yes...another T5 question

[fstfish66]

Same basic trans as the Dakota 5-speed...

I make adapters for the Dak unit if anyone has a need.

.

all made by new process,,same company that made the chrysler 4 speeds of the 60s and 70s

[49DODGEBOY]

thought I,d post some info: I,m using the Curtis kit, all going well. Since I,m trying to keep it a simple job and use as much factory stuff as I can.

I decided to machine both the bearing retainer and the i.d. of the throwout bearing collar. Just measured the difference and took 1/2 off 1 and 1/2 off the other. Should be installing the week between x-mas and New Year.

Anyone know the size and thread pitch of the T5 shifter knob?

[Don Coatney]

I decided to machine both the bearing retainer and the i.d. of the throwout bearing collar. Just measured the difference and took 1/2 off 1 and 1/2 off the other.

I did the same.

[49DODGEBOY]

ok guys, here is a major learning experience for me, and yes I feel like a big IDIOT! Got under my car today to pull the tranny and realized I had a Gyromatic. Now before you all chastize me, I was told it was a three speed, it has a shifter on the column, a clutch pedal etc and hell I,ve been driving it like it was a three speed. Yes this is my first older Mopar and I really don't even know how the Gyromatic works.

Question now is, how does this affect the t5 swap for me, It looks like the big difference is the shaft length. Obviously the shaft on the Gyro is real long, about 11.5", the t5 I have is around 7", I,m assuming I am going to have to change bellhousing, clutch fork assembly etc.

Don, your pics are wonderful, do you have a written thread on your swap?

yes, I get the idiot of the day award.....

[martybose]

Sounds like you need the manual shift bellhousing, along with a flywheel and pressure plate from same. You might also need some clutch linkage pieces as well.

Marty

[Don Coatney]

You should contact Paul Curtis and get his recommendation. My install was totally different as I used a Plymouth bell housing with no fluid drive.

[49DODGEBOY]

Sounds like you need the manual shift bellhousing, along with a flywheel and pressure plate from same. You might also need some clutch linkage pieces as well.

Marty

forunately I have all those pcs out of a 51, but the gyro'd bellhousing is also the rear engine mount.

Should,nt the Gyro have an electronic solinoid on it?

[james curl]

I put a Dodge fluid drive engine in my 48 P-15 and I used the plymouth bellhousing, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. If you can find someone parting out a P-15 then you might be able to the parts you need, but you will have a problem with the rear crossmember that the bellhousing mounts to. It would be best if you could move the original crossmember foward. I do not know of anyone here on the forum who has converted a fluid drive Dodge to a standard dry clutch car with the plymouth parts but if there is maybe they will chime in to help you out.

[49DODGEBOY]

I put a Dodge fluid drive engine in my 48 P-15 and I used the plymouth bellhousing, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. If you can find someone parting out a P-15 then you might be able to the parts you need, but you will have a problem with the rear crossmember that the bellhousing mounts to. It would be best if you could move the original crossmember foward. I do not know of anyone here on the forum who has converted a fluid drive Dodge to a standard dry clutch car with the plymouth parts but if there is maybe they will chime in to help you out.

1st, thx for all the input.

I have the bellhousing, flywheel, plate. diaphram from a 51 Plymouth.

It looks like my only hickup as I see it now is the mounting for the clutch linkage, the current linkage mounts on the gyro bell-housing, the Ply bellhouseing has no such mntg area.

It also looks like there are 2 holes in the frame rail in front of the current cross member, looks like I could move it up and my measurements show a perfect move for the Ply bellhousing mounts.

So I,m getting close.

[james curl]

Look on the left lower side of your engine block , you should find two threaded holes for the ball bracket to bolt to. You will need the bracket with the short curved arm with the ball on the end to mount your cross shaft to. I do not have any clear pictures of this area to show you but Don Coatney might have a clear photo of all that you will need.

[49DODGEBOY]

Look on the left lower side of your engine block , you should find two threaded holes for the ball bracket to bolt to. You will need the bracket with the short curved arm with the ball on the end to mount your cross shaft to. I do not have any clear pictures of this area to show you but Don Coatney might have a clear photo of all that you will need.

as usual, Don has a great pics of the clutch linkage.

