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2 Nagging Problems


HanksB3B

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1. My radiator was re-cored but almost from day one it has a small leak along the tank seam.

Can it be repaired while in the truck, or am I just asking for the paint to be damaged?

Once the hood is off it can be removed easily I guess.

2. I need to replace a freeze plug. What is the best practice?

Thanks,

Hank :)

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NAPA has the block core plugs. Just run a punch thru the old one and pry it out. Then carefully clean and de-burr the hole riim where the new plug will seat. Run a bead of #1 hardening Permatex sealer around the hole and plop the new one in place. Now get two ball pien hammers and place the ball of one in the center of the new block core plug Hit the hammer face with the other hammer enough to dent the center of the core plug inward a little. That is all that holds it.

Don't be too aggressive and pound the new plug into the hole. A little common sense is called for here, and you'll have a repair that will outlast your lifetime, unless you are a lot younger than I am. It's a good idea to clean out any debri you find behind the plug, whilst it's out.

Just one other nugget for 'ya. If you can find ';'em, brass core plugs will far outlast the more common steel type.

Happy hunting.

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... Just run a punch thru the old one and pry it out. ...

I've used self-drilling, self-tapping sheet metal screws: Just run one into the center of the plug enough to get the threads a good grip. Then take the claw end of a carpenter's hammer hook it on the screw head and pull the plug out like you'd pull out a nail. Don C has posted pictures of the same so I guess I am not the only one that does it that way.

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Or, you can use a punch near the edge of the core plug and turn it sideways and pull it out with a pair of pliers.

No 1 Hardening, No 2 non-hardening, aviation gasket all work for sealing. Clean off the excess when finished so it looks professional. DON'T use RTV sealants. Excess on the inside comes loose and ends up in places it doesn't belong.

A radiator shop won't fix it in the truck. Doing it yourself, it can be, depending on what part of the seam it is in but the better the access, the better the likely hood of a successful repair.

Edited by Dave72dt
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So far the info is enough to confirm my thoughts about installing the freeze plugs. I was thinking use some sort of sealant someone else told me not to but I think it's the right thing to do...just a small bead not more than a 1/16" or so. I don;t know what RTV sealants are (but I'll make sure not to use this).

Not looking forward to removing my hood to get the radiator out but it probably won't rain till January so for a couple of days I guess it could be fun.

Not sure I want to take it back to the guy who did the job...you know how that goes...I'm pretty convinced if someone does poor workmanship in the first place, why (other than $) would you want him to do it over.

Dave, there is plenty of access as the leak is halfway between the center and right edge of the radiator. Is it just a matter of wire brushing the area clean and using a Bernzomatic torch, or would I have to add lead. Think I'll more than likely remove the radiator and bring it to a shop, but I'd like to know how it's done if you DIY.

Thanks,

Hank :)

Edited by HanksB3B
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Radiator repair on the seams is like any soldering job. The repair area needs to be spotlessly clean. Soldering paste is used to remove any contaminants left and acid core solder used. The torch needs to be able to heat the repair area quickly so extra areas do not become affected by the melted solder. For cleanup and paint afterwards, the acid needs to be neutralized, which I wouldn't do until the rad is tested again for leaks.

RTVs are those silcone gaskets -in- a- tube. I personally find a very limited use for the stuff. I've dug enough out it of oil and water, carb passages from failed parts to justify my thoughts.

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clean the area with muratic acid then solder . Or drain all your anifreezre out of it. Flush with clear water. run the moter and get it hot after filling with water. . Add water glass to it and let it curculate. After it seals replace the anti freeze. You can get water glass at your local pharacey.

Noel, thanks the thing of it is it's such a small leak and probably would not have occured except that I used the radiator cap that was on the truck before the rebuild It was a 16lb pressure cap. After a few of the guys said they use 4lb I moved to that, but the harm was already done

What exactly is "Water Glass" ? and why won't it clog other important openings in the distribution tube and other small passages. That is what scares me about using stop-leak additives.

Thanks,

Hank :)

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Yes, it took me 3 times to get a freeze plug in.

The first one felt too tight as 1-5/8 is a nominal dimension it got tweeked, leeked and had to be thrown away.

