Young Ed Posted June 29, 2011 Report Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) Well beyond collecting parts and assembling a T5/flathead combohttp://p15-d24.com/topic/17701-my-own-t5-install-thread/ I've finally gotten a slight start on my build. The better chassis I have had a 47 cab on it. Last weekend the two cabs were swapped. Edited July 6, 2013 by Young Ed 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Posted June 29, 2011 Next step is to either refurbish or replace the cab mount bolts so that it will be ready to hit the road. Cab/chassis will have to be towed 120 miles home. Quote
Young Ed Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Posted June 29, 2011 nice! what will the paint job cost? Not much. Its either going to be a home spray job or possibly a roller paint job. Goal is to make the truck look like a 1940 truck would have looked in the 50s. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Posted June 29, 2011 Not much. Its either going to be a home spray job or possibly a roller paint job. Goal is to make the truck look like a 1940 truck would have looked in the 50s. I can hook you up with a really nice paint job from a guy...won't cost ya much...HA! Quote
Young Ed Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Posted June 29, 2011 I wish I could take your current paint job. It'd look perfect for my needs. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 29, 2011 Report Posted June 29, 2011 I wish I could take your current paint job. It'd look perfect for my needs. yah, well whilst pounding out dents I found more rust than I thought I had.... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 29, 2011 Report Posted June 29, 2011 get it ready Ed..we'll bomb that sucker here in the south... Quote
Young Ed Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Posted June 29, 2011 Hey Tim is that cab beyond an acid treatment for the surface rust? It was sandblasted about 5 years ago and left. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 29, 2011 Report Posted June 29, 2011 actually one may want to again lighlty blast the unit...key word, lightly..then it is a MUST for acid treatment as the microscopic pores will have oxide in them that you will not see with your eye..the rust will be converted to magnatite by the phosphoric acid...once dried..a good sealer is to be used..expoxy is one that most folks like but be sure that while in the tack state of the final layer of epoxy you spray a good primer surfacer that is compatable tith the epoxy so that you have good adhesion of the primer..if not the epoxy is hard to break bond when dry for the application of primer..else if you are not in a super hurry and summer is here...good ole rustoleum rusty metal primer will do the job of both..your call yor money your time...the new stuff is not any better for quality only better in sense of time needed between application/processes..any body that I have taken to bare metal has rustoleum as first primer..of course its been 23 years on my yellow car so I guess I am subject to failure yet...keeping my fingers crossed just in case.. 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Posted June 29, 2011 As its quite possible the final paint will be rustoleum too I'd probably go the rusty metal primer route. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 29, 2011 Report Posted June 29, 2011 PM sent..few tricks to be aware of.. Quote
Young Ed Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Posted June 29, 2011 Ok since its been blasted once already I can tell whats going to need repair. Should I weld the patches in before or after sand blasting? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 29, 2011 Report Posted June 29, 2011 probably be best before...good clean metal to make a full perimeter weld...have you ever cut, stepped the metal and patched with a drop in panel then lead or weld as you see fit? Quote
Young Ed Posted October 2, 2012 Author Report Posted October 2, 2012 Did a little more couple weekends ago. Finally got the engine up off the cart to finish swapping the oil pans. I gave the front sump to Ggdad1951 and finally got it switched over to the rear sump my truck needs. Didn't want to install the engine hanging on the hoist so I layed it on a makeshift table from sawhorses 2x4s and plywood. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Posted November 4, 2012 Another development. Since Dads 40 plymouth pickup came home we went and cleaned out leftovers at the resto shop. Here's what the first trip brought home. Keep in mind there are also p15 and p24 leftovers in this pile too. This cab is actually decent so it might became the basis for the build and its actually a 40 ply cab. Biggest issues are the messed up dash and some pretty serious rust where the floor meets the back of the cab. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Posted November 5, 2012 maybe save some of the harder to find stuff JIC my BIL decides to go for that Dodge....I'll know more in about a week if he's gonna go for the project or not. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Posted November 8, 2012 Started dash removal. As you can see its not in good shape. These dashes are welded in so removal is fairly complicated. Thanks to Tim A for setting me straight on the spot weld cutter. Started cutting some welds. There are still ~6 welds per side that are on the vertical edge of the dash and non-spot welds to cut. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Posted November 8, 2012 This is what the dash looks like when removed. Unfortunately this is a post war dash and while it will fit its slightly different that what should be in my 40. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 3, 2013 Author Report Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) Cold winter day here and since I don't care much about the super bowl I spent part of the afternoon seeing if the 53-54 dodge sedan gauges I got from Keven would fit in to my 40 plymouth housings. Some of it seems like change for the sake of change but the main goal will be hopefully replacing the stock speedometer with the matching one from the cars. I had Captain GTX measure the ones in his car and he got 4 3/4 diameter for the speedometer. Measuring the face of a truck one I have lose I came just shy of that. Its close enough that I feel I still have a chance at it. The other benefit would be a 1 wire sending unit fuel gauge and a electrical vs mechanical temp. Now the actual matching 53-54 temp would be mech but the one Keven sent it elec but doesn't quite match the others. I believe I will be able to just swap faces to make it match. Ok here's the pics: Old vs new side by side. You can see they fit but the temp would require some mods to the back plate. The oil gauge was lacking its mounting plate so I swapped over the truck one. Due to the rivets I don't think this would be too easy on the temp one. Amp gauge required swapping the old mounting plate. Fuel has rivets so it would require drilling a hole and trimming the corner off to retain the light. Here they are put together. Obviously this is just a test. The final product would need cleaned up glass repainted housings etc. I was thinking of painting the background a diff color but the only other one that goes with the gauge color is silver and I don't think the #s would show up well that. Edited February 3, 2013 by Young Ed Quote
B1B Keven Posted February 3, 2013 Report Posted February 3, 2013 Cool! Looks like you've figured it out! You know, after looking at the gauge pods you're working with, I wonder if the 'top swinging' gauges from the '49-'50 trucks would be a better option? I could modify the faces shown in the last pic? Quote
Young Ed Posted February 3, 2013 Author Report Posted February 3, 2013 Thanks Mark. Now we need to go junkyarding so I can find a few pieces to finish it off like a speedometer. 1 Quote
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