Don, do you remember the input shaft lenth on your t5?

[Young Ed]

My first round of questions. I have a GM clutch disk for the T5 that measures 9 inches across. Does this mean to use this I need a 9 in pressure plate? Or does a 9 or 10 in clutch refer to some other measurement? Also the current 3spd was held on with coarse thread bolts(same thread as a head bolt) but the T5 was held onto its bellhousing with metric bolts that have a fairly fine thread. So coarse or fine thread for the holes I need to drill and tap?

[BeBop138]

My first round of questions. I have a GM clutch disk for the T5 that measures 9 inches across. Does this mean to use this I need a 9 in pressure plate? Or does a 9 or 10 in clutch refer to some other measurement? Also the current 3spd was held on with coarse thread bolts(same thread as a head bolt) but the T5 was held onto its bellhousing with metric bolts that have a fairly fine thread. So coarse or fine thread for the holes I need to drill and tap?

You are using the stock bell with adapter?I would assume your old bolts to mount adapter and the correct bolts to mount tranny to adapter. Didn`t your adapter come with the bolts?Are you using your old pressure plate and flywheel? What did your old clutch disc measure? This is getting long:eek:----call me on my cell and we can go over this.......612-207-5853.......Lee

[Young Ed]

Its for a truck. No adaptor plate needed. You have to drill 4 new bolt holes to match up to the T5.

[james curl]

Most people just drill them out and use the original bolts on chevrolets, you may have to go to a smaller diameter bolt than your original transmission bolts, as I do not know the diammeter of the original MoPar bolts.

[Don Coatney]

as usual, Don has a great pics of the clutch linkage.

Don, do you remember the input shaft lenth on your t5?

Just took this fresh picture of my spare T-5

[Don Coatney]

So coarse or fine thread for the holes I need to drill and tap?

I used socket head cap screws. If I recall they are 3/8" course thread.

[Young Ed]

I thought of this last night. The original threads that held up the two transmissions were probably based more on the bellhousing material that the threads were in. Even though the T5 is lighter it was connected to a aluminum bell instead of cast. So course thread is what I'm going with. I'm going to try and rig up a way to put my giant bellhousing under Dads drill press so I get straight holes. Already bought my transfer punches to get the holes in the right spots.

[49DODGEBOY]

Just took this fresh picture of my spare T-5

thx Don for your time, do you happen to know if the 4 hole flywheel will bolt up to the 8 hole crank? I,ve been told yes but want to make sure.

Rich

[49DODGEBOY]

disregard Don, I found an old post from 2008 from you stating that it will, looks like I have all the parts to make it work, just more work than I was hoping for. Pays to do the research, wish I would have done it earlier.

Guess I,m gettn old and forgetfull..

[Don Coatney]

disregard Don, I found an old post from 2008 from you stating that it will, looks like I have all the parts to make it work, just more work than I was hoping for. Pays to do the research, wish I would have done it earlier.

Guess I,m gettn old and forgetfull..

It will bolt up but it will only bolt up one way. The holes are not symetrical.

I searched and found special sholder bolts when I did my setup. I have several spares. If you need some send me your address.

[49DODGEBOY]

It will bolt up but it will only bolt up one way. The holes are not symetrical.

I searched and found special sholder bolts when I did my setup. I have several spares. If you need some send me your address.

Thx for the offer Don, I,m will track them down locally.

[49DODGEBOY]

Still learning:

So after all is said and done, I have a "Fluid-drive". IE torque converter/clutch with a standard 3-spd behind it. Not fun removing the converter in the car!

Shaft on the 3-spd is 11.5" long with the pilot bearing "inside" the torque converter. S-10 T5 shaft is 6.5". Bell housing for Fluiddrive is 13"

bellhousing for standard 3-spd is 8".

Bottom line: diff between shafts is 5", diff between bellhousings is 5"

by the numbers using the Coatney pilot style, all should work.

Move up the crossmember, re-configure the clutch linkage.

guess I,ll find out.

[greg g]

The fluid connection is not a torque converter, it's only a fluid connection, no multiplication of force like with an automatic. It is basically one fan turning another through fluid rather than air.

Good luck, keep us posted.

[Young Ed]

I would think with an adequate supply of plymouth parts this conversion shouldn't be too bad.