Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Started cleaning up my OD today. I replaced the gasket that goes behind the pinion bearing retainer in the front:

ODprep172.jpg

The rubber grommets that go in the bolt holes are shot. I'm going to have to find replacements somewhere:

ODprep173.jpg

This wire ran from the governor to the solenoid. Been searching my diagrams to see what gauge should be used on this transmission but haven't found anything yet.

ODprep176.jpg

ODprep170.jpg

Easy Off works well as a degreaser:

ODprep178.jpg

  • Replies 144
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Per my 46-53 shop manual all wiring in the solenoid circuit is #10 wire. The control circuit and ignition interupt circuit are #16(personally when I rewired my car I used 14 in place of all the 16). I should be able to scan this page if you need it.

Posted

This wire ran from the governor to the solenoid. Been searching my diagrams to see what gauge should be used on this transmission but haven't found anything yet.

Joe, It looks like I have that wire at work. Let me know if you want me to send you some. Not sure what gauge it is but sure it will work for you.

Posted

Make sure the gasket is not too thick on the front input shaft bearing retainer. The retainer needs to be semi tight up against the snap ring on the bearing to hold it tight against the case to prevent fore and aft movement of the input shaft/bearing assembly. The shop manual tells all about this. I usually use a .010" gasket and "MoPar Engine RTV" black.

Bob

Posted

Bob, the gasket material I got looks like it's very close to the original, if not the same. Also, I know it will crush some when I tighten the bolts. Maybe I should skip the paper gasket and go with RTV alone?

Keith, thanks for the offer but I believe that is just 10 or 12 gauge wire whose insulation has completely worn away.

Been reading up on all the good stuff posted here on the R-10 and now have a halfway decent understanding of how it works.

Posted

No problem. Joe are you intending to wire it as it would have been installed in a 52-54 or alter it for extra shifting etc?

Posted

I run mine as mopar designed it but others put a switch inside the car so they can go into 2nd OD at will. I know Pete Blueskies did it to his 50.

Posted

I would hope that what you got from Neil was the combination of transmission with overdrive. If you purchased only the overdrive section, there is a hole required on the transmission case to allow shifting into reverse. The non overdrive transmission cases do not have the needed hole. Check to see that you can shift into reverse.

If there is no oil leakage from the governor, I would not do anything with it but replace the wire to the lockout switch. If you remove the govenor, it is a bit easier to get at if you remove the park brake assembly. When I removed mine, I made a wrench out of about 1/8 inch steel plate and it worked well. Enjoy.

Posted

Neil sells only complete OD transmissions as far as I know.

Posted
Nah. I think I'll just go factory. By the by, have you ever pulled the governor out of one of these things for inspection and cleaning? Manual says you got to have a special wrench to to do it.

Joe,

I did not need a special tool to remove the governor.

Jim Yergin

Posted

I have this relay that I would like to test. It currently does not have a fuse in it. Reading the manual, it seems that if I touched a wire to the ignition terminal and the terminal that goes to the governor (marked "TH") the relay should activate. Has anyone done this? I was going to just use jumper wires attached to my battery but without the fuse present I don't want to risk frying something in the relay:

ODRelay175.jpg

Posted

I have not run this test but do have an overdrive. The test you describe should do the job of closing the contacts. To verify closure is made, you could do a continuity check before and after power is applied. Before power is applied at terminal "ign" you should have a open between the "bat" and "sol" terminals and continuity between those terminals after power is applied. The photo does not show the part that holds the fuse in the holder. I hope you have it.

Posted

It might be the same as the fuse holder on the earlier headlight switches.

Posted

The retainer for the fuse may be available from George Osche at 814-354 2621. I think new replacement relays are available if needed. If you have the manual for the overdrive, one other thing you could test would be to see if the solenoid works.

Posted

I tested the solenoid and it works. Got a nice clear click when I applied power. I have to go looking for a fuse holder and today was a beautiful day that I did not feel like spending on the computer or driving around so I disassembled my e-brake, among other things. I also adjusted the tie rods and straightened the wheels out. Cleaned up the contacts on the solenoid, etc. This is what the lining looks like on my emergency brake:

E-brake199.jpg

E-brake200.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use