boxer_inv Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Hi all Well, its been a very long time since I got Daisy and unfortunately I haven't had much enthusiasm to do much work on her due to....well...life... BUT, I've mustered up some motivation & enthusiasm and have now set to work!! Earlier this year I had to move her out of the shed to prepare for the cyclone we had - wrapped her up in plastic and she sat in another location for a while. The BOSS (SWMBO) finally issued a writ to say that Daisy had to go back in the shed, so a few weeks ago I got busy and after a LOT of coaxing, flat batteries and cussin', she started. I managed to keep the motor running for long enough to grind a reverse and 1 forward gear - eventually got her back in the shed. As a result of this, I decided that the motor wasn't happy (ran pretty rough), the transmission was unhappier (wanted to throw itself out of the 2 gears I could locate) and the clutch was noisy. Oh, and no brakes.... You'll alll recall aero3113's thread on his engine removal and refurb. Well, armed with the knowledge that I've got reference material, I've decided to remove Daisy's engine & trans and give it an overhaul. First up though - THANK YOU AERO3113 for your INVALUABLE previous thread on this topic. and all who contributed to it. It's gonna be a very well used reference for me. Even though Daisy was running, I was aware that the PO hadn't stripped her down, even though he had the body off and engine out at one stage. I think his refurb was more of a paint-job, than anything mechanical. During today's work, I found that the engine coolant petcock - when opened and then removed - was just a wall of gunk. I expect the same behind the freeze plugs. Given that Daisy's body hasn't had any work done yet, I decided to remove the front panels to make the job easier. It will also allow me to get to the front end suspension to attack those too. Got some pictures of the start I made today. 1. Daisy in shed 2. View of motor as-was 3. One side off 4. Two sides off 5. Radiator off Thinking of some questions already, but I'll put in another reply to this same thread (Don't worry Don - I'll make sure that this project stays in the one thread!) I'm looking forward to this project - its a big one but I'm excited! Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Your engine looks to be cleaner than the rest of the under hood stuff. Before you tear into it (the engine) I suggest you do a compression test. How was the oil pressure when you ran the engine? Thanks for keeping this all in one thread. By doing so it makes it much easier to see what has been done to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 I think we're all going to have fun with this project. Your engine is ten times better than what I started with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 (edited) First up though - THANK YOU AERO3113 for your INVALUABLE previous thread on this topic. and all who contributed to it. It's gonna be a very well used reference for me. You are very welcome! If you need any questions answered let me know,hopefully I can help some more . Here is my post for any newcomers http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=23856&highlight=engine+removal Edited May 14, 2011 by aero3113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 I'm thankful of Don's reminder to do a compression test before taking any more bits off. Will probably do today. Just a question on the oil pressure though, will this rise just under cranking, or will I need to run the engine to confirm the pressure? I'm not even sure whether the actual oil gauge is properly hooked in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 It will rise with cranking but you will not get a true reading until it is running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 You can install a gauge as pictured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 I spent some more time on this project today, and given Don's sage advice to make some tests, I did so. Thing is, after prepping her (battery in place, temp fuel cell, some 'start-stuff' down the carb intake, she started FIRST POP!!!! (Do you think that doesn't have me scratching my head, given the heck of a time I had starting her only weeks ago). Also, I made a point of tightening the plugs before trying her too. How did it run? - after a bit of a cough, Daisy seemed to run fairly smooth - the only difference between now and weeks ago was this time she wasn't under any load. I also managed to get the oil pressure gauge connected properly and it works! I cross-referenced where Dorothy's was connected and inspected /cleared the line. At idle, the oil pressure sat at about 45, increasing to no more than 55 when revved. This was a cold test. I also did the compression test. Here's the results (no oil down): #1: 120 psi #2: 100 psi #3: 105 psi #4: 102 psi #5: 102 psi #6: 111 psi This is a standard 25" block with no mods (that I'm aware of). How do these results go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 Oh, and here's the plugs which came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 Rob, looks like its running a bit rich, but for me the compression test numbers seem o/k.......andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 With dry compression that high and the oil pressure looking that good you should think twice about rebuilding it. Might be better off with an inspection and some new gaskets to seal it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Kinda looks like you're wantin' to fix sumpthin that ain't broke! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1941Rick Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 I saw the problem from the 3rd picture.....your steering box is on the wrong side......;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Kinda looks like you're wantin' to fix sumpthin that ain't broke! Believe me - I'm not wanting to tear this thing apart if not required. The weekends activities were a puzzle to me after how badly she ran previously. But it is good!! I'll save some $$ perhaps... I was considering this last night after doing some more reading about the compression etc and in the absence of anyone here advising otherwise, the readings were within the generally accepted range. Would the carby be mostly responsible for my previous hassles?? Regardless of the need to pull it apart, I'll take it out anyway: - I'm not fussed on the colour it was painted and it was painted fairly roughly - I KNOW there is a lot of gunk inside that block which is going to need cleaning out - no oil filter installed - some small oil leaks front of pan - still need to check out the transmission (separately) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 I saw the problem from the 3rd picture.....your steering box is on the wrong side......;-) Yep....it makes thoughts of fitting dual extractors more complicated (though I know it can be done). Not my intention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 I've had a couple of times where I went out to fire up me truck after it had been sitting for several weeks only to find it very hard to start and once it did it stumbled and misfired terribly. It had been running perfectly before these incidents so I would let it run and it eventually cleared up and ran good again. I suspect that I have a couple of valves that will stick on ocassion after sitting in damp weather. After things begin to warm up they free up and everything is good again. I suspect that you had a similar issue. