dual carb linkage on right side of carburetor, any one have pics

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Does anyone have a dual carb setup with the linkages set up like the older cars, on the right side of the carburetors instead of pulling straight towards the middle of the head. If so, can I see some pictures.

Thanks,

Rebecca

[greg g]

What did you come up with??? Many of the trucks have their throttle linkage affixed to the intake maifold I think.

[Plymouthy Adams]

maybe Lou will post a pic of his 34 Plymouth with dual carbs..his linkage is on the right outboard of the carbs..

[mackster]

Im signing up on this thread, Im planning to do something similar..

[Andydodge]

I dunno if this helps but as I'm RHD none of our cars have the linkage/bellcrank arrangement that you LHD guys & lady have.......I've attached a pic of the basic carb setup on my mocked up engine.....dunno if this helps at all.......what actually do you need to see Rebecca?........Andyd

[james curl]

I believe its Tom Langdon that makes an adapter to turn the carburetors 90 degrees on the manifold, placing the throttle shafts at right angles to the engine center-line. Depending on which way you place the actual throttle arm side of the carburetor the linkage would run over the exhaust side of the engine only if the push pull motion is in the correct direction when mashing the gas pedal down.

[moose]

Rebecca, you have so many pictures of my car I thought sure you'd have some of my linkage...

This on my Tattersfield intake, and it came with the studs set to put the carbs this way so that's the way I ran it. It has the option of changing the studs to turn the carbs 90 degrees, but I never found it necessary. When I first installed it on my '55(first picture-years ago) I set it up as a push-push linkage, with a shaft running over the head. Not the best way, but it worked fine. The other pictures are on the A and it's a pull linkage to the rear carb, then it pushes the front carb. Seems to work a lot better. I used the cross bar(attached by the top two bell-housing bolts) from the pedal to the carbs, that came from the same truck the bell-housing came from.

Doing this intake I chose to put the fuel bowls of the carbs away from the head, so the linkage is to the inside. It just seemed easier that way, and I didn't want the fuel lines running over the head.

Hope this helps. What did you find Rebecca?

[n1gzd_plymouth]

I can't believe this but I don't have a picture of my linkage/manifolds the way it looks now (only a nice picture of it before i installed the linkage and new cables).

Here is a picture of it the way I got it. The accelerator pedal actuator rod goes across the back of the firewall and the bents 90% deg forward on the right side of the engine. I was hoping to use the same scheme.

Moose, I did not think to check your pictures. I see that your linkage is on the left side of the carbs ( mine is on the right), but you appear to have the same type of rod that goes across the back of the firewall. It appears that yours does not have the the 90 deg bend in it (but it is hard to see in your pics). I wil check some of my pics. I want to still keep my manual choke and manual throttle (in lieu of high idle cam). I wanted to keep some of the vintage features of the car.

Thanks,

Rebecca

[n1gzd_plymouth]

moose, I forgot to say, I like what you did, it is well designed and robust.

Rebecca

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Moose, I see that your dual manifolds have the stud direction 90 deg to mine (carbs are oriented differently).

Here is another pic of yours (a thing of beauty):

http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/CarEvents2009/AlterBoys/imgpages/image331.html

Rebecca

[blueskies]

Mine pulls toward the center from right to left, but I did use a Lokar throttle cable from the gas pedal to the linkage. The cable fits the gas pedal like it was meant for it on the '50 style pedal. Not sure how the pedal works on your version though. The cable makes it easy to pull the throttle linkage in any direction, assuming you can make it work with the pedal. And, it gets rid of all the slop in the factory mechanical linkage.

Pete

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Wow that is slick! What carburetors are those. How concerned do I need to be about having too much carburetor for my 230? (2 carbs). My engine is pretty stock. I don't want to make the mistake that my husband made with his cuda (he already tried jetting it down and that was not enough).

Rebecca

[blueskies]

Wow that is slick! What carburetors are those. How concerned do I need to be about having too much carburetor for my 230? (2 carbs). My engine is pretty stock. I don't want to make the mistake that my husband made with his cuda (he already tried jetting it down and that was not enough).

