How to lube up your cylinders...

[thrashingcows]

Since the motor I picked up for Fernando has been sitting for a while, I figured I better lube up the cylinders before rotating it. Now obviously due to the flat head design you don't have direct access to the cylinder like a OHV motor.

So I had to put on my thinking cap...here is what i came up with...

Using my little hand pump oiler I found a piece of flexible small vacuum hose and then squeezed it over the tip. Then a small piece of electrical tape to hold it in place and Viola!!

I just feed the hose over the valves and then down into the cylinder, then a few pumps and on to the next cylinder.

[randroid]

thrashingcows,

Spiffy idea that was cheap to build and works as well as anything could. Along the concept of superior lubrication, you might be interested in something presented by a forum member a few years ago:

http://www.masterlube.net

I know that along with disc brakes their oiling system is something I want to install on Pigiron when she gets back on the road.

-Randy

[41/53dodges]

now just make it work with the ATF-acetone and you will have it made!

[thrashingcows]

thrashingcows,

Spiffy idea that was cheap to build and works as well as anything could. Along the concept of superior lubrication, you might be interested in something presented by a forum member a few years ago:

http://www.masterlube.net

I know that along with disc brakes their oiling system is something I want to install on Pigiron when she gets back on the road.

-Randy

Only thought I have about that pre-lube system is...if you have the mechanical unit then your technically adding oil to your crank case every time you do this.

From what I could garner from their website the electronic, with accumulator, is the only system that uses the crank case oil to refill and therefore not add to your capacity.

Great Idea though!!

now just make it work with the ATF-acetone and you will have it made!

I had thought of that as well...just need to find a little hand pump that doesn't have any rubber seals. Or if it does figure out if there are seals that won't deteriorate from the acetone, and then replace with those.

[randroid]

thrashingcows,

That was my original thought too, but it says in the literature that the cylinder is immediately recharged with oil upon starting and the correct oil level is maintained in the pan.

Anyone here have hands-on experience with this device?

-Randy

[JIPJOBXX]

Well I don't know why you just couldn't pour some oil in the spark plug by hand? But the amount of oil put in the top should just be burnt oft when you light oft your engine. I know when I blew that gasket a few weeks ago I think the neighbors thought I had lit oft a barrel fuel of oil. Boy did my old car smoke for a few minutes.

[Captain Neon]

I just flood out the carb every fall with about 1 pt. MMO or ATF when I put my car away for winter. By how much she smokes every spring at start-up, plenty of pre-lube. I then change oil to remove a winter's worth of condensation from the crankcase.

[Merle Coggins]

That pre-lube system has nothing to do with upper cylinder lubrication. It will only pressurise your regular lube system to ensure that all of your bearings have oil prior to start-up.

In my opinion those systems are a waste of money. If you've ever replaced crankshaft bearings in an engine while it's still in the chassis you will know that there is a lot of oil still in the bearings and crankshaft oil passages even if the engine has been sitting for months. I've had plenty of polka-dotted, oil stained, t-shirts with evidence of that.

Merle

[41/53dodges]

there are some that take it.

[jd52cranbrook]

I have run the master lube for about three years.

It may be a waste of money to some, but it is great peace of mind to me. Works great, recharges instantaneous. I have hurt my engine at least one time by lack of oil or a cold start, and there was still plenty of oil on the bearings when I tore it down. It wont happen again.

Plus it looks good, and is a great conversation piece.

It is to the far right on the firewall of this pic.

With this, I also put a idiot light for low oil pressure so I don't stare at the pressure gauge all day. Anyone who has lost oil by a broken line, or torn oil pan will know what I mean.

Sorry I don't have a single pic of it, instead of the vid, guess I will have to take one.

It is a bit costly, but for all the reasons mentioned above, its one of the best buys I have done for my car.

[jd52cranbrook]

I say that with no disrespect to anyone's opinion, these are just mine.

[Captain Neon]

As some one that likes to waste his money on "worthless snake oil" (fuel system cleaner, MMO, lead additive, Restore, and ZDDP), I will never fault any one that chooses to spend a few dollars on gadgets for their hobby cars.

[thrashingcows]

As some one that likes to waste his money on "worthless snake oil" (fuel system cleaner, MMO, lead additive, Restore, and ZDDP), I will never fault any one that chooses to spend a few dollars on gadgets for their hobby cars.

