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Question about pressure plate


Joe Flanagan

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Is it advisable to simply replace this part or just have it refaced? I imagine the springs on it could weaken with time and I read somewhere that it's a good idea to replace disc, throwout bearing, and pressure plate all at once. What have you guys done? Just for the record, I looked at the contact surface of mine and it looks pretty good, at least to the naked eye. Disc doesn't look bad, either. Of course I'd hate to have everything installed and then have to go back in again.

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Presure plates are pretty robust. I would think unless you see some visibly broken springs and or very worn fingers where they meet the throwout bearing, and no gauling or visible hot spot discoleratio on the clamoig surface, you wold be good to go with the old one. Same with the disc. If the friction material is in good shape and has a good thickness,and not glazed or worn unenenly, and no bunged up splines, don't see why you can' reuse it. Unless of course you are gonna be doing a lot of burn outs and street racing..............

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If you have the means to check this item for runout and it be less than the acceptable minimum as is the same with the flywheel...no signs of blue hardened spots or checked surface area..and you know there was no chatter prior to disassembly..you may very well get by with putting it back in..

The package deal of the clutch cover(pressure plate), disc and bearing is an assurance that all is well and good the first time. The serivce industry makes no money on a "redo" and to ensure the car goes out with these three items is insurance that it will not be back. As thier labor is as time involved as your's and myabe you are not attuned to the fast pace these guys work as most get percentage of straight labor you time may be a bit more doing the job. That said, should there be a problem after the use of the old parts are you prepared to properly diagnois the failing or out of tolerance item and prepared to pull the transmission to redo this job? That is the question one must ask..often in an involved procedure it is false economy to reuse some parts..these happen to fall in that catagory. Item four of the basic set most time not serivced by the remanufactuer of the kit is the pilot bushing..these can and will enlongate or wallow a bit larger if you will and lead to vibrations and if not properly lubricated on install will squeal like a stick pig..do not overlook this either.

Edited by Tim Adams
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Joe,

It's up to you in the end. But.....when I had my engine out for the rebuild, I replaced the whole clutch. Prior to the engine rebuild the clutch seemed to work fine. But.........I didn't know how old it was, so.......replaced the whole thing. Did that so I wouldn't have to drop the clutch anytime soon. Should last me now as long as I'm able to drive the car.

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Joe,

i contact the Tennesse clutch rebuilder and he quted me a price of $70 to rebuild me presure plate and clutch plate. This just makes sence when you have pulled the trans down and out and the PP and clutch. For htis prices of knowing that i have a matched set and everyhting is new then the minimal cost out weighs the though of even putting in the used items again.

If the units had very few miles on them and if i new that going in then I would reuse but my opinion is to replace and then you know this is a good item that shoudl not have to be looked at for a long time.

Rich Hartung

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More time then not these two items are rebuilt. I put a rebuilt PP and clutch plate in my 39 Desoto15 years ago and do not have an issues. The pp is taken apart and they install new springs and reface the plate and then adjust the fingers so that they are all even when you press the clutch pedal. On the clutch disk they also check the springs in the unit and then remove and replace the two clutch disks and make sure it is straight. When you go to have an alternator replaced in a modern car you are more often getting a rebuilt item.

Contact Tennesee Clutch and Supply 800-262-5882 1995 Nolensville Rd, NAshville, TN 37211 ask for randy. They quoted me a price of 70 to rebuild my Borg and Beck units. These are a very standard item for them. even with shipping to and from it still might be cheaper than getting from NAPA. They might even beable to press on a new bearing for the Throwout unit. Call around in your area there might even be a rebuild shop that might even match their cost and then you have a local supplier. To insure that you are getting you old unit back you might want to mark the unit with a stamp or some paint.

Rich Hartung

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Joe,

Actually, I said I installed a new clutch. But.........it was really a rebuilt one from Ft. Wayne Clutch, Ft. Wayne, IN. With the shipping involved added, I think the total cost was about $120 when I did mine in 1999. I really didn't deal direct with them, but you can. I just took my old clutch to a local rebuild shop, and that's who did their rebuilds, so they sent it in for me. So.....guess I may have paid a little extra for that, in that $120 too. I did buy the throw out bearing locally from NAPA.

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Look in the yellow pages under trucks for axel, brake and clutch rebuilders, also a truck spring shop. Most do brakes and axel alighments. They are a good source of information for brake and clutch rebuilders, driveline rebuilders and custom driveshaft makers. I would think Alexandria Va. would be large enough city to have several rebuilders and truck axel alignment shops.

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Thanks, Rich. Just using Bernbaum's website as a guide, a new clutch disc and pressure plate cost about $200. Do you have any idea how dependable rebuilt units are? I was about to contact my local NAPA because then there won't be the added shipping cost.

Joe;

Use these folks and you cant go wrong. I did about thirty thousand miles ago.

The price was right too.

9-8-0421.jpg

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