Clock work revisited

[Mark D]

Yesterday I bought a Borg clock off ebay for 45$, a heck of a lot cheaper than the 675$ plymouth version currently on ebay. It came out of a 1948 Desoto, so I figured the clock can't be too different from the one that broken in my car. Photos attached show the clocks side by side. After some work I've stripped them both down and found my plymouth clock was a mess, all stuck up with some green goo that was most likely a past effort to lubricate. The Desoto version was clean, but there was one spring balance that was loose which i tightened. I tried the clock with some battery power and the solenoid wound once, however it would not remain ticking. Im unsure how these are supposed to work, Im thinking that they may need constant power to run? Can anyone confirm that? So my plan going into this is to replace the dead plymouth clock guts with the good Desoto clock guts. What I've found is that the time set rod is the only difference in the two works. When I get more time I will swap the rear frames from both works and that should do the trick as it will position the rod closer to the center of the clock. Stay tuned for more in this adventure...

First image shows the Plymough clock on top of the Desoto clock. Second image shows the Plymouth clock on the left. Third image shows the nice clean Desoto clock works on the right. By the way it appears that this clock has never been taken apart.

[Alshere59]

No the power does not have to be constant. It only uses power when the points close. You may want to try some contact cleaner from radio shack. Non lubricated. The use some light sewing machine oil to lubricate. A light touch with a point file if it is needed. Anyway thats as far as I can get you. Hope it helps.

I would clean both clocks before swapping parts you never know.

Also if you take the painted parts off a jewelry store may clean them in an ultrasound and lube for a good price. Never hurts to ask.

[plymouthasc]

I was surprised that the price to have a Plymouth clock rebuilt (not including painting the face or plating the bezel) is rather reasonable. I checked two places (Williamson Insturment and RS Guage) and as I recall the price was about $95 including replacement of any bad parts and a 1 - 2 year warranty. It seemed reasonable to me for an item that can be rather expensive to replace. I would go that route rather than mixing parts between two clocks.

[Andydodge]

Due to my tightarsed Scotish ancestry I refused to pay $700.00 for a nice NOS 1941 plymouth clock.........I downloaded a picture of it, resized it and stuck the pic onto the reversed clock blockoff plate with a piece of clear plastic on top.............I now have a 1941 Plymouth clock that is correct twice a day, doesn't use any power to run and fills a hole isn the dash...........correct time apart from 2 seconds a day would be nice...........but.........lol.......Andy(tightwad) Douglas.

[Desotodav]

There's nothing wrong with your clock Andy - I thought that it was great anyway! I had to look twice to see what you were talking about. Maybe it was dark in your garage? or maybe I'm just a little slow? It may have even been that cool air south of the border? ...LOL... Good job mate!!!

Desotodav

[Andydodge]

Dave, you got back o/k.......lol...........btw you guys up there haven't had any rain in a few weeks..........want some?........lol..............Andyd in wet Grafton

[Jim Yergin]

I bought some clock cleaning solution I found for sale on the internet. I soaked the works in it and got my clock to run.

Jim Yergin

[Tones52]

I thought it best to add my question to this thread, but I'll start with some background.

 

With the help of an Australian friend, I mistakenly bought what's a non working 50 Dodge/Plymouth clock from a New Zealand auction site 'cause it was advertised to fit the 52 Plymouth. Lesson learned Anyway, I looked up the "Clock" threads on this forum and the Old Plymouths forum and got enough tips to open up the clock.

 

http://

 

I used compressed air to blow through the mechanism then sprayed it with the Radio Shack TV tuner cleaner/lubricant which helped to get the oscillating wheel to move more freely. I gently filed the points and used a lantern battery for power. I got to run for a good 20 minutes with a points opening/closing cycle of about 55 seconds rate. Then later when I tried to run it again, it would only go for a few cycles then the points would seem to be stuck in the closed position and I get the buzzing sound & arcing at the points.

 

I read where some have soaked his clock's mechanism in clock cleaning solution but would that include the electrical components as well?

