Another start

[Tony WestOZ]

Well after nearly two years of not putting a hand to the Dodge, time has come to start on it again.

As I pull it down I thought I would try and show some of the differences between the Australian built Pilothouse trucks and other builds.

Our trucks had the 25" long block.

From what I can see the engine mount bracket bolts on to the chassis in the same place as the US ones without having the extended feet I have seem added to some to make the 25" block fit. Some measuring will be required here.

The radiator is where I can see some differences.

The radiator side mounting plates are a lot shorter. This means the radiator sites further in the nose.

A big difference is the steering.

In 53 when these trucks where fully built in Australia and not Canadian imports, the steering received some big changes.

The engine out.

This is a NOS engine. 50 years old and from what I can see only test run.

It will be stripped and all seals and gaskets replaced.

When I took the nose section off I set it up on some trolleys.I will be making up some frame work to better support the guards and also support the hood so I can lift and refit the nose section as one piece.

Hopefully, health and other issues are finally over with and this is not another false start with this project.

Will post some more as I go.

[Merle Coggins]

Good to hear that you're feeling good enough to get back at it.

Thanks for the pics. It is interesting to see how they did things down there. It's interesting seeing a panel truck with side windows. Does it have rear seats like a Suburban, or is it more like a bus?

I agree that the front engine mount looks just like mine with a 23" engine. I wonder if that front cross member is 2" farther forward to accomodate it.

I also find the steering setup interesting. What is the reasoning to put the steering box so far forward? Is there no room back near the rear of the engine, like ours are on the left side? As I recall one of the biggest sales features of the Pilot House trucks was the change from fore/aft steering linkage to a cross linkage system to eliminate bump steer. This arrangement seems to go back to the previous setup.

Merle

[Dale Uhrich]

did you weld over the fender ribbets? I don't see any

[greg g]

Notice the exhaust manifold is quite different. Is the outlet placement dictated by needing to clear some right side control items?

Was wondering why we hadn't heard from you in a while. good health ad good luck with your build.

[Bob_Koch]

Good feeling to finally get back working on a truck isn't it. Glad you're able to do it and sounds like you're feeling better. The outside of the truck looks to be in good shape. Should be quite nice looking when finished. Thanks for sharing the differences. Something about the Aussie trucks I've always liked.

[Tony WestOZ]

Good to hear that you're feeling good enough to get back at it.

Thanks for the pics. It is interesting to see how they did things down there. It's interesting seeing a panel truck with side windows. Does it have rear seats like a Suburban, or is it more like a bus?

I agree that the front engine mount looks just like mine with a 23" engine. I wonder if that front cross member is 2" farther forward to accomodate it.

I also find the steering setup interesting. What is the reasoning to put the steering box so far forward? Is there no room back near the rear of the engine, like ours are on the left side? As I recall one of the biggest sales features of the Pilot House trucks was the change from fore/aft steering linkage to a cross linkage system to eliminate bump steer. This arrangement seems to go back to the previous setup.

Merle

Mine seams to have been a single front (driver) seat model. You could also order two single front seats or a bench seat from Chrysler Australia. If you wanted another setup the dealer usually took care of it.

With the steering set up, from 48 to 52 the steering here was a mirror image of what you had over there. 53 that changed and I think you will find that Dodge US discontinued the cross over system on the C models in 54 in favor of the fore aft system.

did you weld over the fender ribbets? I don't see any

Yes I replaced that section when I repaired the guards all those years ago.

Now I am thinking of re-doing it to be original.

Notice the exhaust manifold is quite different. Is the outlet placement dictated by needing to clear some right side control items?

Was wondering why we hadn't heard from you in a while. good health ad good luck with your build.

I think you are right. The Pilothouse trucks here always had the exhaust coming out further to the front. Cluch pedal the main problem. Hard to see in the pics so far but there is also another bend in the inlet and exhaust manifolds at the rear to clear the pedal. It all gets pretty tight down there.

Good feeling to finally get back working on a truck isn't it. Glad you're able to do it and sounds like you're feeling better. The outside of the truck looks to be in good shape. Should be quite nice looking when finished. Thanks for sharing the differences. Something about the Aussie trucks I've always liked.

Your right Bob is very good feeling to be back working on it again.

[Tony WestOZ]

Well engine is stripped down,

and a few measurements taken,

Mostly it looks pretty good.

Everything is in spec.

There is some water markes on the pistons and bores but with a light hone they will be ok.

Thought the engine has no use time has caused some problems.

There is a light coating of surface rust on most parts, it will take time to clean it up.

[Tony WestOZ]

Couple of areas need attention.

Rear main seal. somthing has got in there.

Pulled all the plugs out of the oil galleries. Will need the rifle kit treatment.

It does not matter how old or used these engines are there is always one. At least its not a head bolt.

[Andydodge]

Tony, I know it will add to the cost but I'd be getting the engine boiled out/chemically cleaned........by the time you pull it down enough to allow you to hit it with something to clean the rust stains etc off and the internal rusting you'd be ahead getting it boiled out.............my 2cents worth.........regards, andyd

[Tony WestOZ]

Tony, I know it will add to the cost but I'd be getting the engine boiled out/chemically cleaned........by the time you pull it down enough to allow you to hit it with something to clean the rust stains etc off and the internal rusting you'd be ahead getting it boiled out.............my 2cents worth.........regards, andyd

Andy,

After all the prep work is done the block is going out to get 10 thou off the top, so before this is done it will get the chemical treatment.

Regardless of the chemical and boiling treatment I still run the rifle cleaner down all the holes and oil galleries. I have had blocks came back before and still have junk in the lines.

Spent a little time going around the block with the die grinder.

Just a bit of a look at the moment to see what needs some clean up latter on.

Also had a look in the ex and inlet ports. Couple of lumps ground off. Will be spending some more time on the ports latter. (need to get all the HP I can)

[Tony WestOZ]

How do you guys get the pics to form in a line down the bottom of the post and then clip on to expand if you want.

[48Dodger]

When you post...go down to to the bottom of the page. Look inside the box labeled "addtional options". click on "manage attachments".....from that point you can download from your computer. A seperate window will appear during the download and show you the limitations on the options for download. When you finish, you'll see a highlighted list of attachments in the "addtional options" box. Click on the "preview post" and check you downloads. Then post...ta da.

In my opinion, the photo link pictures are better, but some guy's computers take awhile and it causes a bit of frustration.

Really enjoying your project!

48D