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 (edited) I pulled the carb off the motor yesterday, taking plenty of photos as I went. The carb is a Carter Ball & Ball (BB) single with the model D6G1. On opening it up, I've noticed that there seem to be parts missing from it - plunger, spring and link rod etc. Nothing fell out when I disassembled, so I guess they've been removed at some point by PO. I know nothing about carbs, but I'm doing lots of searching and reading. My question is though - what is the likely effect of these parts being missing? Given the carb was generally working, they're obviously not totally essential, but....?? Also, in rebuilding this I'm obviously going to need a kit - I found this on eBay - how does that compare? I've found links to other Carter resources already provided by you guys on the forum too - thanks. (Oz guys - which chain parts supplier would be most likely to have one locally if at all?) Rob Edited May 22, 2011 by boxer_inv spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 Rob, I'd try Repco if you have a store nearby, also Carburetor Service Co. in Burwood NSW, Jim Robinson in Victoria, also are you a member of the Chrysler Restorers Club?.......I am their NSW Modified car section.....lol.........pisses them off but they still take my money........worth joining..........and then I'd remove the original carby and put a Stromberg from a HK-HQ Holden, these ones have the larger bolt pattern on the carby........lol.........bolts on, parts available, runs fine.........my 41 Pymouth still has the 201 engine and came with the Holden Stromberg when I bought it, not original but runs fine.........I know its not original but.......lol.......regards, andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 Thanks Andy. Daisy has this Carter BB, whereas Dorothy has a Stromberg carb... any ideas on why the difference, or just someone changing it over sometime in the past...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Hyde Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 G'day Rob, I was going down the road of rebuilding my own original carb off the truck (ETT1 Carter) and was directed to these guys. I found this kit to be the one I wanted - I notice it also fits your model. Some time ago I also picked up another carb (Carter D6H2) for parts. I never ended up using the spare, instead I had my original completely rebuilt by the same guys up in Canada. I can't vouch for their kits but their rebuild work is spot on! If you want the spare for parts, let me know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 ... I had my original completely rebuilt by the same guys up in Canada. Hi Jason - I had good intentions to give you a call today to come for a drive, but I ended up having quite 'big' night with friends and family, so today I remained fairly sedate..... Might try for next weekend perhaps, if you're around. The rebuild that the guys did - can I ask how much it set you back? It looks great! Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 Rob, It's really easy to rebuild these things yourself. I took mine completely apart (taking photos) and let it soak in gasoline for a while. I think I got my rebuild kit from Antique Auto Parts Cellar here in the US but it looks like Jason found a good source that might be more convenient for you. Mine came with instructions that were very helpful. You may already know this, but the manual says never to run wire or anything through the passages to clean them. What I did was use one of those cans of compressed air that they use to clean computer equipment with. It's got one of those skinny red nozzles on it that's perfect for this job and it won't generate so much force that it will blow those tiny parts half way to Townsville or wherever. By the way, I hope that's not one of the wife's nice white towels in your photographs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Saraceno Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 I bought my carb rebuild kit for my D6G1 at NAPA. Echlin #2-5066A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted May 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Hi I've been working on the engine take-out over the past couple of weekends...just taking my time and checking out how it all goes together, taking lots of photos and small bits at a time. I've dropped out the driveshaft and transmission. As I kinda knew, the nice looking blue paintjob is not good in some parts - PO must have cleaned down as much as necessary before just paint-bombing it. No idea of the type of paint used except that in places, it just over the top of the caked on crud... As for the gearbox and troubles I had with the gears, it must have been down to woeful linkage adjustments, because the shift levers on the trans seem to slot into gear just nicely, including 3 forward and reverse. Seemingly no need to have the box stripped and refurbed - nice:) Today's questions relate to painting. 1. I know that where possible, loose, flaking and just not good paint should be removed. But, should I also go the extra and strip off all the paint completely to take the parts back to metal? 2. If I don't, will new paint (like a POR product) adhere okay? 3. If I need to strip off the paint entirely, what method would be best - I don't imagine firing a sandblaster a these parts would be the way to go, but I also don't imagine a water blaster would be good for them either...? Couple of photos too, including a seal just under the gear lever which was leaking - broken. Anyone know what type of seal this is - leather/cork/gasket...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Rob, if you want to paint the gearbox in mopar silver then I'd check that there is no loose paint, either go over it with a cup brush in an angle grinder then scrub with turps then degrease & wash off, let dry then paint......that buggered seal looks to be cork, I'd try to find either a cork or neoprene seal, or even try an "O" ring there.......maybe........dunno if a gearbox rebuild kit would have the correct seal & gaskets...........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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