 

I've nothing to compare it to but the electro-magnet mechansim seems just a tad resistant. I can certainly move it by hand but wonder if it's still dirty on the shaft or has the spring tension not what it used to be. Can I clean around that area carefully with say a hobby paint brush & acetone then later lubricate with clock oil? Here's a link to a short video of the clock ticking.

 

http://http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/ab195/Tones52/Cranbrook%20Engine%20and%20Trans/th_50%20Mopar%20Clock_zpslzftubmc.mp4

 

I do have a NOS clock for the 52 that came in its original box so my hope is to make this 50 clock work before tackling the 52 clock.

 

Thanks for any help/suggestions.

 

Tony

 

http://

Edited May 2, 2015 by Tones52

[Darbone85737]

Does the $ 675 Plymouth clock come from Long Island ?  LOL 

[46Ply]

I do tinker in clock repair.  And, I've found that about 90% of the time a clock quits running because it's dirty, especially where each of the pivots enter the bushing on the frame.  Most of the clocks presented here, would benefit from a good cleaning, and then a proper oiling of all the pivot bushings only.  (Not the gears.)

 

If you have access to clock cleaning solution, great!  But, You could use various other solvents.  I've even used brake cleaner.  Spray the mechanical portion of the clock, avoiding the rotor. (Motor)  Then blow it out thoroughly with air pressure.  Might do this a couple of times to be sure all the pivot bushings look thoroughly clean.  This area will accumulate dried hard grease/dirt.  And that's the area you want clean!  Then, give all the pivots a modest drop, (small) of oil on each one.

 

This advice comes from a self-taught non professional.  But, that's what I'd do with it.  And I might go so far as disassembly myself.  They aren't that difficult to put back together.  I would then use clock cleaning solution in an ultrasonic cleaner on each of the parts.  This would ensure a proper cleaning.

[Tones52]

Well Darbone, I've only heard the legend of the $675 Plymouth clock. LOL

 

Thanks 46Ply. I may try either the acetone or brake cleaner but using a hobby paint brush to keep spray off the clock face and electrical/motor components and see how that goes. Obviously this isn't the clock that goes in my '52 but it would be great to have it work smoothly. And the practice does me good before I start on the '52 clock.

 

I've spent hours messing with it so far and have enjoyed it so much. That someone built these clocks before or when I was born so fascinates me. I wonder what their lives were like, the communities they lived in from back in the day. Does it make sense or am I do for a break? LOL

[Niel Hoback]

It makes sense. I wind a clock in my room that's been running since 1885 when my wife's great grandparents bought it in Edgerton Ohio. I have part of the receipt.

[46Ply]

Darbone wrote:

(Thanks 46Ply. I may try either the acetone or brake cleaner but using a hobby paint brush to keep spray off the clock face and electrical/motor components and see how that goes.)

 

I'd use something out of a pressurized spray can, maybe WD-40, or such.  And use the small tube that goes with it.  Then you can direct it where you know it needs to be cleaned.  As long as it doesn't get inside the motor area you're good.  Give it a good dose.

Then blow it out forcefully with compressed air.  

One note, be careful with the balance wheel and especially that little hairspring inside it.  Don't want to mess that up.  Not too much forced air there.  Just be sure it's dry. 

 

Then oil as necessary.

Edited May 2, 2015 by 46Ply

[Don Coatney]

Edgerton, Ohio is real close to me. Should I go look for the rest of the receipt?

[Niel Hoback]

Stay away from there Don, I don't think its paid for yet.

[JohnS48plm]

After you get it going you need to solder a diode across the points to keep them from arcing.

[_shel_ny]

Clean the points, and try a real battery.

 

 

Edit: or more than one lantern battery in parallel

Edited May 3, 2015 by shel_ny

[Tones52]

I did a little Google search and found a PDF copy of the Skinned Knuckles article by M.H. Fox that mentioned using a diode as JohnSplym and Jim Yergin had mentioned in another thread. I think I get it, John but I may PM you on that one.

 

shl_ny, I take it that my lantern battery may not have enough punch for the clock. Would my battery charger work?

 

Thanks for the tips.