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Have I found the culprit - overheating!


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Posted

First - thanks for all "tips and tricks" and the vast experience and knowledge you all share!!

We got our Desoto S11 -48 last spring and before coming to Sweden it was running in CA. I would say it is in good shape and it has been taken care of!

Last summer we had a nice and warm summer in Sweden with temp reaching 90 F now and then [had to get an AC for the bedroom ...]. In these days the Desoto did not run cool, it ran really hot and even came to boiling once:(

I checked the easy things first - got a new thermostat and flushed the engine and radiator - but at the next hot day same issues! As I did not want to do any large "operations" I decided to wait for winter and just not ride the Desoto on hot days ... :(

Well, winter is here [-4 F this morning and 2 feet of snow ..] so I took apart the front of the engine e.g. removed the pump and pulled the distribution tube and was really expecting the tube to be faulty ... it was in excellent shape and came out with out any problem! I have also flushed the engine once more and plenty of stuff came out. I also tested the flow in the radiator, a good 4" flow through the lower outlet [i have a new radiator on the shelf - an aluminum from Champion] Over to the pump - at first inspection it looked ok but seamed to lack some grease as the axel was binding a bit - so this afternoon I made new gaskets and while trying one of them on the pump I found these wholes in the body:mad:

So, what do you think? Is this the culprit?

What other plans do we have for the winter?!

New lining for the roof is on its way.

New shocks are on its way.

The ignition system will get some new stuff.

Some new parts will go into the front-end [not sure what name is in English - the lower outer bearings on the lower a-frames].

The rear will be lowered 2-3"

Take care all of you!

//Daniel

post-7007-13585359618352_thumb.jpg

Posted

No, I have not removed the welch plugs yet but I know that is "best practice". I have used compressed air and a thin hose along with a steady water flow and I got out plenty of rust and other sediments. I have also used a "water vacuum cleaner" and a thin hose .. I would say I got most of the stuff out and I'll continue tomorrow - I have some ideas I would like to try !!

//Daniel

Posted

If you can pull those lower freeze plugs it would be good. I couldn't believe how much stuff was sitting there when I cleaned my engine block. I think someone here on the forum did it with the engine still installed. Check the archives.

Nice car, by the way.

Posted

Yup the engine I got from Merle was the same way. Gunk up beyond the level of the lower plugs.

Posted
If you can pull those lower freeze plugs it would be good. I couldn't believe how much stuff was sitting there when I cleaned my engine block. I think someone here on the forum did it with the engine still installed. Check the archives.

Nice car, by the way.

I was at least one who has done it in-car.

Popped out side frost plugs, pulled water pump, pulled water dist tube, and flushed with warm water and pressure washer.

The when rear freeze plug leaked pulled the clutch,trans,flywheel to do that 1 too.

I also rodded out as much as I could. My engine now would drain clean right out the draincock , as it should.

The last thing I did was fill system with water and run for 1/2 hour at temp, with 1 cup of electro sol in the water as per Lou Earles recipe,then drained and flushed cooling system twice, before refilling with coolant mix.

So far so good, my engine will run hotter on real hot days, if I am travelling at higher speeds, and especially if I do not have adequate air flow across the rad, other wise she runs at about 170/175 on an 80 degree day

Posted

Have two engines out right now. How do you guys reinstall those freeze plugs once you remove them and clean them out? Does it require a special tool?

thx Greg

Posted

Set em with a BFH, and some good quality sealant on the plug first. Put a nice dimple in the center of the plug.....

Posted

Well, went back to the workshop today and did some more flushing with water and compressed air - the water is flowing fine and clear through the petcock on the left side if the engine. So, not really sure if I should pull the plugs or just get a new pump?! No doubt that the wholes in pump will affect the flow ...

I migth just get those plugs and put them on the shelf and if the problem is still there in the summer I'll pull the plugs...

Back to the pump - has anyone of you seen such wholes ? Looks like corrosion and cavitation :eek:

Tomorrow I'll check if I can get hold of one on this side of the Atlantic Ocean or if I have to really oneBay - have anyone of you bought anything of this seller:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Desoto-Deluxe-237-L6-1936-52-Water-Pump-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51971a1f6fQQitemZ350427422575QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f100#ht_500wt_956

thanks and take care!

//Daniel

Posted

sig, i would be interested in knowing exactly where those holes are. i have gone through my entire cooling system except for pulling the freeze plugs and my overheat issue has not gone away. maybe my pump has the same problem. capt den

Posted

I also have a NAPA pump, a good unit. One thing you need to know, however, is that it is set up for internal bypass, and you need to either weld up the hole or change the backplate for an external bypass engine. The top of the casting is set up for either the bolt-on adapter for the external bypass or for a pipe-thread adapter for a heater hose on an internal bypass engine.

Marty

Posted

Thanks for suggestion to get a new pump from NAPA but they don't ship to Sweden:(

We do have similar suppliers but they don't have parts for old Desotos ...

You can get hold of almost all parts for a US built car in Sweden if its built in the 50s, 60s or 70s but the 40s is much harder ...

BUT - today I went to my supplier [an old guy with plenty NOS stuff and other stuff as well, I think he goes to the US once or twice a year and fills a container and ship home. He is one of the few that does not do internet so you have to call him the good old way] and got a brand new pump, 5 welsh plugs, an oil filter and a heat raiser refurbishing kit !! When I got home I found a note in my mail box saying that my new shocks from Summit had arrived at my post office!!

I'll keep you posted on the progress !

//Daniel

Posted

FYI for the future. US cars used the flathead with the same basic waterpump until 1959.

Posted
I also have a NAPA pump, a good unit. One thing you need to know, however, is that it is set up for internal bypass, and you need to either weld up the hole or change the backplate for an external bypass engine. The top of the casting is set up for either the bolt-on adapter for the external bypass or for a pipe-thread adapter for a heater hose on an internal bypass engine.

Marty

Not sure this is completely accurate at least as I understand it. The new pumps NAPA stocks are set up for either from what I have researched. The difference is in the head and the head gasket used. The only difference on the water pump is the bolt on adapter as is stated. If you don't have the passage for the internal bypass it just deadheads as there is no matching hole for it to go into, but the gasket should seal it. The back plate would not need to be modified (welded) or switched out if I have it figured out right.

If I am out in left field please chime in. :confused:

The thermostat I am not sure if there is a difference or not. Looking at part numbers I would say no but....

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