littlemo Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 falconvan; Your right about the size of those old steering boxes; I solved the exhaust manifold problem by swapping the original out with one that wraps around the steering tube thus clearing the box, but the shifting lever was hitting the bell-housing during my trial fit. The Floor shifter is a consideration, I've even been looking at a few on e-bay; although, I had my heart set on leaving the enterior as stock as possible (excepting the bucket seats with built in restraining harnesses), and wanted to use the original shifting lever on the steering column to control the "new" 904 trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Can you move the shifter on top of the column like the 53-54 models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Young Ed; I don't think the lever can be easily physically moved to the top of the column. If it were moved to that location, the enterior lever (below the steering wheel) would be sticking straight up in the drivers face. I went out after reading your post and did a re-evaluation of what I'm dealing with. I found, (I think) I can move the lever out of the way for engine installation and then back to it's normal position afterwards. A "young man" on another forum informed me he had done this swap and fabed a new shifting rig using the original lever, so it can be done. Thanks for all the input! Cass, alias littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Ah you'd probably have to find one of the 53-54 levers and try and use that. Would still require a dash mod I suspect to make room for the rod. Sounds like you've got a good solution in the works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Notwithstanding the problem with the old shifting lever, I plunged ahead with the test fit on my 318/904 combo into my 48 SD. It was plain, that the engine crossmember I had obtained from falconvan was going to be a "no-go" with this setup. I continue to have hopes I can use the trans crossmember he gave me, although I think the drivers side will require a modified perch due to the location of that new MC. When others who have made this type of swap before say "it's a tight fit"; they know what they're talking about! Although there's not a lot of "wiggle room", I've more clearance around the engine then I had expected ( the shifting lever is the exception, will not be able to use it without some serious modification!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Notwithstanding the problem with the old shifting lever, I plunged ahead with the test fit on my 318/904 combo into my 48 SD. It was plain, that the engine crossmember I had obtained from falconvan was going to be a "no-go" with this setup. I continue to have hopes I can use the trans crossmember he gave me, although I think the drivers side will require a modified perch due to the location of that new MC. When others who have made this type of swap before say "it's a tight fit"; they know what they're talking about! Although there's not a lot of "wiggle room", I've more clearance around the engine then I had expected ( the shifting lever is the exception, will not be able to use it without some serious modification!). This worked well for me: I had the same oil pan you do and swapped it for a late 70's pickup pan. That relocates the sump to the rear of the engine. You will also need a new pump pickup. I used the same mounts as you have but I drilled new holes in the center to move the frame motor mounts more forward away from the steering box. I wanted to use the column shifter too but it soon became clear it would not work. The valve cover on the pass. side should touch the firewall. You can then modify that area for more clearance. Also a good idea to use a 90 deg. oil filter adapter. Even with a short filter it was tight there. Just some suggestions. I spent a lot of time head scratching and eye balling but it turned out pretty decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Thanks for the info Fester60. I'm just an "old geiser" trying to relive my teenage years, so any and all tips are helpful; thanks again bigtime!!! Cass, alias littlemo... PS. How did you end up solving the shifting problem ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 PS. How did you end up solving the shifting problem ?? I haven't yet. That's another nut to crack next spring when I can get her back in the garage for phase 2. I think I will end up with a Lokar or similar shifter, but who knows? A lot can happen between now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 That fits pretty good, Cass. Have you sat in it and made vroom vroom noises yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted November 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 (edited) More like "RUMBLE RUMBLE squeak squeak, RUMBLE RUMBLE squeak squeak" !!! Cass, alias Littlemo ... Edited November 20, 2011 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted December 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 (edited) Christmas has started early this year. My "new" rear sump oil pan arrived as well as some universal motor mount cushions I had ordered to use with either commercial custom motor mounts or with some I will "fab" up. However, I just couldn't get those crossmembers falconvan had given me out of my mind. The last time I had "trial-fit" the engine crossmember, the mounts had been too wide to use with the 318 engine. It appeared, it had been designed with a different engine in mind. I have since seen these advertised by Speedway motors, but I didn't see any being offered for Mopars. In order to use this mount, quite a few questions needed answering;(1) could the crossmember be narrowed,(2) would the position of the crossmember be such that it would mount in front of the steering box and (3) far enough forward of the tie rods so as not to interfere with steering, and (4) would the fit be such that the crossmember not protrude below the original front crossmember of the Plymouth or at least not below the "scrub" line? Edited December 4, 2011 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted December 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) The crossmember that falconvan had given me was made of 1.5 in. ID. pipe, with approx 7/64 wall thickness. The mounts themselves were on 16.25 - 16.50 centers (?). Since I was needing 14.750 center to center for the 318 I had to cut between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 in. out of the middle of the crossmember before resplicing to fit. Using what I had on hand to form a coupling, I used a 2 1/2 in. section