41/53dodges Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 i got my engine from merle, and its almost runnable, but i need to know how long i could let it run without any water, as the rest of the cooling system is about 4 hours drive from here, with the truck, but it needs to run to get it ready to drop in the truck in the spring. about how long could it sit idle before being unsafe to keep running. to some degree, less than a minute, but with it making no power, im kinda unsure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Never a good idea to run without water but if you do I would say no more than 30 seconds at idle. I could be wrong and others will no doubt chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 You could run it with water but without the radiator... tape/cap off the lower water jacket connection, fill it up with water, leave the top connection uncovered and remove the fan belt (water pump drive). If the water gets hot enough (very unlikely with only a moment or two of running), it will boil through the top connection and keep the engine from overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Why do you need to run it before you install it? Just curious:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old stovebolt Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Never a good idea to run without water but if you do I would say no more than 30 seconds at idle. I could be wrong and others will no doubt chime in. Ditto.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted January 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Why do you need to run it before you install it? Just curious:) wouldnt you be seriously pissed if you hauled it 4 1/2 hours and put it in the truck and not be able to drive it for some odd reason? i would rather iron everything out here first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 I run my yard vehicle, a ford ranger, without a radiator. I have a hose going from the inlet connection to the outlet connection. Same with the heater connection on the block and water pump. I put a T in the heater hose where I added antifreeze. I can run the truck about 15 minutes or so. When the engine get warm, I can turn the heater on high and bring down the engine temp down for a few more minutes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 How about making a short lower hose section with a connection to a water hose, then fill it with the top open, and after you start it just keep a bit of water pressure on the lower end? (You could run a drain hose from the upper end if you don't want the water mess, but don't let it siphon.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted January 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 i would be just hooking a garden hose up to the heater outlet on the head, like i did when i first got the truck running, but wisconsin is just a little frozen at this point, and im not running a garden hose from the basement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 wouldnt you be seriously pissed if you hauled it 4 1/2 hours and put it in the truck and not be able to drive it for some odd reason? i would rather iron everything out here first. Yes I would, but I'm also pretty sure that Merle would not sell me a lemon......operating under that principle you should have heard it run before you hauled it home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Yes I would, but I'm also pretty sure that Merle would not sell me a lemon......operating under that principle you should have heard it run before you hauled it home. I sold him a non-running engine and that was known up front. It did spin freely and I did a quick compression test before the transaction took place. I was going to get it running, some day, but I never found the time to tinker with it before Josh wanted it. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 I made a "Tennessee" radiator to run my engine. But I had to disassemble my still:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 I sold him a non-running engine and that was known up front. It did spin freely and I did a quick compression test before the transaction took place. I was going to get it running, some day, but I never found the time to tinker with it before Josh wanted it. Merle Thanks Merle and Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted January 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 I sold him a non-running engine and that was known up front. It did spin freely and I did a quick compression test before the transaction took place. I was going to get it running, some day, but I never found the time to tinker with it before Josh wanted it. Merle BTW, Merle i found the issue with the ignition. it was just the little cloth wire for the points under the dizzy cap was smashed by the cap, making the points ground out! i almost got it running, but i think there is something up with the starter, it cranks slow on 12 volts and smokes after about 5 seconds, so il have to look into that! P.S. what was the oil i found in the intake manifold? i have never found oil like that before! has kinda an odd smell to it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Yea, I noticed the same thing with the starter. That's why I couldn't get higher compression numbers, because of the slow cranking. What you're seeing is Marvel Mystery Oil. I used it to help lube the upper end while it was stored. Some of the intake valves were open when I poured it through the plug holes and it also ran into the intake. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I made a "Tennessee" radiator to run my engine. But I had to disassemble my still:DHey Don, what is the true color of your engine. I always thought it was a greenish color like the botom pic but in the top pic it looks like a light blue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I made a "Tennessee" radiator to run my engine. But I had to disassemble my still:DHey Don, what is the true color of your engine. I always thought it was a greenish color like the botom pic but in the top pic it looks like a light blue? I just checked my paint cans. I thought the color was Chrysler Blue but I also found a can of GM blue. So I think it is a combination of both:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old stovebolt Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I made a "Tennessee" radiator to run my engine. But I had to disassemble my still:DMake sure you keep the garage door closed so it warms up faster:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 wouldnt you be seriously pissed if you hauled it 4 1/2 hours and put it in the truck and not be able to drive it for some odd reason? i would rather iron everything out here first. Well, as folks here said, you can run the engine by filling the water in and circulating it without radiator, but how much such "test" actually tells you? My D24 had a shot main bearing and the only symptom was low oil pressure. I ran it two summers before I pulled oil pan and found destroyed main bearing. It was so bad that I doubt a modern engine would have ran a hundred miles with such. If I were you I would take it apart before installing. At least pull oil pan, valve covers and head. It may run but still be in need of overhaul. Much easier to install e.g. new crank end sealing with the engine on shop floor than installed in. "Just my 2 cents" (I learned this sentence here, hope it is appropriate in this context...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Well, as folks here said, you can run the engine by filling the water in and circulating it without radiator, but how much such "test" actually tells you?My D24 had a shot main bearing and the only symptom was low oil pressure. I ran it two summers before I pulled oil pan and found destroyed main bearing. It was so bad that I doubt a modern engine would have ran a hundred miles with such. If I were you I would take it apart before installing. At least pull oil pan, valve covers and head. It may run but still be in need of overhaul. Much easier to install e.g. new crank end sealing with the engine on shop floor than installed in. "Just my 2 cents" (I learned this sentence here, hope it is appropriate in this context...) i will have to pull the pan anyways, it needs to be swapped for a rear sump. once it warms up outside, i will hook up a garden hose to it so it can run for extended periods. about an hour or two run time should be enough to get it all "run in" again, loosen rings, etc. by then, i should have gotten the other pan and switched it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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