Alshere59 Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 Ok here is a long back ground Running a 40 R 7 overdrive 50 Bell housing 55 230 engine Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing everything is new or rebuilt. Problem is that the clutch seems to be hanging up. You release it then occasionally it will hang and nothing then bam it engages. It is not continues but very intermittent. Cant get it to do it while I'm under it with the inspection plate off. Mock up showed nothing with the spline. A side note was upon assembly the clutch rod going to the fork was to short, I had it lengthened by weld in a 1" spacer to give adjustment. I chocked that up to the new flywheel and pressure plate etc.. Any list of likely culprits? This most likely then this? Any suggestions would be helpful. Quote
oldodge41 Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 Does the pedal return the same amount every time? Could it be the pedal assembly hanging up on the floor? Does it do it when sitting level or only when twisted? I have seen a bad motor mount put enough of a bind on things to hang up a clutch, and when that happens it will usually not show up until the engine is under stress, such as pulling away from a stop. Same thing can happen with a bad pilot bushing, I've been told, but haven't experienced it myself. That is my .02 cents worth. I'm sure others will have more.......Tim Quote
Alshere59 Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Posted November 24, 2010 Pedal returns the clutch isn't engaged. Not hanging up on the floor. Motor mounts are new front and back. Just put in a rebuilt engine. Quote
oldodge41 Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 Possibly an alignment problem or pressure plate issue but I would check all the easier stuff before I went inside the bellhousing. If the pedal returns can you feel any excessive freeplay in it? Quote
old stovebolt Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 Sounds like the disk might be hanging up on the input shaft. Quote
Young Ed Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 Something similar happened in the 63 valiant after the engine swap. After some shifts it went away-we figured the input shaft got knicked during the install. How long has yours been acting up? Quote
Alshere59 Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Posted November 24, 2010 (edited) Ok a quick update. After watching the clutch linkage pressure plate and finding nothing. I took it out again. It acted up and disengaged itself. Basicall a quick jerk then free wheeled. That is a first never disengaged itself before. So I disengaged the OD on the R7 and drove it all through the subdivision. Did not act up once. I leave it in overdrive as the road at the end of my street is 55 MPH. So can the OD do that. The R7 is a centrifical clutch. I thought it disengaged below 28? Anyway off to find the wiring schematic to compare to what I have. Maybe call George Asche. Take care and any thoughts let me know. To answer the questio0ns for those offering help. Engine has roughgly 100 miles on it after the rebuild. Clutch pressure plate etc was all rebuilt or new at that time. Mock up let the disk slide on the spline easily. Tranny has maybe 250 miles since I installed it. Its a rebuild from Mr. Asche. Initial install was quirky as it shifted into overdrive at 38 to 42. It did not hang/fail to move like it is now though. The intent was to take it up and have Mr. Asche look at it after the engine was broke in. I have watched the linkage and clutch after taking off the sheet metal panel on the bottom of the bell housing. No hanging found anywhere while stationary. Have cleaned and regreased all the pivot/linkage points. Pedal returns to the top when it hangs and feels the same pushing down. So no change that I can tell anyway. Al Edited November 24, 2010 by Alshere59 Quote
Jim Yergin Posted November 24, 2010 Report Posted November 24, 2010 Al, I know you have an R7 and not an R10 but the Borg Warner R10 manual that can be downloaded from the Downloads page on the P15D24 site, states that when the transmission will not drive the car unless the O/D is locked out, it may indicate that there is a broken clutch roller, the roller cage is stuck or the clutch cam is worn. Your intermittent problem of sudden engagement might be caused not by a totally stuck roller cage but by a sticking roller cage that eventually gets unstuck and engages the drive. Just a thought. Jim Yergin Quote
Alshere59 Posted November 24, 2010 Author Report Posted November 24, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the information. I am looking at it now. The solenoid is engaged all the time if memory serves. Would a electric short disengage and reengage it? Edited November 24, 2010 by Alshere59 Added ?? Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 (edited) Its a rebuild from Mr. Asche. Al So call George. Edited November 25, 2010 by Don Coatney Quote
