Joe Flanagan Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 I have the opposite of the problem Jim Saraceno recently posted. Way back when, when I removed the dashboard from my car, I broke off one of the screws. Today, I tried to drill it out and couldn't get anywhere with it. Then I remembered I broke an easy-out off trying to get the thing out nine years ago when I first broke it. So what I'm going to do, I think, is drill a bunch of holes surrounding it, remove both easy-out and screw, and weld the hole up. Then I'll drill and tap a new hole. I believe that was the last time I ever used an easy-out. I swear that tool was someone's idea of a cruel joke. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 I do not like the flute easy outs..I hate Snap-on so called easy out built on the multiple spline (bristol) look..both are imposibily cheap and undependable..HOWEVER years ago and I cannot find any of late..the taper square drive easyouts...excellent as they do not ever break, at least I have not broke one yet..I have over time about wore them slap out and have reshaped them over and over on the grinder..if I ever come across these again I will buy about 5 sets..my last set I have used off and on for 25 plus years.. Quote
oldodge41 Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 I have this type at work and they work well for me.....................Tim http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO-Screw-Extractor-Set-3R995?Pid=search Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 them the babies..they are fantastic..I need to go to Grainger..around here I must have a commercial account to buy... Quote
oldodge41 Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 Here is a cheaper alternative that may be ok for less use............Tim http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VERMONT-AMERICAN-Screw-Extractor-Set-2LKP1?BaseItem=3R995 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 that is more in my price range..will however look on my originals and see if there is a name on them..other than USE SAFETY GOGGLES.. for anyone needing easy outs..I recommend these.. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Posted May 6, 2011 Have you guys ever used a reverse drill bit? I've had good luck with those. Quote
JohnS48plm Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 I just used a left hand drill bit the other day to get a broken motor mount bolt out of my daughters Saturn. I prick punched the piece in the block then started drilling. After a couple of turns it unscrewed the broken piece and all I had to do was run a tap in the hole to clean up the threads. JohnS Quote
1955 plymouth Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 I have the opposite of the problem Jim Saraceno recently posted. Way back when, when I removed the dashboard from my car, I broke off one of the screws. Today, I tried to drill it out and couldn't get anywhere with it. Then I remembered I broke an easy-out off trying to get the thing out nine years ago when I first broke it. So what I'm going to do, I think, is drill a bunch of holes surrounding it, remove both easy-out and screw, and weld the hole up. Then I'll drill and tap a new hole. I believe that was the last time I ever used an easy-out. I swear that tool was someone's idea of a cruel joke. Joe, do you have a small deburring bit, the carbide fluted high speed bits...I have had pretty good sucess removing broken taps, esy-outs, etc with the smaller long reach carbide deburring bits, there are bits for dremel tools also, use the same way. hope this might help give you an alternative to drilling, welding, etc.. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 I have found the use of the Dremel burring tools excellent for broken bolts that are a bit recessed..the bolts rarely are broken flat and center punching them for proper drilling can be tough..the Dremel tool will allow you to "pocket" the bit for good center drilling Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Posted May 6, 2011 Thanks for that tip. Got the day off today and will be visiting Home Depot or some such in search of a deburring bit. Will give it another shot before resorting to welding. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Posted May 12, 2011 Would one of you guys mind posting a picture of the dremel bit you use for this application? What I've got now is the easy-out raised up in the middle of the broken off screw like a small hill. I need to grind it down and recess it so I can try and drill it all out. Quote
DJ194950 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Posted May 12, 2011 :eek:how about welding a nut to the small piece sticking up like you would do to a broken off bolt.?? its been mentioned several times on this site. if you can then turn it counter clockwise while prying upward it should come out?? if so try putting heat AROUND the threaded area with the smallest weld tip you have and remove bolt with a new easyout. just my 2 cents. good luck, doug Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Posted May 12, 2011 Doug, Unfortunately, the piece of the easy-out that is sticking up is so close to the surface that welding would be impossible. This is one of the small screws that hold the dash to the area beneath the windshield. Quote
DJ194950 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) :(joe is your glass still out?? it will easier for any method of extraction if you can heat the broken off easyout enough to draw out the temper.to do that it needs to be heated quickly to red hot and air cooled. wet rags covering that new paint. then you can try something like the dremel tools in the attached pic. these where bought at harbor freight as part of a 40 piece set for less than $20. grind a center to try drilling, probably still need a cobalt bit, or grind all the way thru as net nut portion your working on is only a hair thicker than 1/8 in. the orginal bolt however measures 5/8 in. long. i checked mine. grind until most all thread is gone and retap. forgot to mention the bits show are diamond coated. slow but will grind also anything. good luck, doug Edited May 12, 2011 by DJ194950 add pics Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Posted May 12, 2011 Thanks for the picture, Doug. Yes, the glass is still out. I don't believe there is much of the easy-out embedded in the screw. If I can grind it out I'll be home free. Quote
james curl Posted May 12, 2011 Report Posted May 12, 2011 The easy outs in the Granger catalog, the cheaper of the two sets says made in China for what it is worth. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 13, 2011 Author Report Posted May 13, 2011 I didn't get the screw out but I was able to drill clean through it and tap the hole. I got a couple of diamond edged dremel bits from Sears like Doug showed in his picture. With these I was able to reduce the mound in the middle of the broken screw down to a level surface and then bore a pit into it. From there I went with a carbide drill bit. Broke the first one off but was able to twist it out with pliers. Broke the second one, too. That one was not coming out. Took another bit, slightly larger diameter, and to my surprise, was able to grind right through everything--broken drill bit, broken easy out, broken screw--and through to the other side. I tapped some threads into the hole and now it's good as new. Thank you all for the advice. Quote
1955 plymouth Posted May 14, 2011 Report Posted May 14, 2011 Great to hear you got thru the broken bolt dilema, I think we all get on here to learn from one another, & attempt to collectively help one another thru our "restoration woes". This is what the forums are all about for me. Learn & advise when we can, or at least throw an idea out there:D Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 14, 2011 Author Report Posted May 14, 2011 I'm with you on that one. I don't know where I'd be without this forum. Well, yes I do. I'd be back where I was four years ago. Quote
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