Engine Removal

[aero3113]

If the seal hits this is what it will look like-some dark discoloration. And yes that metal oil slinger type of oil seal IS very close to the TC chain. If the original old seal is carelessly pounded out it will cave in the timing cover just enough so when the new oil slinger type seal is pressed in with a unknowingly damaged TC cover you won't know there is a problem till you hear a rubbing noise down at the front of the engine and then you ask yourself what the hell is that noise?

Bummer!

When I spoke to VPW I told them that it was not rubbing when I turned the crank and they said it will be fine. I asked if it will make a difference with the engine running and they said no,with a fresh rebuild there should be no end play in the crank.

[55 Fargo]

Nothing wrong with a long thread. Keeps all the eggs in the same basket.

Depends, is this a Boo Bird Egg Basket:rolleyes:?.........LOL:p

[Dodgeb4ya]

When I spoke to VPW I told them that it was not rubbing when I turned the crank and they said it will be fine. I asked if it will make a difference with the engine running and they said no,with a fresh rebuild there should be no end play in the crank.

I just posted this infor for others to see if they didn't know about this seal style. Vintage is correct!

[aero3113]

I was looking through some pictures and noticed that my gasket kit came with 2 gaskets for the timing cover, were there two different style covers? I used the more narrower one on the bottom,seemed to fit the contour of the cover better.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[Specialdeluxe47]

http://bestgasket.com/pop_up_picture.asp?PartNumber=RS523C

If you go to the link above you will see alist for the BEST Gasket set different years use different looking gaskets. One is for 49-50 and the other one is for 33-48.

[aero3113]

http://bestgasket.com/pop_up_picture.asp?PartNumber=RS523C

If you go to the link above you will see alist for the BEST Gasket set different years use different looking gaskets. One is for 49-50 and the other one is for 33-48.

Great link, that clears up my questions about the timing cover seals and felt seal .

[BeBop138]

I also came up with a puller to pull the pilot bushing I tried it and used it with a slid hammer I have. I will have to double or triple up the safety wire because when I tried it it broke but it seems like it will work. Anyone have any other tricks to remove the bushing?

taped threads and found a very long shaft the same threads and welded a nut on the end and tightened slowly till the bolt bottomed out on the crank and wound it right out. I have a reply on the same thread awhile back----it showed pics of the piece I made..............Lee

[Big_John]

I also came up with a puller to pull the pilot bushing I tried it and used it with a slid hammer I have. I will have to double or triple up the safety wire because when I tried it it broke but it seems like it will work. Anyone have any other tricks to remove the bushing?

Find a pin or dowel the size of the hole. Fill the hole with grease and place the pin into the hole. Strike the pin with a hammer and the grease will push the bushing out.

[Joe Flanagan]

Here's how I got mine out. Nothing else I tried worked. Just hooked the bearing and kept prying.

[aero3113]

I tried my puller a few more times with no luck, I then took out my sawzall and cut a slit in the bushing. It still took a couple of poundings with the puller to get it out(with a little heat). I hit the crank slightly with the blade and made a score in it, no biggie shouldn't harm anything. I then went to install the new bushing with a block of wood and it went in slightly crooked so I pulled it out,when I did it was cracked. At the crack the bushing seems to be very porous and not a solid brass construction. Is there an easy way to install the bushing? It seems like it is a tight fit, I will have to pick up a new one tomorrow.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[greg g]

Put it in the freezer before your try to install it. I think they ar oilite or scintered bronze, the porous aspect is to hold some oil within the pores.

[aero3113]

Put it in the freezer before your try to install it. I think they ar oilite or scintered bronze, the porous aspect is to hold some oil within the pores.

Great idea, is a block of wood a good tool to use to drive it in? Should I use any grease?

[aero3113]

I just found this post by Bebop138 in another thread,wish I found it earlier he has found a easy way to pull the bushing. But sure enough my bushing is magnetic,anyone know where to get the good type or have a part number? The one I used was from Tennessee Clutch, National Part Number PB-286.

