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bias ply vs. radials


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been finally looking seriously for tires for the 53'. originals are 6.50-16, farm style. i do like aggressive treads, so i was looking at NDT's. the truck should put on about around 5,000 miles a year if i have to guess, between school and up north. what would be a better option? radials have better wear, but bias lasts longer as far as age, and i can get those NDT's for $80 apiece.

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Whomever told you that bias ply tires wear longer than radials didn't know schnitz about what he was speaking of. Radial tire technology is light-years ahead of the old bial ply tires. Radials ride better, handle nicer, use a larger footprint, so your brakes will work better in a panic stop, will last many thousands of miles longer than rag casings, and will give better fuel economy, because they roll more freely.

All this is not my own perosnal concoction, but has been proven over and over in many fleet situations. I worked for many years in the trucking industry. The advent of radial tires proved to save fuel and repair trips for tire work. They are safer, more resistant to punctures, etc. I drove school bus for eleven years. When we began to use radials, the incidences of flats dropped form several each week for the fleet to almost zero - lotsa' gravel road travel.

Putr radils on your old Pilothouse and then bite the bullet and buy four new gas shocks - eighteen bucks a piece at Auto Zone. It'll rode and handle better than any other sixrty-year-old truck on rthe road. IMHO

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I've got a set of Firestone bias ply tires on the '48, they've got 10,000 miles on them in ten years and are not weather cracked. But they are wore out, and the lumpy roads around my neck of the woods made for an adventure each time I took it out for a spin. I'm definitely putting 215/85R16s on those rims after I straighten the frame & whutnot.

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I have 9 year-old 235-75-15 Remington radials on my '53 1/2 ton, and it drives really nice and handles the curves great, even with the worn springs. Still a lot of tread left on them...

I have 6.7 x 15 Firestone bias ply tires on my '55 Chevy Bel Air, and it rides and handles like crap. Follows the grooves and seams in the road and I have to take corners very slow. They have about 10,000 miles and are not wearing that well. I will be getting radials soon...

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http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=3738&highlight=radial+tires

I used the search function for "radial tires"

The above thread speaks of 215/85R16 as the ideal for our 16" narrow rims

The key is to use a metal two piece valve stem to overcome the oval hole.

This allows the original rim to run tubless tires.

Love em

Dennis

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OK, but I have a 48 B1D with the old split rims. Been told by my tire guy he won't install radials unless I replace the rims due to the history of the rims separating. Reluctantly he would install nylon ply as they don't apply as much pressure on the rims. What say you all?

I don't understand why bias ply woukld apply less pressure to the bead area than a radial. Air pressure in non- directional inside a tire as far as I know unless he thinks a stiffer sidewall will exert less pressure. Air pushes them both out to seal against the beads. How much less? His source of information? Testing?

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I've heard similar hooey about radials on lock-ring rims, and it's based on inaccurate use of tire information. Tubeless radial tires require more air pressure to seat the bead on a continuous bead rim because more force is needed to move the mass of the bead & inner-liner. Tube-type bias ply tires require much less air pressure to seat the bead on a lock-ring bead rim. If a radial tube & tire combo is mounted on a lock-ring rim, it would take much less air pressure to seat the bead than a tubeless radial tire on a continuous bead rim.

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