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Posted (edited)

Your pinchweld area on the truck is 3/4 inch wide? If it is, would trimming 3/8" from the inside dimension help?

Edited by Dave72dt
Posted

Thanks to all of you for responding to my interruption of the thread to ask about removing the window. Based on the responses, I went back to cutting the lip with a utility knife and the window popped out relatively easily. I should have been smart enough to do that in the first place, but I have never been known (according to my wife) to be smart.

I was not able to get a clean section of the rubber to use as a sample for Steele. I will try to get one, however,when I remove the drivers side. I did measure the lip of that side after I removed the center bar. On mine, it is 3/8", and it covers the welds.

Posted

What year is your truck?

Posted

Barry, how about a measurement top to bottom of the leading edges of the pinchweld. Or anyone else with the glass out that hasn't chopped the top. There has to be a reason the seal won't cover the pinchweld on Gary's truck and does on nearly evryone else's.

Gary, can you post up the pics you sent to Steele so we can see them also?

Posted

but as I said in post #9, I bought mine through Roberts. If someome is currently talking to Steele, I'd like to know if Steele is the sole manufacturer and distributor for of all our rubber including windshield, wing windows and rear windows for three and five windows cabs.

Thanks,

Hank :)

Posted
Barry, how about a measurement top to bottom of the leading edges of the pinchweld. Or anyone else with the glass out that hasn't chopped the top. There has to be a reason the seal won't cover the pinchweld on Gary's truck and does on nearly evryone else's.

Gary, can you post up the pics you sent to Steele so we can see them also?

Not quite sure which measurement you are asking for. The distance down from the leading edge of the sheet metal at the top of the window opening to the leading edge at the bottom (just above the welds) is 18-3/8". It you want the depth of the pinch weld area, it is 7/16". My rubber lip is 3/8". I have attached a photo that may be of some help. BTW, my truck is a '51 B3C.

A somewhat unrelated question: Do you guys often replace the windshield glass with new glass? I think mine will clean up, but it does have a chip or two and some minor discoloration at the edges.

post-6619-13585359721717_thumb.jpg

Posted
A somewhat unrelated question: Do you guys often replace the windshield glass with new glass? I think mine will clean up, but it does have a chip or two and some minor discoloration at the edges.

You are not going to want to do this twice are you?

Hank :)

Posted

Thanks Barry. That's the measurement I was looking for. Now, I wonder what Gary has on his. I've got the same on the pinchweld dimension but my top is choppped so I can't help on the other. That's why I asked someone with a stock cab.

Posted
You are not going to want to do this twice are you?

Hank :)

for me I have no choice...both were cracked! But I think new glass is the way to go.

Posted

The measurements I took on (2) 1948 cabs and (2) 1950 cabs was 18 1/2 inches between inside edges.

48D

Posted

My new glass is installed so getting a measurement is not likely. I took several measurements today of the newly installed steele gasket. Steele said the outer gasket is 3/8 matching stock specs. I took several measurements around my windshield measuring the distance from under the outer seal to the glass channel. This measurement on my truck is 1/4 inch short by 1/8 inch. If the original was 3/8 this is part of my problem. To properly cover all pinch seam welds I would need 1/2 min for the correct look. I just might have a truck where the welds are further from the pinch seam. Manufacturing was not that accurate in 52. I communicated this to Steele today. I have plenty of pictures. What is the easly way to get you guys and gals pictures?

Posted (edited)

Try PhotoBucket. (PB)

1. Create a free acct.

2. Create an album you believe will last (if you move a pic from an album it will break the link and lose the image on the forum thread).

3. After all the images are loaded on PB, open the forum in a different window. put the windows side by side.

4. On PB left click the direct link info below image you want (it will auto copy for you)

5. In the reply window of the forum, click the square yellow icon.

6. Right click on the hightlighted blue area (address bar) and paste the link in.

The forum text will show it as a html address.

7. Click "preview post" to see if you loaded the image and reply to your likein'.

You can load 5 images in each reply I believe.

good luck!

48D

Edited by 48dodger
Posted

I was not able to get a clean section of the rubber to use as a sample for Steele. I will try to get one, however,when I remove the drivers side.

I did remove the drivers side windshield and salvaged some rubber intact. At this point in the thread, I am not sure that it will be of any use to anyone. Nevertheless, I have a section of the gasket.

Posted

Thanks just let me know if you have a sample. Eddie from steele called yesterday and asked for measurements. It appears Steele is going to modify their gasket mold for a better fit. In a conversation with Steele Chevy gaskets had a similar problem and it was corrected. I sent several measurements to them today with some pictures. The gasket over the outside of the glass will be extended an additional 1/8 inch. My recommendation is that the total width be 1/2 to cover the entire pinchweld. Their gasket is not a true 3/8 but more like 5/16.

Posted

I also noticed from mine and the pics on here - the Steele rubber is flatter and rounder on the outside, where the Mopar rubber was thicker and more pronounced...it had a more defined ridge around the outside of the glass.

Posted

I have measured my steele gasket and as I mentioned earlier mine is 13/32 slightly over 3/8 inch. I wonder if the one 1952Gary got was an exception. I know one of my rear window seals from steele was messed up. One fit fine the other was vulcanized int he window grove and wouldn't accept the glass. I sent it back and steele sent me a new one.

Posted

RPM restro also carries a gasket for our trucks but not sure who supplies their gaskets. Precision also makes a seal. When we order window seals for a 66 mustang Presicion listed a seal for the dodge trucks. Precision gaskets fit very well and looked nice on the mustang. FYI I received a message from steele today and they are in the process of modifing their gasket but they did not give me a timeline.

Posted

When I first contacted Steele and discussed this problem they assured me that they checked every gasket in stock. They told me they compared it to the two originals in stock and theirs matched the repops. Who is to say if I got a bad one. If they can not resolve this fit I will call Precision and inquire about their gasket. I did give steele a original part number on my old seal, but they never commented on what they found.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

The results are final. After much discussion with steele on the windshield molding not fitting properly I can say the results with the new gasket is very good. Steele made adjustments by extending the outer lip of the gasket by 1/8 inch. I am very happy with steele's new gasket. This will improve the looks of the dodge trucks. When you order the new gasket be sure to ask for the newest remake. Not sure if they gave it a different number. I will call steele Monday and report the good news and get a new part number for the forum.

Posted

Thanks Gary...nice work. At the last truck BBQ I looked around at the new gaskets and the old...a very real problem for everyone. I'm using real glass and gasket this year for the Bonneville truck....will appreciate the good fit from Steele!

48D

Posted

Just an added alternative to removing the old rubber. I used a sharp wood chisel and placed the angled side down on the metal. Just slid it around resting the angled edge on the glass and metal. Skinned the old rubber off slick, then just pushed the glass in without any pressure at all.

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