"Pick this gem up on the web, took about three minutes to do and bushing came right out. First tap the bushing ( I was doing a Chev type, used 5/8 tap ), clean threads,insert bolt till it bottoms out in crank,turn slowly with even pressure and the bushing walks out. $5 bucks and welding the nut on. Cheap tool and works great.................Lee P.S. Another thing some of the bushings have been made in China---they use some steel mixed in their bushings. It make them not as good for lubricating the input shaft----use a real Oilite bushing----any of the bushings that you can pick with a magnet----DO NOT USE. "

[greg g]

end of an old broomstick ( are they still wood these days) or dowel. Put mine in with a bit of assembly lube or oil,, been about 10 years.

Edited February 24, 2011 by greg g

[aero3113]

I just ordered a pilot bushing from Vintage Power Wagons and they recommended to freeze it also. I also ordered a magnetic oil pan drain plug,I figured it wouldn't hurt to have that installed.

[Don Coatney]

I just found this post by Bebop138 in another thread,wish I found it earlier he has found a easy way to pull the bushing. But sure enough my bushing is magnetic,anyone know where to get the good type or have a part number? The one I used was from Tennessee Clutch, National Part Number PB-286.

"

Interesting. Tennessee Clutch gave me a couple of bushings but I did not use them as I converted to a bearing. I just looked for them but I think I gave them away a while back. They do not look magnetic in this picture but I did not check them.

[aero3113]

Today I was able to install the manifolds,fuel pump and prime and paint the head. One of the main reasons I wanted to pull the engine besides not being happy with my oil pressure was to get a good coat of paint on everything,its nice to see it all coming together .

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

I took some close up shots to show how the spring and counter weight get installed on the exhaust manifold in case anyone needs it for future reference.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[greg g]

Looking very nice. I see you have one of those elusive P heads and that you block castig ad head casting show matching factory shifts so you should be good to go.

(nudge nudge, wink wink)

[Frank Elder]

I know you are in aviation but jeeesh.......It looks like a zinc chromate head and due to the lighting an alaodine pan..:DLooking good areo!

[aero3113]

Thanks Greg.

When I replaced my head gasket a few years ago I did not use any copper spray and had no issues. Some people say to use the copper spray,what do you guys think? I picked up this spray by permatex is it the correct type if I do use it? I used 2 head bolts to hook the engine hoist chains up when I removed the engine and plan on doing the same to install it. Will it be ok if I torque all of the head bolts and leave the 2 head bolts for the chain loose and once the engine is in torque them down? My head gasket is for the internal bypass head and has the little bump on it, I know it is ok for the external bypass head but do not like how the little bump sticks out beyond the head, has anyone cut the bump off without having any sealing issues? Am I being too picky? should I just leave it as is? I was on blueskies site www.50plymouth.com and it looks like he cut his bump off.

Edited March 3, 2011 by aero3113

[aero3113]

I know you are in aviation but jeeesh.......It looks like a zinc chromate head and due to the lighting an alaodine pan..:DLooking good areo!

Yes, Zinc Chromate primer but no alodine was used on the engine, LoL.

[P-12 Tommy]

Thanks Greg.

When I replaced my head gasket a few years ago I did not use any copper spray and had no issues. Some people say to use the copper spray,what do you guys think? I picked up this spray by permatex is it the correct type if I do use it? I used 2 head bolts to hook the engine hoist chains up when I removed the engine and plan on doing the same to install it. Will it be ok if I torque all of the head bolts and leave the 2 head bolts for the chain loose and once the engine is in torque them down? My head gasket is for the internal bypass head and has the little bump on it, I know it is ok for the external bypass head but do not like how the little bump sticks out beyond the head, has anyone cut the bump off without having any sealing issues? Am I being too picky? should I just leave it as is? I was on blueskies site www.50plymouth.com and it looks like he cut his bump off.

I left the bump alone on my '41 and it's fine. BTW.... I used the same copper spray.

[Joe Flanagan]

I think once you get that thing in the engine bay and all the other stuff attached (like the water pump), you will never notice that bump.

[aero3113]

I think once you get that thing in the engine bay and all the other stuff attached (like the water pump), you will never notice that bump.

Yea, I guess your right. What do you guys think about the head bolts?