Point Specs

[yourpc48]

Okay. I have a 47 Plymouth 5 window that still has the flathead in it. The car sat not running for 25 years. Without pulling the head I was able to get the valves freed up and rebuilt the carb and other than what I think is a lifter tick I can get the car to Idle well but If I put it under a load I get sputtering and a little backfiring. Thought it might be the points. Can anyone tell me what the point dwell should be on the 47. I found a thread for the points on a 40 but didnt know what they should be for the 47. Right now the dwell shows on the meter at 32 dwell. By the way I forgot to mention that everything is also now 12 volt Neg. ground (not that it should make a difference) Thanks for any help....

[Don Coatney]

Suggest you read all the information on the main web page supporting this forum. Your answer can be found there.

[yourpc48]

You are correct.

I had seen these specs before from google searches. I just couldnt find them again. I really like the page that lists the parts and numbers for the parts still available from parts houses. Thank you. I did have a D24 24 years ago and another D24 15 years ago I prefer that model but the P15 is a very nice car as well. I like the fat fender Mopars.

I have read many articles at this site and posts. Thanks for puting it up on the net. I do the same for computer service help at icompute.info. But no forum there. Thanks again.

[BobT-47P15]

Hi P C, welcome.

Just out of curiosity, where are you located?

Hopefully we can be of help with your project.

If you don't have a repair manual for your car, you can buy one

pretty easily on ebay. Some are originals, some reprints.....either

is good. A parts manual is also good....as it shows exploded views

on many things. There are a lot of helpful things built into the forum

as well. Bob

[yourpc48]

I live in Coos Bay Oregon. When I owned the 48 Dodge coupe I lived in a town 30 miles from here called Myrtle Point. I had a Chiltons I purchased back in 85 but its in Alaska right now. I checked my dizzy for ground and advance weights and also the vacuum advance. All is good and I now have the dwell at 38 like suggested. I still have studdering under load. I will use the search to see if anyone else has had this issue. Thanks again for this forum. I also checked compression and have 110 to 125 lbs in the low and high. 4 have 120 lbs. Hmmmm...

Edited December 20, 2010 by yourpc48
Add compression info.

[aero3113]

That ticking sound that you hear might just be the fuel pump arm riding on the cam lobe.

[Merle Coggins]

I believe I also read a post form you on the Technical Archives board about not having the heat riser parts on your engine. Is the flapper still in the manifold and could it be stuck in the closed position that could be restricting the exhaust flow from the front cylinders? Maybe that's what's causing the poor running at higher RPMs? Also, I once misassembled my points wrong and didn't have the correct spring tension. This caused the points to bounce and I couldn't get it to go over 2500 RPM. Once I found the problem and fixed it all was good again.

Merle

[yourpc48]

Thanks for the info. The riser parts are not stuck as far as I can tell. I can move the flapper back and forth and if I start the car it flaps back and forth on its own. I would like to put the riser in the open position and then warm up the car a d drive it.

The points however might be a problem. I do believe they are correct but I will check them. I did get the dwell to exactly 38.

[greg g]

Open is fully clock wise. Then by positionig a pair of vise grips you can use their weight to kee it open.

[yourpc48]

Thanks for the info and the crosscut image. I think I may still be having a carb or fuel problem. As I pull the choke out the sputtering is reduced slightly. I have to go to work now but when I get a chance I will play some more. I pulled the top off the carb and lowered the float level and that made it worse. I also noted that the vacuum actuated metering rod had its piston stuck. Light coat of oil and it was full functional again. Didnt cure the problem but one thing off the list. I have pulled the carb and cleaned it but who knows. I will pull and soak the carb again to see if I have a problem with something still stuck in the carb. The car did sit for 25 years.

[desoto1939]

When you say the car is sputtering have you looked at the bottom flange and the base of the carb? If the heat riser is not working on a very cold day then you will notice that around the base of the carb it will have a white coating of ice. This is happening becasue of the vaporising of the fuel mixture and the heat riser is not heating up the carb to stop this situation.

My car would stall out when this was happening. When I came to an intersection all I had to do was pull out the throttle or choke to keep the engine running and then after the manifold got warmer then the situationwent away. I did replace the Heat riser and this then solved my problem.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[DJ194950]

have you checked for vacuam leaks?

disconnect and plug vac. line to wipers and anything else. smooth out?

spray carb cleaner arround carb,top to bottom, also at intake manifold gasket.

does engine rpm change? if indicates a leak, which can cause a small miss up

backfiring.

some things to check if not already done.

good luck.

[yourpc48]

Thanks for the info. I will try closing the heat riser a bit. I have noticed a cooling of the base of the carb. I will also check for vacuum leaks. Wiper motor is not leaking (its pulled). This car sat for about 25 years without running and the carb had about a quarter inch of gunk in it when I furst pulled it apart. I hate the new carb cleaner wheres the stuff that would strip the skin off your hand??? I used a brand new dip and let the carb sit in it for like 5 days. No dice. OK degreaser but nothing else. I ended up puting the carb in Superclean degreaser for a few hours and then finished with a acid based mag wheel cleaner from NAPA. The carb is pretty now but I may not have had enough time with the wheel cleaner on the inside of the carb to clean out the little orifices. The coating inside the carb when I first pulled it apart was a rust and varnish about a quarter inch thick. I had to scoop out the sediment when I first started the overhaul process.

[yourpc48]

Clearly a carb problem. I thought the glass bowl on the fuel pump had a filter in it. Since it was rusty and filled with gunky sediment I couldnt really tell. Turns out that there was no filter in the system and the Carb I had overhauled had a bunch of sediment in it again. Not near as bad as the original time I opened it but bad enough. I pulled it all apart again and soaked the float bowl portion of the carb with etching wheel cleaner. Its pretty now. I put it all together and its much improved. I can accelerate and go up a hill without sputtering. Before and after . Thanks for the suggestions.

[yourpc48]

Oh yeah. I put an inline filter on the car to keep it from happening again. IDont have the filter in the bowl but I do have an odd screen thats part of the rubber seal for the bowl.