Young Ed Posted March 25, 2011 Report Posted March 25, 2011 Danger the little BB goes under the accelerator pump. As Greg mentioned a small hook will get that clip out. And I've found a socket works best for pushing it back in. Match a socket up to the size of the clip and then install. Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Posted March 25, 2011 I have practiced disassembling and assembling this carb and can do it well. My last question is setting float level. The manuals are not clear exactly how to do this. I know you bend the tang, but are you suppoed to do it with gas in the bowl? thanks Quote
greg g Posted March 25, 2011 Report Posted March 25, 2011 Thers should be a paper gauge i the kit and instructions on how to us it. Conventional wisdom over the past few years seems that a bit lower than spec'ed works better with today's enthanol brews. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 25, 2011 Report Posted March 25, 2011 I I know you bend the tang, but are you suppoed to do it with gas in the bowl?thanks Not necessary to have gas in the bowl when you bend it but it is necassary to have gas in the bowl to check the level adjustment. This is not difficult to do. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted March 25, 2011 Report Posted March 25, 2011 Just hold it upside down to check it. Quote
Young Ed Posted March 25, 2011 Report Posted March 25, 2011 I just use one finger to hold it against the needle. Also you must have the needle and seat installed and snugged up or your float measurement will get lowered when they are tightened. No need for gas in the carb. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 Young Ed makes a good point. Get the seat as tight as you want it before you set the level. Then, when you connect the fuel line, use two wrenches to make sure you don't tighten it even more, since that will affect the level, and you will have less chance of stripping the threads in the bowl. Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 26, 2011 Author Report Posted March 26, 2011 thanks guys. I will let you all know how the rebuild goes. Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 Picked up the kit lastnight and installed it this morning. She fired right up and idled great after I adjusted the idle screw. There are two problems still. I step on the gas and it sometimes acts like itsa going to stall out and while backing up the car it died on me. Tried a few times to start her without and with pedal with no luck. Waited 5 minutes, pressed gas to the floor and she started up and I pulled her up out the driveway and she died again. What is causing this? Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 Also I can see a good quirt of gas when I move the throttle. Quote
greg g Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 Check the fule flow at the carb, Disconnect the line from the carb, direct the flow ito a container, pull the coil wire, have somebody crank it while you count fuel pump pulses, 12 shots should give you 8 to 10 ounces of fuel, if you don;t get that much you need to work the issue frm the fuel pump to the tank. Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 OKay this is going to sound strange. I wanted to make sure the coil was okay so i pulled the dist to coil plug wire and wasnt getting any spark. I noticed that the end that goes into the dist cap didnt feel like it was snug. I reversed the wire and she fired right up...?? The weird part is that I drove this car home two weeks ago with the wire like this. Could a weak connection from the dist cap to the coil cause it to run rich to due low voltage?? Once I reversed the wire and started her, she ran smoother and without stumbling or stalling. thanks for all the help Quote
greg g Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 As stated 99% of fuel problems are caused electrically. You know I was gonna suggest that about 40 posts ago but it seems so obvious............ But at least you got a good carb rebuild out of your electrical problem. Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 Yeah, kinda feel dumb now for not checking that first. Thanks to everyone Quote
greg g Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 Been there done that. these Dizzy caps seem more proe to this than other cars, maybe the angle of the dist or something. Quote
PatS.... Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 Christian, don't feel dumb...we ALL do it. The point is that you checked it and discovered the problem, AND now you can rebuild a Carter B&B. Win Win. Any new pics of the old Plymouth??? We love pictures around here! Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 yes I have new pics, but i cannot remember how to post them here. How do I do this? Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 WOW! That's a beauty. What's under the hood? Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 Thank you. It has a 230 straight 6 with 3 speed manual with alternator and front disc brakes. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) Modern day ignition wires are carbon core. OHM test them-8-10,000 ohms per foot of ignition wire. If a carbon core wire is open or burned out the secondary ignition voltage jumps too high and the coil and points cannot handle it. So hard or no starts and miss under heavy loads. Gotta keep up on the tune up maintenence to catch this situation. Bob Edited March 27, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
flattiefreak Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 Still having a problem. Its hard starting when hot. It wont frie up after a few minutes of sitting. I have an electric fuel pump in series with the mechanical one. It is even really hard to start with gas pedal pressed to the floor. Once i get it started it runs GRERAT. I can kill the engine and immediately start it back up without having to put my foot on the gas. Any ideas? I am very sure this is a fuel problem. I am getting spark. Quote
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