On the second one I thought I'd be smarter and sand the edge slightly until I could tell it would seat evenly on the inner-lip before I hit the center with a ball peen hammer. I wanted to use some Permatex Type 1A hardening Gasket compound, but it slipped in past the point of coming back out again, so I tried to tap the center but I over did it and it leaked.

I went back to the store and bought two more Brass Dorman (Welsch?) freeze plugs. I asked John (the owner) how he did them and he suggested using the Permatex Type 1A and seating the freeze plug by pounding the freeze plug flat by using a socket or hardwood dowel with an outside diameter as close to the diameter of the freeze plug as possible. Sanded a little as before, used the Permatex and it worked!

Back in the game,

Hank

Next...the tiny leak in the radiator...humm..

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Got the same problem, these things are Tight! do I have to use a sealant agent like Permatex? will they leak if I just wack them in without ?

Yes, it took me 3 times to get a freeze plug in.

The first one felt too tight as 1-5/8 is a nominal dimension it got tweeked, leeked and had to be thrown away.

On the second one I thought I'd be smarter and sand the edge slightly until I could tell it would seat evenly on the inner-lip before I hit the center with a ball peen hammer. I wanted to use some Permatex Type 1A hardening Gasket compound, but it slipped in past the point of coming back out again, so I tried to tap the center but I over did it and it leaked.

I went back to the store and bought two more Brass Dorman (Welsch?) freeze plugs. I asked John (the owner) how he did them and he suggested using the Permatex Type 1A and seating the freeze plug by pounding the freeze plug flat by using a socket or hardwood dowel with an outside diameter as close to the diameter of the freeze plug as possible. Sanded a little as before, used the Permatex and it worked!

Back in the game,

Hank

Next...the tiny leak in the radiator...humm..

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In theory the plugs should seal without using a sealer like permatex however I'd make sure the ledge on the block is clean with no crap, then wipe a thin smear of permatex around the ledge and use a brass plug, the plug should just sit on the ledge, then use a drift/bolt of approx 3/8-1/2" diameter and centre punch the plug............this will flatten the plug and in turn wedge the plug edges hard into the ledge around the hole sealing the plug into the permatex and the hole.......the hardest part is getting access to the plug and being able to swing the hammer in a confined space......andyd

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They seem just so tight, my block is acid cleaned so they just should fit in..

In theory the plugs should seal without using a sealer like permatex however I'd make sure the ledge on the block is clean with no crap, then wipe a thin smear of permatex around the ledge and use a brass plug, the plug should just sit on the ledge, then use a drift/bolt of approx 3/8-1/2" diameter and centre punch the plug............this will flatten the plug and in turn wedge the plug edges hard into the ledge around the hole sealing the plug into the permatex and the hole.......the hardest part is getting access to the plug and being able to swing the hammer in a confined space......andyd
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Ideally if freeze plug hole on the block were newly machined as it was when first manufactured and the freeze plug was being installed for the first time with the engine block on a bench, it would be very simple to install metal to metal with no sealant.

The nature of the new Dorman 560-023 1-5/8" plug is that it is a stamped part. As viewed under a microscope, the part would show die-slice marks along the stamped edge. As minor and almost invisible as these stamp marks are it makes sense to me to use a thin smear around the ledge as Dave72dt and AndyDodge suggested especially as the block itself will have minor abrasions as well due to who knows who or who knows when the freeze plug was last messed with before you owned your truck.

The hole in the block of course should be as clean, rust-free and smooth as you can get it. I chose to edge sand the freeze plug with 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper both to remove the machine marks and to get the part to feel as though it would seat onto the ledge with a minor amount of tapping on a hardwood block with my ball peen hammer.

I used a 1" socket but ideally I'd have rather used a 1-1/4" dia. x 2"-3" long hardwood dowel to flatten the freeze plug so as not to mar the face of the soft brass plug.

Thanks everyone for your help,

Hank :)

Edited by HanksB3B
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Got the same problem, these things are Tight! do I have to use a sealant agent like Permatex? will they leak if I just wack them in without ?

I prefer to use a sealant simply because it gives me the best opportunity for installing without a leak. My engines are usually painted before testing for leaks is possible and usually in the frame so whatever I can do to eliminate them I do. Same thing with gaskets. Properly prepped surfaces and attention to detail help tremendously in reducing/eliminating oil and water leaks.

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