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Heat Riser (or lack there of)


DanOlson

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Attached is a pic of my exhaust manifold from the 53 B4-C. As you can see the heat riser is long gone. I thought as long as I have it apart, I may as well replace it. I know this has been on the forum as to sources but the only source I can come up with is VPW. What should the finished product look like. The peg is in the intake to hold tension on the bi-metallic spring.

Dan Olson

post-1436-13585352504664_thumb.jpg

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Dan. I see you live in Minnesota, and I don't know if you are lanning to drive your truck in the winter, so if you do this won't help much, but I welded my flap in the horizontal position within the chamber, cut off the pivot ends and welded them shut, made a block off piece from a piece or thins stainless steel and haven;t run theheat riser. I run my car from march to November, ad never had an issue regarding its not being there. So if you are oly going to use your truck as a fair weather driver, that presennts anouther option if you are not going to be erntering it into strictly judges shows.

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I red this ""a valve(heat riser) stuck in the open position causes problems such as slow warm up,carburetor icing,stalling and flat spots during acceleration"":)

Fernando , Greg welded his in the horizontal position , not in the position that you show in your picture .

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There has been much discussion regarding these items and their positions. If you can turn the pivot clock wise to its stop, the flap will be in the horizontal postion. This will block the exhaust flow from entering the heating chamber in the intake manifold. Some people refer to this as the closed position as it keeps the from entering that area. Some call it open because it opens up the exhaust flow. So which ever way you refer to it, the way you are going to operate the vehicle probably dictates whether you repair it or modify it. My useage is summer only, as such I didn't feel it was critical to operation.

I have never encountered a problem related to its not being operational, and I have opertated the car on some sub freezing days. Apparently for those conditions the intake (which is an aftermarket dual carb aluminum unit) get eough heat from its proximity to the exhaust to not display any problems. Now it you live where it gets cold, and stays cold all day, and will be driving you vehicle year around and depending on it for daily trasportation, the yea! go ahead and fix it to do its job.

I have also seen some cars ad trucks where it is cotrolled by a cable, lke the choke and can be set and adjusted from the cab. So if it moves freely, you might want to consider fabricating something like that.

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It's probably not worth considering since we are not talking about headers on a high performance motor, but in my case where I do not have a plate at all, I wonder how much turbulence is created by exhaust gases constantly swirling in the intake chamber not to mention the increased heat.

Dan

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Anyone has a pic or drawning showing this ""when attaching the spring and counterweight be sure to wrap the spring the correct number of turns and in a counterclockwise direction.It should be wrapped 335 degrees.Also check the valve alignment to the counterweight.When the counterweight is a 12 o'clock the valve is closed(or in the up position),diverting hot gas into the intake manifold heat chamber.When the counterweight is in the 3 o'clock position,the valve should be open,allowing the exhaust gas to pass straight through the manifold to the exhaust system"".:confused:

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go here and read through the procedur there hopefully it will answer you question.

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html

The spring pulls the counter weight and flap in the cold postion flap verticle. when the spring heats up from the mainfold it relaxes, allowing the flap to move to the horizontal position. When the car cools off, the spring once again pulls the flap into the verical position. Since thisis the default postiton, thisis why the flap get stuck inthe vertical position and gets stuck there through disuse.

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Anyone has a pic or drawning showing this ""when attaching the spring and counterweight be sure to wrap the spring the correct number of turns and in a counterclockwise direction.It should be wrapped 335 degrees.Also check the valve alignment to the counterweight.When the counterweight is a 12 o'clock the valve is closed(or in the up position),diverting hot gas into the intake manifold heat chamber.When the counterweight is in the 3 o'clock position,the valve should be open,allowing the exhaust gas to pass straight through the manifold to the exhaust system"".:confused:

Today I found this interest pic about heat riser in my papers.

post-265-13585352562903_thumb.jpg

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I agree if your truck is going to be a fair-weather driver, the heat riser is not needed. Mine never existed when I took it apart. The guts were 86'd long ago and the shaft holes plugged. There's a metal plate sanwiched between the manifolds, with a gasket, that seals the opening.

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