.....sure we are all guilty of that to some degree or another.

[Powerhouse]

jd52cranbrook...

DANG that motor sounds goooood!

[jd52cranbrook]

As some one that likes to waste his money on "worthless snake oil" (fuel system cleaner, MMO, lead additive, Restore, and ZDDP), I will never fault any one that chooses to spend a few dollars on gadgets for their hobby cars.

.....sure we are all guilty of that to some degree or another.

I appreciate that.... This hobby keeps me out of trouble.........

jd52cranbrook...

DANG that motor sounds goooood!

Thank you, she does sound good, runs smooth too.

[Andydodge]

Had a look at the masterlube site but couldn't find out what it actually does or how it works, by that I mean wher/how it connects up...........I assume it keeps oil pressurised in the system?......anyone got a simple explanation........lol............thanks, andyd

[jd52cranbrook]

You hook it up to a spare oil inlet. There area about three on the driver's side if I remember right.

It needs 12 volts, (not sure about 6, but it does need power)

You fill it half full with oil. Close it up, there is a air inlet on the top. You pressurize it to the same amount your gauge usually is while running.

You run a switch to your dash somewhere. If your car has been sitting a long time, you hit the switch, (it is a normally open switch), it closes the circuit and a valve opens at the bottom of the reservoir and pumps oil into the bearings, oil ways. Once you see pressure on your gauge you turn off the switch and fire your car up. When running, the valve opens up again and accepts the same amount of oil and pressure back in the canister, then shuts off.

If you want to change the oil in it, you just keep the switch on until the pressure reading subsides, meaning all the oil is out of the tank.

It works really well, as I say I have had it for about three years.

[randroid]

Folks,

I couldn't find the original literature I read previously (I think they must have 'improved' their site) but as I recall it's activated by the starter button and as the the oil pressure rises as the engine starts a one-way valve admits oil back into the cylinder.

I don't sell this device but I have studied it to a point. With respect to all who have seen oil on bearings and throws after months of non-use (I am one of them) consider that in a running engine there's a .0005" layer of oil on each of the metal surfaces giving .001 total. With most bearings sporting .002" clearance that gives .001" free play for heat expansion, but I doubt any engine that's sat for any length if time will have that thickness of oil. All auto manufacturers admit the greatest damage done to engines is at start-up and that's why that maximum pressure seems important to me when it's first cranked.

I can't speak for the 6v. compatibility.

-Randy

[T120]

...If a vehicle is being stored for a length of time fogging oil has been recommended -(you may google "fogging oil").Other than that,there is a lot of variables,temperature and viscosity of oil in the crankcase,and how long the engine has remained idle.As Merle mentioned there is oil remaining on the bearing surfaces and in passages and if the engine is run on a regular basis there shouldn't be cause for concern -imho

[jd52cranbrook]

You hook it up to a spare oil inlet. There area about three on the driver's side if I remember right.

It needs 12 volts, (not sure about 6, but it does need power)

You fill the canister half full with oil. Put the top back on. There is a air inlet on the top. You pressurize it to roughly the same amount your dash gauge usually is while running.

You run a switch to your dash somewhere. I run mine off the ignition when on. If your car has been sitting a long time, you hit the switch, (it is a normally open switch), it closes the circuit and a valve opens at the bottom of the reservoir and the air pressure shoots oil into the bearings, oil ways. Once you see pressure on your dash gauge, turn off the switch and fire your car up. When running, the valve opens up again and accepts the oil back into the reservoir until the pressure is equal to the original setting. It comes with it's own gauge.

If you want to change the oil in it, you just keep the switch on until the pressure reading goes back to zero, meaning all the oil is out of the tank.

It works really well, as I say I have had it for about three years.

I should have been more clear, sorry, I will edit the above

I also realize some don't approve of anything not made 50 years ago, but hey, I like it. That's what counts.

And you know what? It saves my engine wear and tear, you cant argue that.

[jd52cranbrook]

Thrasingcows, I am sorry to jump your thread somewhat. It is true this device does not lube the cylinders. Your idea works great.

[thrashingcows]

Thrasingcows, I am sorry to jump your thread somewhat. It is true this device does not lube the cylinders. Your idea works great.

No problem...I have enjoyed where this has gone....

Mine was just to get some oil in the cylinders before I rotated it, the motor is sitting on a dolly on the floor of my garage.