Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

how would i remove the cam with most of the tappets stuck in place where they are? i tried to turn them with a wrench, but no luck. the cam does move, but it is stuck on the tappets that stick up. this motor was full of water for about 5-10 years, so...

Posted

Can you get the valves out? With the engine upside down, you may be able to drive the tappets up towards the valves enough to gain clearance. Gently.

Posted (edited)

have ya tried heating with a torch? warm them until they start to change color, allow to cool to ambient temperature, then try to turn with a wrench, repeat this cycle until they break free. The cast iron will not expand as much the machined tappet, and the heat cycles should "flex" the surfaces enough to shed any oxidation that is binding the parts. Above all, be patient, as it took years for that machine to get into a poor state; it might take weeks to break everything loose.

Edited by JBNeal
revised information
Posted

well, it is difficult to pound on the tappets with the cam in the way! i have heated the entire block red hot to get the pistons out, which worked for that, except melting #1 piston!

Posted

I had 4 stuck valves...we just kept on rotating the cam as it came out to pass the stuck parts...took a bit...

Posted

look at it this way: i have an entirely stuck engine, where every part, even the rod caps, were a fight. these tappets are STUCK, they dont move at all. those things are not moving

Posted

erf...

sorry man...mine had 4 and I was cussing...maybe if you can slide it at ALL (I'd think you could get it to moveabout 1/2"?) so the cam has moved off the tappets and then you can try and moved them?

Posted
well, it is difficult to pound on the tappets with the cam in the way! i have heated the entire block red hot to get the pistons out, which worked for that, except melting #1 piston!

I think you might consider getting a good replacement core motor or better yet a good running engine!

Posted
well, the block is decent, so thats why i keeping it.

Are you sure the block is OK? Is there cylinder wall rust pitting-how deep-could cause you to thin (bore)the cylinder walls too much, then a hot running engine. Are the valve seats damaged/pitted deep from rust pitting-you can only grind the seats so much till ya need to replace the seats (Exh) install repacement intake seats to keep the valves up where they should be for best long valve life and proper flow. Is the rear main seal crank surface pitted excessively? Core plug bore recesses pitted-sometimes hard to get new plugs to seal permantly. You should really check the block out after getting it apart. Heating the block red hot is kinda extreme to do a tear down. I realize you gotta do what ya gotta do to getter done!

Bob

Posted

Has anybody on here ever tried Coke products (the soft drink) to disolve rust?

I hear about it from some of the old timers that you can use Coke to free up stuck engines. I have never tried it, on a stuck motor that is, but so they say, and I quote, "it works slicker than $h!t, and it tastes good too".

Mike

Posted
you know what, i never thought about it!

i will have to try it on the 41'

if it works, then i am officially NEVER DRINKING COKE AGAIN

Has anybody on here ever tried Coke products (the soft drink) to disolve rust?

I hear about it from some of the old timers that you can use Coke to free up stuck engines. I have never tried it, on a stuck motor that is, but so they say, and I quote, "it works slicker than $h!t, and it tastes good too".

Mike

http://www.thecoca-colacompany.com/contactus/myths_rumors/packaging_cleaner.html

http://listverse.com/2010/07/03/top-10-unusual-uses-for-coca-cola/

Here are some more choke a cola uses and some rumors from Coca Cola that claim they are not true

Posted

Coke will dissolve rust, albeit slowly. Phosphoric acid will do it faster. Basically the same thing in Coke that dissolves the rust, but in high concentration. Buy concrete cleaner for $15/gallon and try it. Flow it in with a small pump and catch it in a pan. It will take a couple few days to really dissolve substantial rust and will leave a black oxide in its place. I have a 5 gallon bucket of it for dipping parts. Be sure if you use acid that you are only working on ferrous metals, as it will disolve some others (bearings maybe?). Ask me how I know (fuel filter bracket from my old 240Z went in with more than it came out with, oops). Don't get it on the cement, it will eat it. Be aware that if you have used or will use that much heat on the block, you may have align boring issues on the cam and crank. Just a thought. Good luck.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use