Rebecca

My carbs are Holley/Webber 5200's. My engine isn't stock though... it's a 230 bored .030 over with a 3/4 cam, 9:1 compression head, headers, and HEI. The carbs are right out of the box, and it runs great. Might be a tad rich, but nothing I can't live with. The carbs were originally designed for a pinto four cylinder and are just about perfect for the 230.

You can read all about my engine on my Plymouth site in my signature.

Pete

[moose]

So come on Rebecca, let us in! What do you have? I want pictures!

[n1gzd_plymouth]

This early Fenton.

Rebecca

[moose]

Very nice! Good score!

[n1gzd_plymouth]

should I make an aluminum plate to seal up the heat riser connection?

Rebecca

[blueskies]

What are you planning for your exhaust manifold?

If you are running headers I would fab a plate for water heat to the intake.

My edmunds intake has a pipe cast into the length of it that connects to the heater hose. It warms up very fast, and I've found that no matter how cold it gets, it starts without any choke at all and by the time I've backed out of the garage, it is warmed up and ready to go.

Pete

[n1gzd_plymouth]

I am probably running cast iron headers.

I won't be driving in the winter.

All of my cars that have a heat riser have it stuck in the already warmed up postion (including my current exhaust manifold on the plymouth). I have never noticed a particular problem warming up. I did use the choke when it is cold (but that would only be spring and fall - not really cold weather when there is salt on the road).

If I just blocked it up would it be the equivalent of how my current one is set up.

Also, I would think that since it is aliminum, it would just heat up by being next to the exhaust headers.

what do you think?

Rebecca

[greg g]

Glad you won that auction, sorry it got that high. IF it were me I wouldn't worry about the carb heat, I run mine without and even driving in the early spring or late fall when the temps are below freezing, I have not oticed any drivability issues. My engine is a basically stock 230 running the same intake and two stock carbs. its 30 over and I had the head milled and the block decked total of .050. Over the road gas milage went up over the single carbed 218. I think the higher compression ratio is the ticket to a lot of extra umph.

I think if I were you I would investigate Pete's cable style solution instead of modifying the carb mounts and linkages.

[n1gzd_plymouth]

I like Petes cable solution. My only concern is that it is less "vintage" looking (but I might do something like that too).

Regarding your setup. Yours is blocked off correct (you did not leave it uncovered right)?

Thanks,

Rebecca

[greg g]

I am running the stock exhaust manifold with the flap welded in the no heat to manifold position. I took a thin piece of stainless cut to size and made a cover installed with the manifold. I counter sunk come oval head screws and put them in from the top down. then ground them nearly flush with the stainless. there is nothing on the bottom of the intake.

Before we returned from our trip to Maryland where it was chilly (high 30's low 40') and damp and rainy I zip tied the heater return hose to the intake but I noticed no difference.

[moose]

I think you are going to have issues with using the cross bar. The motion of the arm of the bar is going to have to be turned 90 degrees. That's what the bracket on your stock manifold does.

It may be that my Tattersfield, with the carbs able to go either way may have been designed with the earlier cars in mind because they used this type of linkage.

I'm planning on building a new side-draft intake for the A in the next few months, and we might be able to work out a deal so that you could have it on loan for a while. I don't want to sell it, but we can talk.

[n1gzd_plymouth]

Moose,

I am honored that you would make such an offer. However, as much as I lust after your intake, I think that I will be happy with my Fenton. Thanks for the offer. I am sure I will want to bounce some ideas off you sometime.

Rebecca

[blueskies]

Also, I would think that since it is aliminum, it would just heat up by being next to the exhaust headers.

what do you think?

Rebecca

The purpose of the manifold heat isn't so much to help the engine warm up, but to keep the air/fuel mixture from condensing on the inside of the intake, causing the engine to load up. The air moving through the intake makes it get colder, and can even cause ice to form if there is enough humidity in the air.

Lots of guys are running dual intakes like this without the heat with no issues. But the manifold heat was put there for a reason. On a V8, the intake is warmed by the block, on a flathead six, the intake hangs off the side of the engine and gets little heat from the block or exhaust.

Pete