Alshere59 Posted November 25, 2010 Author Report Posted November 25, 2010 So all George. George rebuilt it yes. Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 25, 2010 Report Posted November 25, 2010 George rebuilt it yes. So call him. Sorry for the all typo Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 26, 2010 Report Posted November 26, 2010 (edited) If you feel the clutch is ok, I'd be looking at the transmission- especially in the OD free wheeling rollers and cam section in the OD rear case. Possibly the rollers are not ramping/ or hanging up and not transmitting power through the output shaft-just a thought! Also the solenoid is energized only for kick down to pull out of OD, maybe double check the wiring and solenoid too. Bob Edited November 26, 2010 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Alshere59 Posted November 27, 2010 Author Report Posted November 27, 2010 (edited) So call him. Sorry for the all typo Calling is on the agenda. I will wait to make sure it is not electrical. I think it is in the od itself though. When locked out there is no problem. Either way I want to make sure it is in his area. Edited November 29, 2010 by Alshere59 Quote
Alshere59 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) Well called George. The transmissio0n will be there tomorrow. So the car is missing its tranny and the Dizzy is out heading to then and now Antique autoparts cellar. At least the rebuilt engine seems to be fine. I could use another wiring diagram for an R7. Mine is a hand drawn one. Just to be on the safe side. Anyone? Edited December 3, 2010 by Alshere59 Quote
Jim Yergin Posted December 3, 2010 Report Posted December 3, 2010 I will be interested to learn what George finds wrong in the O/D. Jim Yergin Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 3, 2010 Report Posted December 3, 2010 Well called George. The transmissio0n will be there tomorrow. So the car is missing its tranny and the Dizzy is out heading to then and now Antique autoparts cellar. At least the rebuilt engine seems to be fine.I could use another wiring diagram for an R7. Mine is a hand drawn one. Just to be on the safe side. Anyone? Is this the one you have? Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 3, 2010 Report Posted December 3, 2010 Scarfed this from blueskies web site. This I believe is how the factory did it. Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 3, 2010 Report Posted December 3, 2010 If you have not read all the information at the following link you should do so. http://www.50plymouth.com/05-tra/tra.html Quote
Alshere59 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 Is this the one you have? Mine is not that detailed. I did connect it the same way. Just wanted to make sure my assumptions were correct. You know what they say about assuming. PS I have read all of Blue Skies site. He used the R 10 and wasn't sure how the wiring matched. Thanks for your posts. Quote
Alshere59 Posted December 10, 2010 Author Report Posted December 10, 2010 Well talked to George today. He didn't find anything wrong but has replaced everything in the overdrive section as a precaution. So weather permitting I will pick it up this weekend. Still a 10 hour round trip so that is probably all I will get done. I will post again when its in. A side note that I didn't mention was that the overdrive kicked in about 40 mph. The Governor was replaced as well So hoping its sorted out now. George was excellent to work with by the way. Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 10, 2010 Report Posted December 10, 2010 A few years back forum member Richie Hodge was on a road trip several hundred miles from home driving his GA overdrive equiped P-15. His generator failed and as soon as it did the overdrive would not stay engaged due to low voltage. Is the charging system in your car working correctly? The sons of George Asche run a starter/generator repair shop next door to where George lives. As long as you are going there you might want to take your generator and regulator along and have them check it out. Say Hi to George for me. Quote
Alshere59 Posted December 11, 2010 Author Report Posted December 11, 2010 Chargimg system works great. I have the tranny in the garage may get to it tomorrow. Put my rebuilt dizzy in when I got home. Runs good. Anyway will post on the transmission progress when its in. Don didnt get your post tell I got back sorry. Al Quote
Alshere59 Posted December 22, 2010 Author Report Posted December 22, 2010 (edited) Well the story continues I guess. Finally had dry roads and took the car out. The OD is basically engaged all the time now unless I push the lever in. So 1 through 3rd is in OD all the time unless I manually disengage it. Called George and he is going to swap it out for a R10. So when the weather gets a bit better thats on the agenda. Anyway will post again when that gets done. I can still drive it, just would be more like changing the gear ratio on the rear end than having an OD. While he is in driving distance, its still a 10 hour round trip Anyone ever ship one? What did it cost? Edited December 22, 2010 by Alshere59 added ? Quote
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