011 Report Posted June 30, 2011 I would be inerested to know to Ed. I also have this item to restore..........Fred Quote
55 Fargo Posted July 1, 2011 Report Posted July 1, 2011 Here is a picture of a dual heater set-up, on a 47 Chrysler Windsor parts car, this pic was taken, when I first got the car... Quote
Young Ed Posted July 1, 2011 Author Report Posted July 1, 2011 Fred that's how my car looked when I got it too. I found a dodge town sedan with this setup in the junkyard. I thought I took a photo of it before I removed it but its not in my photobucket. Might be on the home PC. Anyway the dodge had steel lines along the head and firewall for a much cleaner install. The elbows all have DPCD cast into them so I know its the real deal. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Posted September 6, 2011 Well whether I get it installed or not remains to be seen but I started fixing up the parts. Here's what I've got done so far. For some reason I forgot to paint the ends that attach to the 2 heater units. Now is the small miracle of figuring out how all this goes back together after removing it from the car about 5 years ago! Quote
55 Fargo Posted September 6, 2011 Report Posted September 6, 2011 Hi Ed, do you have the exploded view diagram, I have seen one before that should help with assembly. Hey if you have or find this diagram please post, I have one of these untis too, that is going to get the once over... Quote
randroid Posted September 6, 2011 Report Posted September 6, 2011 Gents, It appears in Fred's photo that the water lines are connected backwards. Sticking my neck out a bit here because I've never seen one of these setups, but the "hot" water lines from the block seem to be going in on the bottom and the "cold" water lines are exiting from the top, which is contrary to natural convection flow. Is there a logical explanation for this that eludes me? -Randy Quote
Young Ed Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Posted September 6, 2011 Not sure mine seems to be the same way though. I copied what was on there. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Posted September 6, 2011 Fred does your heater box look like mine? I just got off the phone with Steele and they said the fresh air heater seal they show doesn't fit plymouth its for Chrysler Dodge Desoto only. They also did say its for a pair of seals and as far as I can tell only 1 is needed per car. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 6, 2011 Report Posted September 6, 2011 most heat exchangers are fed from the bottom and taken off the top..think this keeps them purged of air.. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 6, 2011 Report Posted September 6, 2011 Another firewall pic of the early steel tube 6 cyl. install setup. All rubber hose type was a later factory/dealer installation as best I have learned. My 46 8 cyl chrysler uses this earlier steel tube installation. Quote
randroid Posted September 6, 2011 Report Posted September 6, 2011 Tim, Thanks, that makes sense but it sure caught my eye. -Randy Quote
Young Ed Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Posted September 6, 2011 Well even though the person answering the phone at Steele told me that the heater pieces wouldn't fit between Chrysler and Plymouth I went ahead and ordered. I also ordered the 2 grommets for the lower hoses which say they fit Chrysler Dodge Desoto and Plymouth with model 53,54 comfort master heaters. So that seems to point towards it fitting. We'll see what it looks like when it gets here. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Posted September 13, 2011 Rubber parts from Steele haven't arrived yet. Been working on the other pieces. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Posted September 13, 2011 Stuck on two things. The linkage for the door has a spring but I'm not sure where it goes. Also the door doesn't seem to close properly. When you move the lever against what appears to be the other stop on the linkage the top of the door is sticking out of the opening and the bottom is maybe close enough to where it would seal shut. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Posted September 13, 2011 Any suggestions for cleaning or redoing these filters? Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted September 13, 2011 Report Posted September 13, 2011 Ed, is that jute in the filter? You might want to let it soak in dishwashing liquid and then set it in the sun to dry. Might want to vacuum it first. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Posted September 13, 2011 Ed, is that jute in the filter? You might want to let it soak in dishwashing liquid and then set it in the sun to dry. Might want to vacuum it first. Joe I honestly don't know what it is. It looks sorta like steel wool and appears to be rusty on the one end? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 13, 2011 Report Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) Maybe these 5 pics will help some.. Spring goes as shown in the picture and door opens and closes easily too. Edited September 14, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Young Ed Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) Do you still have that kit? I could use a measurement of the top seal to the body. And it looks like spring goes from that tab to the pin that holds the lever on. I tried it there and couldnt move the door. Edited September 13, 2011 by Young Ed Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 13, 2011 Report Posted September 13, 2011 Ed, I still have the kit. What measurement do you need. Later today I could get it out and get some better pics of what you need. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Posted September 13, 2011 Well I hopefully have a new gasket coming for the fresh air door. However no one makes the gasket that seals the unit to the body so a good description/measurement of that would be awesome so I can find something to work. I'm still unclear where that spring goes from/to. Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted September 13, 2011 Report Posted September 13, 2011 interesting setup. lots of tubing and hoses, though... not exactly what you call a clean engine bay. but i love those fancy little extra stuff! it looks like the spring has to be hooked up in the little hole right above. seems to be quite a strong one, it sure can't be moved without the lever. as for the "filter" i would guess jute, as well. the rusty side sure looks like that because it had contact with rusty metal on that end. soaking and compressed air could help, but i think the best would be to remove it and put some of this fleece in there that is used to protect the motors of vacuum cleaners, or maybe filters for industrial kitchen fume hoods. cool project, ed! Quote
Young Ed Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Posted September 14, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the extra pics. Looks like fabing up the rubber for the top should be pretty straight forward. I either threw away what was left of mine or I never had it to begin with. And I think my lower door is bent at the hinges but once I get it assembled I should be able to tweak it. New gasket for the door came yesterday looks great. Be nice if Steele knew what it was selling. Edited September 15, 2011 by Young Ed Quote
Young Ed Posted September 15, 2011 Author Report Posted September 15, 2011 Got the top seal fabbed up and bent the hinges straighter so it shuts. Put the spring back and with the hinges bent back to position it works great. The hinges being bent are what made me thing the spring was in the wrong spot. I did also have to bend the stop for the arm over a little as it wasn't hitting the linkage. Quote
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