of 1.5 in. OD and "tack welded it into the inside of the crossmember in order to join the two peices together. I then used a 3 in. slotted section of 3/32 walled pipe which was 1 3/4 ID. Since this pipe was slightly larger then the OD of the original crossmember, I slotted it and "squeezed" it together, using a vise, for a fit which was a little more snug. This was then tacked welded in place, Since this outer pipe was so thin walled, I was concerned for the strength of the "new" crossmember, so decide to add another section of 5/32 thick walled pipe 2 3/4 in long for additional strength. This section was also tacked in. After another trial fitting, and seeing the width is now correct for the 318 engine, I will remove the "new crossmember and , since my welding skills are nominal at best, I will take it to a friend to be professionally welded. This should take care of question #1, narrowing the crossmember. Cass, alias Littlemo... ADD: This is probably confusing and an exercise in futility, but it sure is FUN !!! ( Note, oil pan not swapped out yet !) Edited December 4, 2011 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Your splice looks like a massive case of overkill, so it should be just about right! BTW, looks like camera lessons could be useful, unless you really did take the photos 3 months in the future! Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted December 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Sorry, but I know about as much about this camera as I know about welding !!! lol... Cass, alias littlemo... PS. Is that too many "abouts"??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 following along here, nice project,,i missed what ever happened to the injected motor ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) It's just setting on a pallet at the side of my garage wondering if I'll ever try and sell it so it'll have a new home !! lol.. Actually, I decided to forego the EFI 5.2 Mag. I just couldn't wrap myself around that 46 RE trans., the ECM, and all the other "electronic-stuff". So, when a friend from Il offered to sell me a 318/904 combo, I decided to change directions and simplify my project.(at least in my mind) Edited December 9, 2011 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 I thought it might be a good idea to check out the location of that new MC to see how much it was going to intrude into the drivers "foot space" before ripping it back out and going to plan "Z" ?? Since the 48 is eventually going to be my Grandaughters anyway, I thought I'd let her take a little "test drive" with the new seat in place to check it out !! I think, with a properly designed cover, we can make this work, or not !!! ( live-n-learn!!) I missed some of your posts of your MC install. I took these photos today of my MC install, floor area. The Mustang ll MC without the cover, came about even with the floor. I put a piece of insulation over the floor cutout, with only a small hump in the floor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 These photos are not very good. I believe I installed my MC with a little of a downward tilt toward the rear, to compensate being close to the floor. The pushrod goes through the original master cylinder with a downward tilt. This does not put any bind on the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 Your right Mr. Horne; without the lid, the actual MC body does come level with the floor. It's that lid with it's wire retainer that will eventually be above floor level. I'm working on coming up with a cover that can be taken off by removeing a couple of screws. or maybe with a hinge on one side. One of the problems I see after a cursory "look-see", is that it appears the oval cutout in the floor for the new MC will extend into the removable floor section ??? Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezeldoc Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 Here is how i mounted my master, i did not like the way it lined up using the old master. Used the old shaft and made a new mount and bushing for it and then made a bracket for the master, a new rod and good as gold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 On my P-15 I had to make a patch panel to cover the dual chamber master cylinder. I thought about hinging the cover but I elected to screw it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 (edited) Well I finally got that crossmember with the built in motor mounts cut to fit the frame. While I was at the "chop-saw" I also trimmed the transmission crossmember to fit: it will require a specially designed mounting bracket for the drivers side due to that Mustang II MC, but I think I've got that figured out, at least "in-my-head"!! It's just been too cold in my garage for me to get down on that concrete floor to find answers to those questions I "put-forth" in a previous post. My major concern is, using my existing motor mounts , just how low on the frame will it be necessary to attach the ends of that crossmember?? I'm thinking maybe too low?? Anyhow, I've already started working on "plan-B", a more conventional motor mount set-up. I purchased the engine mounts and a set of Universal Motor Mount Cushions earlier, now to "Fab-up" the frame mounts. Cass, alias littlemo... Add: Don, I think your solution to the cover thing will work just fine. Won't take anytime to remove those four screws for servicing the MC, and there'll be less chance of air or moisture leakage.. Thanks!! Also; dezeldoc, wish I had thought of your idea earlier !!! lol... Edited December 11, 2011 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Looks like that's taking some serious thinking, Cass. Glad to see you're getting in some hours on it, though. You'll be up and running before you know it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted December 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Thanks big guy, but It'll be next spring or summer for sure before it's "running". Not much done around here in the winter months, unless we get a really warm spell, old body just won't take that "frigid" weather!! Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Thanks big guy, but It'll be next spring or summer for sure before it's "running". Not much done around here in the winter months, unless we get a really warm spell, old body just won't take that "frigid" weather!! Cass, alias littlemo... I hear ya on that! ...our high temp for today said to be 28°, and down to 12° tonight so I'll be sitting close to the heater... where are you located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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